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Old 06-01-2014, 05:40 PM   #21
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Just ordered all the parts today. Should have everything by the end of next week and I'll build/install over next weekend

Arduino Nano clone from ebay $9
Rest of parts from DigKey $13

This will be my first Adruino project of what I expect to be several more.
Thanks Polaris, you instructions are great and thanks for the code.

Ill post how it goes after the install
Ok, I got it all wired and connected to the switch and harness
unfortunately it does not work. I get a clicking sound from both the relay and somewhere in the top. If I hold the switch, it clicks and the top moves in a very slow stepping manner

I did a minor change to the design, I used pins D7&8 instead of 8&9. I did change the definitions to reflect that.

I am not a programmer and this is the first time I have used an Arduino

any ideas?

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Old 06-01-2014, 05:49 PM   #22
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AutoTop DIY

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Ok, I got it all wired and connected to the switch and harness

unfortunately it does not work. I get a clicking sound from both the relay and somewhere in the top. If I hold the switch, it clicks and the top moves in a very slow stepping manner



I did a minor change to the design, I used pins D7&8 instead of 8&9. I did change the definitions to reflect that.



I am not a programmer and this is the first time I have used an Arduino



any ideas?

As a first attempt, check your wiring, specifically the 10k pulldown resistors on pin 7,8 be sure they're there and the connection is secure.

If you soldered the everything, sometimes a solder joint can look good but internally it's actually not making a good connection. By moving the wires during operation, you will see a change in operation if you have a bad connection.
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Last edited by Shehadehd; 06-01-2014 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 06-01-2014, 06:17 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Shehadehd View Post
As a first attempt, check your wiring, specifically the 10k pulldown resistors on pin 7,8 be sure they're there and the connection is secure.

If you soldered the everything, sometimes a solder joint can look good but internally it's actually not making a good connection. By moving the wires during operation, you will see a change in operation if you have a bad connection.
thanks for the fast reply

I should preface that that I have done a lot of soldering, I used to build and repair pro audio gear and soldered about a million XLR and multipin connectors.
In any case, I checked the pull down resistors, good connections
I tried the wiggle on all connections with no luck

In order to get any movement, I have to hold the button and instead of smooth operation, it is clicks and steps as it moves

Could it be a bad board?
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Old 06-01-2014, 06:26 PM   #24
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thanks for the fast reply

I should preface that that I have done a lot of soldering, I used to build and repair pro audio gear and soldered about a million XLR and multipin connectors.
In any case, I checked the pull down resistors, good connections
I tried the wiggle on all connections with no luck

In order to get any movement, I have to hold the button and instead of smooth operation, it is clicks and steps as it moves

Could it be a bad board?
More likely bad pins than a bad board. You can always try four different pins and see what happens. If both opening and closing the top acts the same, then maybe the transistors aren't working properly. Make sure you didn't wire them backwards... you might also want to check to see if the 1k resistor to the transistor is an acceptable value for the transistors you're using.
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Old 06-01-2014, 06:31 PM   #25
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More likely bad pins than a bad board. You can always try four different pins and see what happens. If both opening and closing the top acts the same, then maybe the transistors aren't working properly. Make sure you didn't wire them backwards... you might also want to check to see if the 1k resistor to the transistor is an acceptable value for the transistors you're using.
I used the exact transistor you spec'd and 1k resistor as you listed. In reviewing your parts list,you did mention that you thought it was a 1 k resistor. I have no idea how to check what value the transistor needs
I double checked the transistor wiring and it is correct

The clicking is both on open and close
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Old 06-01-2014, 06:38 PM   #26
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I used the exact transistor you spec'd and 1k resistor as you listed. In reviewing your parts list,you did mention that you thought it was a 1 k resistor. I have no idea how to check what value the transistor needs
I double checked the transistor wiring and it is correct

The clicking is both on open and close

Haha, I didn't write the thread. I can look through the transistor to see if it'll theoretically work but the OP got it working in his so it's probably fine. It looks like he gave a top down view of the transistor in the wiring diagram so be sure that you have the left most pin ( if you're holding the transistor with the curved side towards you) wired to the switch harness.
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Old 06-01-2014, 06:43 PM   #27
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Haha, I didn't write the thread. I can look through the transistor to see if it'll theoretically work but the OP got it working in his so it's probably fine. It looks like he gave a top down view of the transistor in the wiring diagram so be sure that you have the left most pin ( if you're holding the transistor with the curved side towards you) wired to the switch harness.
From what I can tell, it is wired correctly
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Old 06-01-2014, 06:49 PM   #28
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From what I can tell, it is wired correctly
hmm... give me a minute to take a look at the transistor. Is it possible to take a picture of your set-up? Also, is the relay that's clicking the one that's by the foot pedals?
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Old 06-01-2014, 06:52 PM   #29
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Transistor

It is simply a electronic switch, the 1K resistor is a current limiting device to protect the transistors from drawing too much current. It would help if the writer listed the EBC codes on the drawing. I will try to open this up a bit. The 1K resistors go to the Base of the transistor, it looks like the Emitter is grounded and the Collector supplies switched power to the harness. The Arduino can only handle a few milliamps of current so the transistors are used like electronic relays to trip the regular relay in the car.
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Old 06-01-2014, 06:54 PM   #30
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hmm... give me a minute to take a look at the transistor. Is it possible to take a picture of your set-up? Also, is the relay that's clicking the one that's by the foot pedals?
the relay clicking is the C top relay
I think it is the motors in the actual top I hear clicking

I can take a pic, but I don't know how much use it would be. I used a header connector with attached wires and soldered and heat shrunk all the connections
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Old 06-01-2014, 06:59 PM   #31
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E and C reversed

I bet you have the Emitter and the Collector reversed on the transistors, the Base is almost always in the middle
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:10 PM   #32
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I bet you have the Emitter and the Collector reversed on the transistors, the Base is almost always in the middle
I have already tried reversing the transistors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pdwight View Post
It is simply a electronic switch, the 1K resistor is a current limiting device to protect the transistors from drawing too much current. It would help if the writer listed the EBC codes on the drawing. I will try to open this up a bit. The 1K resistors go to the Base of the transistor, it looks like the Emitter is grounded and the Collector supplies switched power to the harness. The Arduino can only handle a few milliamps of current so the transistors are used like electronic relays to trip the regular relay in the car.

I did verify the pin out with the data sheet of the part
With the part I have the collector is grounded and emitter goes to harness
Is that wrong?
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:24 PM   #33
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It is simply a electronic switch, the 1K resistor is a current limiting device to protect the transistors from drawing too much current. It would help if the writer listed the EBC codes on the drawing. I will try to open this up a bit. The 1K resistors go to the Base of the transistor, it looks like the Emitter is grounded and the Collector supplies switched power to the harness. The Arduino can only handle a few milliamps of current so the transistors are used like electronic relays to trip the regular relay in the car.
I just wanted to make sure that the Base voltage was okay to put the transistor into a saturated state and that the resistor wasn't too small and causing the output pins on the board to overdrive or not providing enough base current for the collector current needed.
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:26 PM   #34
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Vom

Take a meter and see if the transistors switch ....
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:31 PM   #35
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good thread

I was going to build one of these, have a box of parts right here but cannot get the code to load in my module...any of them ?? Im using Nano modules BTW
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:39 PM   #36
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Take a meter and see if the transistors switch ....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shehadehd View Post
I just wanted to make sure that the Base voltage was okay to put the transistor into a saturated state and that the resistor wasn't too small and causing the output pins on the board to overdrive or not providing enough base current for the collector current needed.
you guys are great and thanks for your help

I'm gonna breadboard it this week and see if it is switching correctly

I'll post an update once I have a chance to test it

I put everything back to stock for now and at least the top still works correctly

At least I now have a switched 12v line in the upper console. I connected it from the unused phone connector in the bottom of the console

thanks again
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:42 PM   #37
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I was going to build one of these, have a box of parts right here but cannot get the code to load in my module...any of them ?? Im using Nano modules BTW
I am using a NANO as well. I can load the code , no problem (at least I think it is being loaded. The app says the upload was sucessfull.

I have an Idea..... maybe I can load the code and you build them ???
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:10 PM   #38
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I get this error

Arduino: 1.5.6-r2 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Nano, ATmega328"

sketch_jun01a.ino: In function 'void loop()':
sketch_jun01a:37: error: a function-definition is not allowed here before '{' token
sketch_jun01a:47: error: a function-definition is not allowed here before '{' token
sketch_jun01a:143: error: expected `}' at end of input

This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
enabled in File > Preferences.
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:28 AM   #39
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Did some more testing this morning

When I meter the output pins (D2 & D3) I do get ~2.5v when I close the switch. The problem is it does not stay latched, in other words it is high only while I close the switch. It doesnort matter how long I keep teh switch closed, as short as momentary or longer. the same result.

Now that is on a meter and one of the problem was that the top relay chattered and the top "stepped" as it was moving.

I am wondering if my board is bad, or the other case is an error in the code
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:23 AM   #40
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JayG,

I have a couple nanos on the way. I should hopefully have them by tomorrow (crossing my fingers for today). I'll build one up over the weekend and see how it goes and if I run into anything similar to you.

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