audio guys: is an output converter needed?
Buying a new receiver and dash speakers thru Crutchfield and they're recommending this:
Scosche SLC4 Line Output Converter Convert speaker connections to line-level preamp connections in mobile audio applications at Crutchfield.com Is it necessary? I'm keeping the door subs, factory amp and am just replacing the dash speakers with Alpines. I may run a subwoofer line behind the passenger seat for eventual installation of a self-powered sub. |
Probably not. What head unit are you planning on getting?
What you should do is power the dash and door speakers directly off of the new receiver/HU because it will most likely be more powerful than that old OEM amp (not sure what you have). It doesn't make sense to drop the output then amplify it again unless your amp puts out more than 40-50 watts per channel RMS, which is what most HUs put out these days. My sound improved dratically by running my infinity dash and door speakers straight off of the HU. Louder and clearer. ;) My 250 watt amp is for the 8" Kicker sub only (most HUs come with subwoofer pre-amp line outs so no line drop needed there). |
Well, the question is how you want to drive the self powered sub. I think the stock radio doesn't have a sub out. If your after market radio has a sub out, no problems.
If you don't have a sub out (chinch) you have to use the speaker outs. In this case the self powered subs needs a high gain in, or you'll need a high gain to low gain adapter as showed. |
I am looking at this unit:
Blaupunkt Adelaide 130 Digital media receiver at Crutchfield.com But if I'm going to bypass the factory amp and run dash and doors directly from the receiver, I will need to run new wires, correct? |
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Wires behind dash are a tad trickier but not much. You have a separate connector that used to connect for your amp output, it was used instead of traditional RCAs. Those wires are the other end of the wires you spliced for the amp bypass. Only difference is there should be either 5 or 6, i cant remember. You will have at least 4 separate wires that are for the high side, or positive, for each speaker. You will have either 1 wire that splits off to 4 or 2 that split off to four (been a little while) and those are for your negatives. As long as you get all the positives right and wired to your aftermarket stereo harness you can splice all the negatives together for the low side and will work like a champ. You should also replace your door speakers because those were made to be a Subwoofer only and now will be getting full range signal. Replace those and you will have 4 speakers MUCH louder and clearer than before. Will take a couple hours and just a few bucks in wiring materials plus speakers and head unit and you will love it. |
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Yes you can put full range speakers in the doors and keep the stock speakers in the dash board. But that will sound indifferent. The stage moves from the dasboard down to the knees. Which is a no go for people that love music and a correct staging. If you cut a OEM harness. Please think about that you can never build your car back to OEM standard without changing the complete harness. This might be OK for daily rollers. But not for people who like to keep their car original. So i would recommend to think 5 minutes what to do before you start doing anything. ;) Just my 2 cents. Regards from germany Markus |
Is there a compact (lightweight) but powerfull car audio amplifier solution with Bluetooth/A2DP (Audio-Streaming) on the market?
That would be all I need for an iPad/iPhone solution. |
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Yes, once you cut wires you are deviating from the original factory stereo. If the sale of a porsche boxster comes down to every single wire in the car being untouched then i can see your point but he is obviously modifying the dash speaker mounts and to bypass the amp you can either just leave it useless in the front or just remove and stow wires for future use for a true hardcore enthusiast. If this route is take that means running all new wires through the car..... those are the options. |
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