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Old 03-27-2023, 06:05 AM   #11
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Woodland Wa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecp View Post
I unplugged the potentiometer under the dash. I unplugged the battery for a bit and it looked like all the fuel trims reset, but still no difference, when I try to clear the codes with durametric they do not go away. That tells me either wiring issue or issue with the ecu, but don’t know where to look.

Should I start testing the grounds to throttle body and MAF? Can I use continuity with my multimeter? I think I found a couple diagrams showing the ground wire for each, and in theory I should have continuity to any ground on the car? The plugs on the ecu look good no corrosion and they’re not loose. I tried wiggling them around to see if a wire on the plug is loose but no resolve. Seems like the wire for the MAF is on the third plug of the ecu from what I’ve found.
Maybe I can test for continuity between the ground on the maf and throttle body as well?
You said your gas pedal felt different.
My guess is that your E-Gas potentiometer has gone south. "But it is just a guess"
there are numerous wires that go to it.
I think your best bet at this point is to take it to a shop that is well schooled in electrical issues with theses cars.

Continuity testing by it's self is not that reliable....... this is why I say that.
Wires are made up of multiple strands.
It only takes a single strand to show a connection "continuity"
So all the strands in a wire can be broken except one... that wire will test as good because it shows "continuity" on the single strand.
But the wire "circuit" will not function because there will be to much resistance from the broken strands.

Continuity test are only reliable if the wire is completely broken "no continuity" or used in conjunction with resistance testing.

So again I think you need a shop schooled in electrics specific to theses cars.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
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