Black Spec Boxster Build
 

Spec Boxster Build, the beginning of about a two year projected timeline. I don't have clearance to race until our youngest (3 month old) is at least two. And that gives me a comfortable timeline, around work and family life.

Donor: 1998 with 107,000 miles

Replace bearings in Upper, Lower, and Tensioner pulleys with 6203 bearings.

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Using the outer race from an old bearing, cut with a dremel cutoff wheel, all the way through. This will allow the old race to be used for pushing in the new bearing and allow for easy removal of the old race from the pulley housing.

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Using a vise as a bearing press.

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How do I torque the underdrive pulley? I can't figure out how to fit a 24mm socket with a torque wrench up against the firewall. I understand that I can put the MT into 5th gear to hold pulley while wrenching.

BTW. I will eventually get the whole engine/tranny out to do clutch, flywheel, IMS, seals, etc.

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Wow, I remember that was an issue....

Maybe the trick is to grind down a (sacrificial) socket to make it short enough to fit.

(I think when I first did it I just gave it a decent amount of push on a wrench, because at 38 ft-lbs (which I think is the spec for this bolt), it's not really all that much force. If you know how much pressure feels right for a 95 ft-lb wheel bolt, then 38 is less than half as much force on the same length wrench; or similar force on a wrench half as long.)

Bought a low profile 24mm socket. That did it.

Window glass and regulators removed. Next, I'll pull the wiring and cut off the extra metal in the door panels. Dash is ready to pull, except for the one t20 bolt that my short bit can't reach inside the headlight switch/knob. I do have a long bit, but that's for something else.

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I have a cut down 24mm socket for mine. It was a tight fit...

Thanks for reminding me to order a manual for my 97, found it on CD for $7.95 on Ebay.. hopefully it's good, worst case I can get the paperback Bentley for $75 or so.

Dash is out! Ignition housing is out, now I've got to cut off the steering lock. FYI, I found that removing the ignition housing requires depressing this little nub. It took me a little while to figure that out.

After steering lock removal and possibly updating the ignition housing with the newer version, it's time for wiring clean-up (nightmare) as the cage is likely going in next.

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After removing the ignition housing, the little steering lock nub was exposed. Off you go!

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Finally, I got the Blower unit removed. I can't believe how big it is and how may wires were attached.

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A winter boot to see the scale. Yes, it's usually like 15 degrees in my garage, so I need these boots. Though I do run electric and kerosene heaters.
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I got the bumpber off. I'll remove the heat shields. Are people removing the bumper bar too?

Any thoughts on using a a strap style tow hook? So much cheaper and softer when I'm giving my new racecar a hug.

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I used a strap on my last racecar and had no issues. Taped it down so it didn't flap, but other than that it wasn't a problem.

I wonder about this type of cheapo tow hook on eBay. Of course it's not a quick bolt on.

Yes, people usually remove the bumper support too, to save weight. Also better air-flow out the bumper (once you cut it out). The gear box is a weak area in the Boxster, so keeping it cool is important. Better air flow through there helps with that. Although you might want a gear box oil cooler too.

I have a strap tow hook on the front. The nice thing about them is, they won't open up the other guy's car like a can-opener, which the metal hooks will do. I wish everyone would move to strap hooks--I'd feel a lot safer out there.

I fixed the spoiler struts with a piece of hard tube. I happened to have a short piece that was the perfect diameter. Question, do I need to keep the original spoiler motor aluminum bracket in place, attached to the struts? Without that piece, it seems really unstable.

Also, does the front bumper support stay in place?

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That should work for the spoiler, and is a common solution. You should get rid of the cross bracket that holds the motor. I can't recall for sure if there are feet that help bolt the tubes to the floor on each side for stability. Maybe that's what's bolted to your cross bracket at the bottom left corner of your photo -- remove it from the bracket and put it back on the tube, bolted to the floor.

I ended up using the aluminum bracket, without motor, to stabilize the spoiler. Also, here's the $9 tow hook (strap) solution. It's rated at 10,000 lbs or so.

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Rear bumper screen done. I cut the hole a bit smaller than usual so I could offset the screen inward and keep the rivets off the front face of the bumper cover.

Allstar Performance ALL22267 1/8 mesh stainless screen, $45 shipped 3'x3' square

homemade brake for the bends

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Front bumper done. Doors fully gutted, except for cutting out the top layer of sheet metal. Wheel wells vented.

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I need some help with the old heater lines for the blower. Do I simply connect the send/return lines together near the oil pan? See below.

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