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Old 02-14-2014, 05:31 PM   #81
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I really liked the red wheel color (which was temporary Plastidip) so I went ahead and had two sets professionally painted. Still going to try out gold on the last set just to see what they look like.



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Old 02-16-2014, 08:27 AM   #82
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Wheels off inspection yesterday to check brakes, rotors, suspension, and tires. Yes, using the lift I can inspect all of those items with the wheels on, but to get a really good look its easiest for me to remove the wheels so I have full access and clear visibility to everything.

As you can see, there is still pad (EBC Yellowstuff) remaining on the front brakes (rears have even more) but the rotors are starting to crack and there is some grooving on the face of the rotor (hard to photograph, easy to feel!).

The cracks are normal/expected. I got the light just right to highlight the biggest crack so it showed up in the photo. Because of this, I have to replace the rotors every time that I replace the pads. Solid or slotted rotors wouldn't crack but I tried them and think that the drilled rotors cool better and have a better feel as a result.

Tires (Toyo RR) are in good shape with generally even wear across the width of the tire. Looks like the alignment, especially camber, is set about right. There is still a reasonable amount of tread remaining after 8 heat cycles (three of which were races) since the wear dots (or whatever those little holes in the tread are called) are still visible.







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Old 03-23-2014, 03:44 PM   #83
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Getting ready for upcoming races at AutoClub Speedway with PCA and Willow Springs Raceway with POC so I had the car at the shop for some lightening and maintenance;

Weight removal = 84lbs Car is still about 75lbs over min weight (with driver) so there will be more to come on this subject.
  • Remove front and rear crash bumpers – 30lbs
  • Remove one low speed radiator fan - 12lbs
  • Remove passenger racing seat + mount + harnesses – 25lbs
  • Remove windshield wiper system – 8lbs
  • Installed lighter "clam shell” mounts – 5lbs
  • Removed trunk carpet & heater core coolant pipes for heater core – 4lbs
Upgrades/Maintenance
  • Install wheel studs to make tire changes at the track easier
  • Improved alignment - add more camber, still wearing outside edge of tires
  • Improved ride height - set car to min spec ride height and optimal rake
  • Nut and Bolt - torque check for all fasteners
  • Change air filter
  • Change oil + filter
  • Top up power steering fluid
  • Top up brake fluid
Next weekend - new brake pads and rotors!
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:09 PM   #84
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FYI -- 2014 Spec Boxster rules require windshield wiper system to be installed.

I did the same thing regarding removing just 1 radiator fan. It's not a bad idea to keep one radiator fan in case you have to idle at stop for some reason (grid, red flag, diagnostics, etc.). Or if you need to drive the car in traffic in a pinch! Best to remove the driver side fan in the interest of equalizing left-right weight.

My car is also overweight but probably not by as much. The obvious things for me still to do are:
- additional door material around the edges
- tar paper in doors
- replace trunk latches with hood pins
- smog pump blower thing

I'm sure there's at least 10 lbs of wiring that can be removed, but that is a big process!
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:15 AM   #85
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Looking good!

Something to note:

Porsche factory cross drilled rotors last MUCH longer than solid rotors that are drilled. They are internally directional and cast with the holes. They are 1lb lighter per rotor than stock solid.

I'll send you a PM explaining more and which ones to buy. They are not expensive.

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set car to min spec ride height
NO. The spec ride height was introduced to keep people from modifying their rear shocks!! This is NOT a guideline!! Please look at Nathan's car!! (you know? the guy kicking everyone's ass on the west coast?) there is NOT one single fast car in this country running *at* the spec ride height. My cars are typically 10-15mm's higher than the rules call for!!
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:22 AM   #86
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Get rid of this.. it traps heat in the rotor. Works great on the street.. No racing caliper has a spring clip, your caliper doesn't need it (7+ years of not running them)

I just noticed something else in this pic.. buy the factory clips for the pad pin!!

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Old 03-24-2014, 09:25 AM   #87
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Tom, you see me on the wall doing tire temps and pressures for cars every weekend at every track ping me offline, I'll discuss what I've found with the RR (nationwide)
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:57 PM   #88
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Quote:
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NO. The spec ride height was introduced to keep people from modifying their rear shocks!! This is NOT a guideline!! Please look at Nathan's car!! (you know? the guy kicking everyone's ass on the west coast?) there is NOT one single fast car in this country running *at* the spec ride height. My cars are typically 10-15mm's higher than the rules call for!!
What ride height are you running front and rear? I generally measure from fender lip to center of wheel.
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Old 03-24-2014, 03:28 PM   #89
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It's a starting number, the final number comes out after the corner weights. Me giving you numbers won't help you

We run ride height XX because of the bump steer in these cars. Run them super low? bad bump numbers. Since we cannot adjust the bump in SPB (like I would in a full monoball car) RAISE the car up until the bump numbers get better Simple.

BoxsterS has less bump gain in the rear due to a change in the casting. They moved the toe link back from axle centerline, which slows the toe gain in bump.
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Old 03-24-2014, 03:50 PM   #90
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It's a starting number, the final number comes out after the corner weights. Me giving you numbers won't help you

We run ride height XX because of the bump steer in these cars. Run them super low? bad bump numbers. Since we cannot adjust the bump in SPB (like I would in a full monoball car) RAISE the car up until the bump numbers get better Simple.

BoxsterS has less bump gain in the rear due to a change in the casting. They moved the toe link back from axle centerline, which slows the toe gain in bump.

Thanks - since I'm not SPB bound, my car has adjustable bump - so I'm less worried about it.

Since I'm new to this world - just trying to gain as much knowledge as I can. The previous owner kept extremely detailed notes on setup, corner balancing etc. I'm going to drive the thing a few times and see whats up.
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Old 03-24-2014, 05:02 PM   #91
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PCA Club race at Thunderhill next weekend.

I'll be there with 4 customer Boxsters.

Sign up for the DE, and I'll help you anyway I can

The NorCal Boxster racers help each other .. a lot.
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Old 03-24-2014, 05:10 PM   #92
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PCA Club race at Thunderhill next weekend.

I'll be there with 4 customer Boxsters.

Sign up for the DE, and I'll help you anyway I can

The NorCal Boxster racers help each other .. a lot.
Unfortunately I can't make it - wife's big Bday weekend in Sonoma County.

Really appreciate the offer and really wish I could make it.
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:57 PM   #93
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Ok

CA Speedway festival speed PCA club race the weekend after THILL race

Should have 8 customer cars at that event for me
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:21 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Roberts View Post
NO. The spec ride height was introduced to keep people from modifying their rear shocks!! This is NOT a guideline!! Please look at Nathan's car!! (you know? the guy kicking everyone's ass on the west coast?) there is NOT one single fast car in this country running *at* the spec ride height. My cars are typically 10-15mm's higher than the rules call for!!
Sorry, I should have said that we set the ride height to "optimal" instead of minimum! For background, the car was initially set kind of high to ensure no scraping issues while I drive to/from the tracks. Since I haven't had any problems, we wanted to get the car set to the best ride height for performance.
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:31 AM   #95
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It wasn't for you It was more of a rant to keep other people from thinking that the ride height rule was the starting point for their alignment You just gave me the opportunity
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:17 AM   #96
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Get rid of this.. it traps heat in the rotor. Works great on the street.. No racing caliper has a spring clip, your caliper doesn't need it (7+ years of not running them)

I just noticed something else in this pic.. buy the factory clips for the pad pin!!

Ok Brad, I hear you. New pads, new rotors, no springs, and factory retaining clips!

See you at Fontana!

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Old 04-03-2014, 09:19 AM   #97
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Racing - its all about tire management!

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Old 04-03-2014, 09:37 AM   #98
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Get rid of this.. it traps heat in the rotor. ...
Oh. Good to know.
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:18 PM   #99
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It was so great finally meeting you at the festival of speed today Tom! Thanks for taking the time to show me your car, now I have no choice but to sell the Volvo and get a Porsche!
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:21 PM   #100
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It was so great finally meeting you at the festival of speed today Tom! Thanks for taking the time to show me your car, now I have no choice but to sell the Volvo and get a Porsche!
Dude, you kill me.

Just so everyone knows, my good friend little "t" qualified 1st and won the Boxster Spec race at the California Festival of Speed today. He pretty much decimated the field. I qualified 4th and finished 5th (of 9 cars).

Tomorrow, we have another race in the morning and an optional race in the afternoon so stay tuned...

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