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Old 04-27-2025, 03:44 PM   #1
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The bank 1 cams are out. Removal was easy and, for the most part, peasy. The exhaust cam lifters wanted to slide out, but I had a helper standing by to prevent it. I removed the lifters one by one and arranged them in order on the worktable. The cam caps and all the bolts are in labeled baggies. Without the compression tool to loosen the cam chain I can't inspect the condition of the bottom pad, but the top pad is more accessible and looks almost new. So there you have it.



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Old 04-27-2025, 06:58 PM   #2
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The bank 1 cams are out. Removal was easy and, for the most part, peasy. The exhaust cam lifters wanted to slide out, but I had a helper standing by to prevent it. I removed the lifters one by one and arranged them in order on the worktable. The cam caps and all the bolts are in labeled baggies. Without the compression tool to loosen the cam chain I can't inspect the condition of the bottom pad, but the top pad is more accessible and looks almost new. So there you have it.



Big advantage of an engine stand is that you turn the engine 90degrees so you are working with cylinders vertical and things don't fall out of the head!
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Arctic Silver 2000 Boxster S - bought with a broken engine, back on the road with the engine replaced
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1987 924S 5-speed (Sold) - Blue 2000 Boxster 5 spd (Sold)
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Old 04-27-2025, 08:26 PM   #3
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Big advantage of an engine stand is that you turn the engine 90degrees so you are working with cylinders vertical and things don't fall out of the head!
Yes, an engine stand would be just the ticket. I've used them before and they're great. Can't justify buying one, though, because I'm close to finishing the engine. After that I'm hoping I'll have no need for one for a long, long time. By the way, Grant, I'd like to check out your procedures for dropping an engine and putting one back in. How many times have you done that?
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Old 04-27-2025, 08:40 PM   #4
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Congratulations, your project is moving along pretty good! :-) I was away for a few days and it was a nice surprise to see the cams on your workbench!

A while ago, I bought a cheap engine stand from Harbor Freight that I used it on the X1/9 (Fiat) and also on the Alfa Milano engines, but never use it on the 987 (never had the need, as it supposed to require an adaptor for the M96/97 that costs way more than the engine stand.. lol
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Old 04-28-2025, 04:44 AM   #5
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I used a stand when I disassembled one, but it was tough getting the IMS out because of the bolt pattern. I have since seen pictures of them being used with the M96 but couldn't tell if they were using the special mount or just had better bolt positioning.
LoneWolfGal: it is remarkably easy to remove and install the engine--if you have a lift. With my now-1000-miles-away two-post, I just disconnected everything and lifted the car off the engine and trans.
Just reverse to replace--and watch that e-brake cable! I have done it 4 times, all but one by myself.
It is remarkably easy if you do it in unit with the transmission.
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Old 04-28-2025, 06:33 AM   #6
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Yes, an engine stand would be just the ticket. I've used them before and they're great. Can't justify buying one, though, because I'm close to finishing the engine. After that I'm hoping I'll have no need for one for a long, long time. By the way, Grant, I'd like to check out your procedures for dropping an engine and putting one back in. How many times have you done that?
Like Newsguy in the previous post I have done four swaps. Since I have Quickjacks that have a lift height that leaves a bit to be desired I have worked out a complicated way to get the engine out. As I understand it you are using jackstands so the easiest way is to drop the engine and transmission then use the engine hoist to lift the rear of the rear of the car enough to pull the engine out. As Newsguy says, "I just disconnected everything and lifted the car off the engine and trans... and watch that e-brake cable!"
I haven't done it this way but one thing I would watch out for is that the front of the car can rotate on the jackstands as the rear is lifted, without slipping off them.

I prefer to remove the engine and transmission together, mainly because separating the engine and transmission and reconnecting them is a lot easier out of the car than under it.
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Old 04-28-2025, 08:41 AM   #7
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Thanks, guys.

I'll definitely drop the engine and transmission as a unit (despite naively stating in an early post that I wanted to leave the transmission in, like I've done with conventional engines). I planned to drop the engine onto a low-profile dolly, but I've gotten the impression that, even if I remove the rear bumper cover and muffler (and fuel tank?), I'll still need more clearance to get the engine out. Bummer. What lift point would I use to lift the rear end of the car with a hoist? I have chains and a couple of beefy ratchet straps at my disposal.

I've been studying the chapter about engine removal in 101 Projects, which has a fairly comprehensive step-by-step how-to for disconnecting stuff in the engine compartment and underneath the car. I thought I'd compare it with other folks' procedures, as belt and suspenders. I also have the service manual. The videos I've watched tend to be superficial, skipping over lots of important stuff. Maybe I haven't found the right video yet.

Newsguy, I salivate when I look at 2-post lifts. It's a must-have tool. Someday...
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Old 04-28-2025, 07:36 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal View Post
Thanks, guys.

I'll definitely drop the engine and transmission as a unit (despite naively stating in an early post that I wanted to leave the transmission in, like I've done with conventional engines). I planned to drop the engine onto a low-profile dolly, but I've gotten the impression that, even if I remove the rear bumper cover and muffler (and fuel tank?), I'll still need more clearance to get the engine out. Bummer. What lift point would I use to lift the rear end of the car with a hoist? I have chains and a couple of beefy ratchet straps at my disposal.
If the bumper cover is off you can use the bumper or the bumper mounting points... I think.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal View Post
I've been studying the chapter about engine removal in 101 Projects, which has a fairly comprehensive step-by-step how-to for disconnecting stuff in the engine compartment and underneath the car. I thought I'd compare it with other folks' procedures, as belt and suspenders. I also have the service manual...
I used the Pelican instructions, the Bentley book and my own list that I revise every time I do an engine.
Here are links to my instructions on Dropbox
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ss2dbwsi1tlsvjvxaddik/Engine-Transmission-attach-and-verify-list.odt?rlkey=ms3vlhjb0ak51n1my6ebfpu9p&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/12j4u0qhvvhmvlv19zhfo/Engine-removal-checklist.odt?rlkey=occnpqnq3dez5ic7mcvqy3awa&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ptqvt6ya9b71i4xt06z1k/Notes-on-checklists.odt?rlkey=8zliunz2x4yolvung6isqqux7&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/4tazjtr9sj3ndlz3n8eo9/Transmission-removal-checklist.odt?rlkey=xit5tht6b1kh5uji7bedze33p&dl=0
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Arctic Silver 2000 Boxster S - bought with a broken engine, back on the road with the engine replaced
Green 2000 Boxster 5-speed and 1978 928 auto
1987 924S 5-speed (Sold) - Blue 2000 Boxster 5 spd (Sold)

Last edited by elgyqc; 04-28-2025 at 07:45 PM. Reason: added links
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Old 04-28-2025, 08:11 PM   #9
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Grant, that's exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks so much!
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