Quote:
Originally Posted by ike84
I'm not very good with circuit testing, and my girl is put away for the winter (yes, we still have snow on the ground) so I cant give you any reference values. Maybe someone can post theirs for comparison?
I can tell you for a fact that the car should start and idle normally with the pedal harness disconnected. I know this from when I played around with a pedal commander type device - you will just have a dead pedal.
Typing all this out makes me remember a video I saw a great while back - someone noticed that their potentiometer was sticking and acting up so they disassembled and lubed everything and that fixed the problem. If your pedal has a "different feel" that could be another possibility (sorry, I missed that post or I would have mentioned it earlier). Something maybe worth trying would be to disconnect the pedal and then fire her up. If she idles smooth, you have your problem.
If it is the pedal, 78f350 can probably pull one for you and ship it to you for a reasonable price. He even throws in a bonus goodie 
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It runs different, but still bad. Same with the maf when I unplug it. Then when I press the brake it shoots up to 2k rpm smoothly and shuts off. I saw the thing about cleaning the pot. I got a new to me low mileage one arriving tomorrow. Doubtful it’ll fix the issue. I was reading a thread on renntech that seemed to be describing exactly what I’m experiencing but it seems the conclusion was the dme was faulty.
I’m going to try unplugging maf throttle body and gas pedal and starting and seeing what happens. When I unplugged the maf it seemed like it was trying to adapt and settled on a steady chug instead of constant misfires. Oddly enough I got zero misfire codes.
Should probably pull the firewall behind the seat and look at the harness for anything obvious.