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Old 03-22-2015, 05:12 PM   #1
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Easy way to change the expansion tank

I tackled the expansion tank replacement this afternoon, and was able to knock it out in about 45 minutes(far from the Pelican 4 hour estimate). I found that if you cut part number 15(see image below) in half you only need to remove one hose in the engine bay which you can remove from the engine bay (so nothing needs to be done under the car).


Stu



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Old 03-22-2015, 06:35 PM   #2
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What did you use to cut it?
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:44 AM   #3
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Expansion tank replacement.

1.Same question as put by REDBOXS and could you add a drawing of the cutting pattern ?
2. Did you re-use this part or did install a new one ?

Tx

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Old 03-27-2015, 02:50 AM   #4
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I'm all ears.
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Old 03-27-2015, 04:54 AM   #5
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One concern I would have with this procedure would be how to prevent the plastic debris from the cutting process from getting into the cooling system. Such material would have the same basic effect as water pump impeller bits if circulated in the cooling system.
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:46 PM   #6
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I want to hear how you did this

I did mine and it took about 3 hours with a friend.
Be careful not to crack the oil fill tube on the engine compartment side. I cracked mine as it got hard and brittle from years of heat exposure. Im not talking about the flex hose Im talking about the the part that the flex hose connects to.

Last edited by Specwar; 03-31-2015 at 05:29 PM. Reason: spelling and additions
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Old 04-22-2015, 09:54 AM   #7
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I need to do mine..... A few questions I've looked at lots of photos of the bottle from all angles, can someone explain why the entire assembly doesn't simply slide/lift into the boot side of the bulkhead with the plastic manifold (when all the bolts are removed)?? with all the hoses still connected, why would I need to unclip the hoses on the engine side when there are clips & separate hoses on the boot side and it looks like the oil filler hose detaches from the underside of the bottle.
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Old 04-23-2015, 07:09 AM   #8
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It's too tight on the engine side to pull into the rear trunk, at least with the hose on the passenger side still connected. Once that one's loose, you can do it, with some effort.

With respect to the OP's method of cutting the part, somehow that doesn't sit right with me. Esp. when there's a way to do it without having to butcher parts that stay in the car.

For example, My DIY:

Another coolant tank replacement DIY
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Old 08-15-2015, 07:40 AM   #9
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Just completed the coolant tank replacement for a 97 Boxster with 58,000 miles. I did a similar process as Truegearhead, except I was able to pull the hoses out into the trunk just enough to reach the clamps with a 45 degree needle nose plier. It would have helped to have an assistant push on the hoses from inside the trunk area. Then I removed the hoses going from the manifold to the tank and cut out the connectors from the plastic manifold (see pics). I used a small hacksaw and an X-ACTO craft saw (pic) to cut the plastic, then sanded down the sharp edges. I did not use or need the cable clamp pliers. Even with the connectors cut, it was still a PITA to attach to hoses coming from engine area - need to pull on hose, insert connector and tighten screw clamp. I used screw type clamps to reattach the hoses to both sides of the connectors. Then I cut the rubber gasket so it would fit around the hoses. Although probably not necessary, I taped the gasket to the body and covered the opening with duct tape.

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Old 08-15-2015, 10:41 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesp View Post
I'm all ears.
That's what Ross Perot said

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