audio guys: is an output converter needed?

[jeepdad]

Buying a new receiver and dash speakers thru Crutchfield and they're recommending this:

Scosche SLC4 Line Output Converter Convert speaker connections to line-level preamp connections in mobile audio applications at Crutchfield.com

Is it necessary? I'm keeping the door subs, factory amp and am just replacing the dash speakers with Alpines. I may run a subwoofer line behind the passenger seat for eventual installation of a self-powered sub.

[particlewave]

Probably not. What head unit are you planning on getting?

What you should do is power the dash and door speakers directly off of the new receiver/HU because it will most likely be more powerful than that old OEM amp (not sure what you have). It doesn't make sense to drop the output then amplify it again unless your amp puts out more than 40-50 watts per channel RMS, which is what most HUs put out these days.

My sound improved dratically by running my infinity dash and door speakers straight off of the HU. Louder and clearer.
My 250 watt amp is for the 8" Kicker sub only (most HUs come with subwoofer pre-amp line outs so no line drop needed there).

[Smallblock454]

Well, the question is how you want to drive the self powered sub. I think the stock radio doesn't have a sub out. If your after market radio has a sub out, no problems.

If you don't have a sub out (chinch) you have to use the speaker outs. In this case the self powered subs needs a high gain in, or you'll need a high gain to low gain adapter as showed.

[jeepdad]

I am looking at this unit:

Blaupunkt Adelaide 130 Digital media receiver at Crutchfield.com

But if I'm going to bypass the factory amp and run dash and doors directly from the receiver, I will need to run new wires, correct?

[newBgeek]

Originally Posted by jeepdad

I am looking at this unit:

Blaupunkt Adelaide 130 Digital media receiver at Crutchfield.com

But if I'm going to bypass the factory amp and run dash and doors directly from the receiver, I will need to run new wires, correct?

If you are just going to replace the head unit, then a wiring kit is probably the simplest solution. I'm using the BEST BHA1787 kit like this but you can get similar kits from Crutchfield or any audio store. Crutchfield includes the adapters if you buy the head unit from them. It will use your car's existing wiring including your existing amp. One thing I noted is that all 4 of the RCA cables need to be plugged in or you will get a high frequency ground loop feedback. Your chosen head unit only has 2 so you will need some Y-adaptors. Also the red and yellow wires are reversed on my kit. Normally yellow is constant 12V and red is switched, but using this adapter, red is the constant power and yellow is switched.

[juiced99ws6]

Originally Posted by jeepdad

I am looking at this unit:

Blaupunkt Adelaide 130 Digital media receiver at Crutchfield.com

But if I'm going to bypass the factory amp and run dash and doors directly from the receiver, I will need to run new wires, correct?

No, you will not need to run new wires and I HIGHLY recommend bypassing the stock amp. If you are good with wiring you will see exactly what needs done with you open everything up. On the amp bypass just remove the amp and you will have two separate connectors. One with thicker wires and one with thinner. One plug will have 8 wires and I believe 11 or so in the other. Cut the plugs off and mate up the wires from the plug that had 8 with the wires from the other plug of same color. You will have 2 or three wires left after your 8 splices, just cap and stow them. They were just for power remote and ground on your amp.

Wires behind dash are a tad trickier but not much. You have a separate connector that used to connect for your amp output, it was used instead of traditional RCAs. Those wires are the other end of the wires you spliced for the amp bypass. Only difference is there should be either 5 or 6, i cant remember. You will have at least 4 separate wires that are for the high side, or positive, for each speaker. You will have either 1 wire that splits off to 4 or 2 that split off to four (been a little while) and those are for your negatives. As long as you get all the positives right and wired to your aftermarket stereo harness you can splice all the negatives together for the low side and will work like a champ.

You should also replace your door speakers because those were made to be a Subwoofer only and now will be getting full range signal. Replace those and you will have 4 speakers MUCH louder and clearer than before. Will take a couple hours and just a few bucks in wiring materials plus speakers and head unit and you will love it.

[jeepdad]

Originally Posted by juiced99ws6

No, you will not need to run new wires and I HIGHLY recommend bypassing the stock amp. If you are good with wiring you will see exactly what needs done with you open everything up. On the amp bypass just remove the amp and you will have two separate connectors. One with thicker wires and one with thinner. One plug will have 8 wires and I believe 11 or so in the other. Cut the plugs off and mate up the wires from the plug that had 8 with the wires from the other plug of same color. You will have 2 or three wires left after your 8 splices, just cap and stow them. They were just for power remote and ground on your amp.

Wires behind dash are a tad trickier but not much. You have a separate connector that used to connect for your amp output, it was used instead of traditional RCAs. Those wires are the other end of the wires you spliced for the amp bypass. Only difference is there should be either 5 or 6, i cant remember. You will have at least 4 separate wires that are for the high side, or positive, for each speaker. You will have either 1 wire that splits off to 4 or 2 that split off to four (been a little while) and those are for your negatives. As long as you get all the positives right and wired to your aftermarket stereo harness you can splice all the negatives together for the low side and will work like a champ.

You should also replace your door speakers because those were made to be a Subwoofer only and now will be getting full range signal. Replace those and you will have 4 speakers MUCH louder and clearer than before. Will take a couple hours and just a few bucks in wiring materials plus speakers and head unit and you will love it.

Thank you. This is very helpful.

[Smallblock454]

Originally Posted by juiced99ws6

No, you will not need to run new wires and I HIGHLY recommend bypassing the stock amp. If you are good with wiring you will see exactly what needs done with you open everything up. On the amp bypass just remove the amp and you will have two separate connectors. One with thicker wires and one with thinner. One plug will have 8 wires and I believe 11 or so in the other. Cut the plugs off and mate up the wires from the plug that had 8 with the wires from the other plug of same color. You will have 2 or three wires left after your 8 splices, just cap and stow them. They were just for power remote and ground on your amp.

Wires behind dash are a tad trickier but not much. You have a separate connector that used to connect for your amp output, it was used instead of traditional RCAs. Those wires are the other end of the wires you spliced for the amp bypass. Only difference is there should be either 5 or 6, i cant remember. You will have at least 4 separate wires that are for the high side, or positive, for each speaker. You will have either 1 wire that splits off to 4 or 2 that split off to four (been a little while) and those are for your negatives. As long as you get all the positives right and wired to your aftermarket stereo harness you can splice all the negatives together for the low side and will work like a champ.

You should also replace your door speakers because those were made to be a Subwoofer only and now will be getting full range signal. Replace those and you will have 4 speakers MUCH louder and clearer than before. Will take a couple hours and just a few bucks in wiring materials plus speakers and head unit and you will love it.

Well, from an audiphile pont of view i would say it's a NO GO.

Yes you can put full range speakers in the doors and keep the stock speakers in the dash board. But that will sound indifferent. The stage moves from the dasboard down to the knees. Which is a no go for people that love music and a correct staging.

If you cut a OEM harness. Please think about that you can never build your car back to OEM standard without changing the complete harness. This might be OK for daily rollers. But not for people who like to keep their car original.

So i would recommend to think 5 minutes what to do before you start doing anything.

Just my 2 cents.

Regards from germany
Markus

[BRAN]

Is there a compact (lightweight) but powerfull car audio amplifier solution with Bluetooth/A2DP (Audio-Streaming) on the market?

That would be all I need for an iPad/iPhone solution.

[juiced99ws6]

Originally Posted by Smallblock454

Well, from an audiphile pont of view i would say it's a NO GO.

Yes you can put full range speakers in the doors and keep the stock speakers in the dash board. But that will sound indifferent. The stage moves from the dasboard down to the knees. Which is a no go for people that love music and a correct staging.

If you cut a OEM harness. Please think about that you can never build your car back to OEM standard without changing the complete harness. This might be OK for daily rollers. But not for people who like to keep their car original.

So i would recommend to think 5 minutes what to do before you start doing anything.

Just my 2 cents.

Regards from germany
Markus

I never said to keep the stock dash speakers. What i gathered from his original post was that he intended on adding new dash speakers, head unit, and powered woofer. I was saying in addition to do the door speakers as well since he was doing the others... that would completely refresh the entire audio system with minimal work.

Yes, once you cut wires you are deviating from the original factory stereo. If the sale of a porsche boxster comes down to every single wire in the car being untouched then i can see your point but he is obviously modifying the dash speaker mounts and to bypass the amp you can either just leave it useless in the front or just remove and stow wires for future use for a true hardcore enthusiast. If this route is take that means running all new wires through the car..... those are the options.