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Old 12-31-2015, 11:58 AM   #1
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Black Spec Boxster Build

Spec Boxster Build, the beginning of about a two year projected timeline. I don't have clearance to race until our youngest (3 month old) is at least two. And that gives me a comfortable timeline, around work and family life.

Donor: 1998 with 107,000 miles

Replace bearings in Upper, Lower, and Tensioner pulleys with 6203 bearings.

 photo IMAG0205_zpsgq7i8uog.jpg

Using the outer race from an old bearing, cut with a dremel cutoff wheel, all the way through. This will allow the old race to be used for pushing in the new bearing and allow for easy removal of the old race from the pulley housing.

 photo IMAG0206_zpswwwabc08.jpg



Using a vise as a bearing press.

 photo IMAG0208_zpsl44gwhu0.jpg
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Old 01-01-2016, 12:23 PM   #2
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How do I torque the underdrive pulley? I can't figure out how to fit a 24mm socket with a torque wrench up against the firewall. I understand that I can put the MT into 5th gear to hold pulley while wrenching.

BTW. I will eventually get the whole engine/tranny out to do clutch, flywheel, IMS, seals, etc.

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Old 01-01-2016, 03:00 PM   #3
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Wow, I remember that was an issue....

Maybe the trick is to grind down a (sacrificial) socket to make it short enough to fit.

(I think when I first did it I just gave it a decent amount of push on a wrench, because at 38 ft-lbs (which I think is the spec for this bolt), it's not really all that much force. If you know how much pressure feels right for a 95 ft-lb wheel bolt, then 38 is less than half as much force on the same length wrench; or similar force on a wrench half as long.)
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Old 01-09-2016, 06:53 AM   #4
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Wow, I remember that was an issue....

Maybe the trick is to grind down a (sacrificial) socket to make it short enough to fit.
Bought a low profile 24mm socket. That did it.
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Old 01-09-2016, 06:58 AM   #5
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Window glass and regulators removed. Next, I'll pull the wiring and cut off the extra metal in the door panels. Dash is ready to pull, except for the one t20 bolt that my short bit can't reach inside the headlight switch/knob. I do have a long bit, but that's for something else.

 photo IMAG0274_zpsdssicuqs.jpg

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Old 01-09-2016, 10:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
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Window glass and regulators removed. Next, I'll pull the wiring and cut off the extra metal in the door panels. Dash is ready to pull, except for the one t20 bolt that my short bit can't reach inside the headlight switch/knob. I do have a long bit, but that's for something else.
Thanks for reminding me to order a manual for my 97, found it on CD for $7.95 on Ebay.. hopefully it's good, worst case I can get the paperback Bentley for $75 or so.
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Old 01-09-2016, 08:08 AM   #7
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Quote:
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Bought a low profile 24mm socket. That did it.
I have a cut down 24mm socket for mine. It was a tight fit...
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Old 01-25-2016, 07:38 AM   #8
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After removing the ignition housing, the little steering lock nub was exposed. Off you go!

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Old 02-05-2016, 07:20 AM   #9
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Finally, I got the Blower unit removed. I can't believe how big it is and how may wires were attached.

 photo IMAG0418_zpswnq1fbwz.jpg

A winter boot to see the scale. Yes, it's usually like 15 degrees in my garage, so I need these boots. Though I do run electric and kerosene heaters.
 photo IMAG0421_zpsrndiz2rs.jpg

 photo IMAG0422_zpsrtqgj6cy.jpg
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Old 02-22-2016, 11:05 AM   #10
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I got the bumpber off. I'll remove the heat shields. Are people removing the bumper bar too?

Any thoughts on using a a strap style tow hook? So much cheaper and softer when I'm giving my new racecar a hug.

 photo IMAG0516_zpsyjt0c7zd.jpg
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Old 02-22-2016, 11:15 AM   #11
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I used a strap on my last racecar and had no issues. Taped it down so it didn't flap, but other than that it wasn't a problem.
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Old 02-22-2016, 11:20 AM   #12
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I wonder about this type of cheapo tow hook on eBay. Of course it's not a quick bolt on.
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Old 02-22-2016, 01:36 PM   #13
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Yes, people usually remove the bumper support too, to save weight. Also better air-flow out the bumper (once you cut it out). The gear box is a weak area in the Boxster, so keeping it cool is important. Better air flow through there helps with that. Although you might want a gear box oil cooler too.

I have a strap tow hook on the front. The nice thing about them is, they won't open up the other guy's car like a can-opener, which the metal hooks will do. I wish everyone would move to strap hooks--I'd feel a lot safer out there.

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Old 03-09-2016, 03:59 AM   #14
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I fixed the spoiler struts with a piece of hard tube. I happened to have a short piece that was the perfect diameter. Question, do I need to keep the original spoiler motor aluminum bracket in place, attached to the struts? Without that piece, it seems really unstable.

Also, does the front bumper support stay in place?

 photo tube_zps7ihygf7u.jpg

 photo spoiler_zpszjyojx53.jpg
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Old 03-09-2016, 07:03 AM   #15
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That should work for the spoiler, and is a common solution. You should get rid of the cross bracket that holds the motor. I can't recall for sure if there are feet that help bolt the tubes to the floor on each side for stability. Maybe that's what's bolted to your cross bracket at the bottom left corner of your photo -- remove it from the bracket and put it back on the tube, bolted to the floor.
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Old 05-30-2016, 03:53 PM   #16
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Here is a photo from my car. Supply line is removed and the return line is cut and capped off.

Ignore the dark fluid on the hoses - its residual fluid from the power steering line that I ripped off during my last race when I went off track.

By the way, nice work on the front bumper cover and fender liner vents!

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Old 05-30-2016, 04:19 PM   #17
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Here is a photo from my car. Supply line is removed and the return line is cut and capped off.

Ignore the dark fluid on the hoses - its residual fluid from the power steering line that I ripped off during my last race when I went off track.

By the way, nice work on the front bumper cover and fender liner vents!

Tom; You do know there is a warning concerning Pentosin and coolant hoses right? Apparently dissolves the rubber?
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Old 05-30-2016, 05:43 PM   #18
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So I see the supply line from above. Why not just connect these two lines as opposed to capping each? I wonder if the closed system would like the original flow,
although much shorter now. And thanks for the pic Tom(?), always much easier to see than describe.
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Old 05-31-2016, 11:40 AM   #19
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Tom; You do know there is a warning concerning Pentosin and coolant hoses right? Apparently dissolves the rubber?
Hadn't heard this. Do you have a link or something that you can forward? If true, then I need to replace everything because its all over the underside of the car!
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Old 05-31-2016, 12:44 PM   #20
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Hadn't heard this. Do you have a link or something that you can forward? If true, then I need to replace everything because its all over the underside of the car!
Sounds like a good rinse with water and then monitor for swelling?

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