Swapping engines

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by 78F350

On these cars I've found that an engine support bar makes the job much easier. Here's a JFP post: Not a good idea to put a jack under the oil pan

Also, if you are careful with placement (NOT the middle of the sump plate) a heavy duty transmission jack works great for lowering and lifting in conjunction with the bar for stability.

One last note from me... The car needs to be raised up high to have clearance to move the engine past the suspension brackets. I don't have a lift and typically will have the car at several different heights through the process and only have it highest when moving it past the suspension. The first time I did it I used cheap jack stands on blocks - Stupid and unsafe. Splurge on some good jack stands if you don't have a lift available.

Fate must've wanted me to have an engine support bar. I bought this one at Amazon this afternoon after talking to a guy I call "The Grizzled Mechanic." Now you suggest the same thing. It's fate, I tell you.

https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Support-Capacity-Transverse-Garages/dp/B096FY98BS/

I've got some heavy-duty jack stands. Jack stands are the last thing I want to cheap out on. There seem to be a number of schemes to get the back end high enough to clear the suspension brackets. BTW, I don't see the necessity of removing the bumper cover, bumper, axles, drivelines, or even the transmission, as some have done. I prefer that those components remain where they are.

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

... BTW, I don't see the necessity of removing the ... transmission, as some have done. I prefer that those components remain where they are.

I don't see how you can not remove the transmission. The transmission shaft goes into the clutch/flywheel so either the tranny has to be pulled back or the engine moved forward... which is impossible. If you move the transmission back you have effectively removed it. Not the same as a front engine car where you can remove the radiator and slide the engine off the transmission shaft. The rest of the stuff you can leave in place.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

I don't see how you can not remove the transmission. The transmission shaft goes into the clutch/flywheel so either the tranny has to be pulled back or the engine moved forward... which is impossible. If you move the transmission back you have effectively removed it. Not the same as a front engine car where you can remove the radiator and slide the engine off the transmission shaft. The rest of the stuff you can leave in place.

I defer to your greater experience in swapping 986 engines, Grant. I had assumed there would be room to slide the engine forward off the transmission shaft, like I've done with conventional engines. A boneheaded assumption (and not by any means my very first one).

[LoneWolfGal]

Gotta admit, the thought of having a clean, low-miles engine in my 986 brings a grin to my face. It justifies the restoration I plan to do on the car. Someone commented in this thread that 986s are "worth saving." I second that. I think the series 1 986s will one day be regarded with the reverence we now accord the first series 911s, with a value to match. As much as possible, I want to ensure mine makes it to classic status. The numbers won't match, so it won't be "correct," but that might not matter to someone who can appreciate its exceptional beauty.

[KevinH1990]

While celebrating the 25th anniversary of my car's production data (aka it's birthday) I calculated that it's $48,000 cost in 1999 would be over $92,000 in today's dollars. It sounds like your total investment in your car including the replacement engine is about $10,000. While you are banging your knuckles and possibly saying "bad words" tell yourself that your sweat equity is worth $82,000.

I changed the spark plugs and spark plug tubes in my car yesterday. Since I had the rear wheels off, I decided to bleed the brakes. I will be finishing that task today. I hope that I never have to replace an engine, but I will be watching and learning.

[LoneWolfGal]

The new engine will be here Wednesday. it weighs 570 lbs,, according to the seller, and it was shipped sturdily covered and strapped to a pallet. Good thing the diamond plate-steel engine dolly I bought from Amazon is rated at 1000 lbs. Even so, It's gonna be a bear to wrestle around. (I'm sure master-swapper Grant will attest to that.) Fortunately, I have a couple of strong lads I can press into service. I wanted to have the new engine in hand before I started unhooking the old one. I'm the slowest mechanic on the planet, so the swap is likely to be a lengthy process. If it becomes a winter project I might have to fire up my Mr. Heater 75 - 125,000 BTU torpedo heater. (Yes, the area I'll be working in is well ventilated.)

[Gilles]

IMHO, if you disconnect the drive shafts from the tranny, and unbolt the gearbox mounts (to lower the complete assembly), it would be way easier than trying to install the engine with the tranny still attached into the car.
Good luck, and looking forward to your pictures! :-)

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by Gilles

IMHO, if you disconnect the drive shafts from the tranny, and unbolt the gearbox mounts (to lower the complete assembly), it would be way easier than trying to install the engine with the tranny still attached into the car.
Good luck, and looking forward to your pictures! :-)

Sounds logical. Anyone else care to chime in on this question?

[spinjockey]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

Sounds logical. Anyone else care to chime in on this question?

Yes dropping the whole unit is the way to go. It ensures that you can properly torque all of the bolts in the bell housing. You can leave the slave cylinder attached to the line in the car.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

Sounds logical. Anyone else care to chime in on this question?

Dropping it as an assembly is both easier and much faster.

[LoneWolfGal]

I spent the entire day yesterday with my nose pressed against the window, waiting. But 6 pm came and went with no engine forthcoming. What kind of cruel hoax was this? A quick check of tracking revealed that the delivery date had been changed to the 19th. No stranger to disappointment, I merely shrugged. But if TForce Freight lets me down again, there's gonna be big trouble.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Dropping it as an assembly is both easier and much faster.

Thanks, JFP. The more I work on my 986, the more I'm realizing that my experience working on conventional engines is often not applicable to Porsches. It's humbling. Luckily, more experienced folks are around to set me straight.

[LoneWolfGal]

Finally! And it's a heavy mother, I kid you not.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

Finally!

Awesome!

Now start spraying PB Blaster on all of the exhaust hardware, to help loosing any rusted nuts and bolts..

It is going to be a fun project, if you were closer I would volunteer to help you out at my house (have all the tools), but risking getting jinxed by my wife, as any time I start a project and I tell her it will be two hours, turns out to be 8 hours.. , but it will be a fun project none the less..

[LoneWolfGal]

I love tools the way most girls love jewelry. To me they're equally lovely. Have a look at the torque wrench in the bottom drawer. It's a thing of beauty! This is but a fraction of my tool set. Since I bought the 986 my selection of exotic tools (tamper-proof triple-spline bits, for example) seems to have grown exponentially. But I'm not complaining.

[tcoradeschi]

The good news on the triple spline tool front is that if you own a fairly (like in the last 20 years) recent VW, you already own most of the ones you’ll need!

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Awesome!

Now start spraying PB Blaster on all of the exhaust hardware, to help loosing any rusted nuts and bolts..

It is going to be a fun project, if you were closer I would volunteer to help you out at my house (have all the tools), but risking getting jinxed by my wife, as any time I start a project and I tell her it will be two hours, turns out to be 8 hours.. , but it will be a fun project none the less..

Gilles, I'd take you up in a hot minute on that offer to help. I have a feeling wrestling this 570 lb. motor will be a challenge. I do have a beefy engine dolly and a sturdy bar for hoisting it, but I would love to also have a low-profile transmission jack, which might come in handy for this project. That's good advice about PB Blaster. I've always used WD-40, but I've heard good things about PB Blaster.

[JFP in PA]

Try some Kroil, puts PB and WD 40 to shame......................

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Try some Kroil, puts PB and WD 40 to shame......................

Hey, thanks, JFP, I'll do that. It would probably be wise to replace the IMS bearing (and clutch plate) before I stick it in. Do you have a recommendation as to which IMS to get?

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by Gilles

... Now start spraying PB Blaster on all of the exhaust hardware, to help loosing any rusted nuts and bolts...

Good luck with the PB blaster or Kroil (or 50% auto transmission fluid with 50% acetone) but have your dremil (or equivalent) ready. Its nice if the exhaust manifold bolts come out without breaking, but I have had to drill out a few and install helicoils. For the rest of the system be ready to cut the bolts if they won't come loose... and replace them with stainless steel bolts and brass nuts for reassembly. I install SS studs for the exhaust manifolds with the brass nuts.