Rear trailing arms replacement guide DIY

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by 911monty

Excellent writeup Steve!! Well documented and Great insight even FAQs! Well done sir. After seeing your bushing stress test I do have to ask if you have compared the bushing hardness between the 9x6 and 9x7 parts?

I have not and wouldn't know how to start. Perhaps this hardness is a key difference and is why some say the 987 part is better...?

Edit: these are monoballs and not a regular bushing. I discovered tonight that if I put a small bolt in I can get it to move. There is more resistance than my old shot ones that flopped around however. I am guessing they work in a different way and the resistance is different...

[911monty]

Originally Posted by steved0x

I have not and wouldn't know how to start. Perhaps this hardness is a key difference and is why some say the 987 part is better...?

Edit: these are monoballs and not a regular bushing. I discovered tonight that if I put a small bolt in I can get it to move. There is more resistance than my old shot ones that flopped around however. I am guessing they work in a different way and the resistance is different...

Well don't know if it's too late, but I believe you have both a 986 and a 987 arm? While it would be subjective is it possible to compare the deflection resistance between the two using a test similar to your bolt test? I'm kinda wondering if this monobail is the difference also.

Steve; Just went over your writeup again and noticed something I hadn't noticed on the original read. The bolt you identified as being upside down,IS. The reason it is installed with the nut on bottom is so that if the nut were to fall off, the bolt would still be in place. With nut on top if nut falls off bolt also falls out.

[lkchris]

[QUOTE=911monty;479191The reason it is installed with the nut on bottom is so that if the nut were to fall off, the bolt would still be in place. With nut on top if nut falls off bolt also falls out.[/QUOTE]

Theory is correct, but nevertheless factory installs them with nut on top … and plenty of thread locker to keep it from coming loose.

New factory bolts do not arrive with pre installed thread locker, so apply some when replacing.

There is factory applied thread locker on the front end bolt, too. Theory would have it, you chase the threads on captive nut to remove old sealant first.

I’d use new nuts and bolts for this job. Just good practice and also saves cleaning off old thread locker.