Quote:
Originally Posted by Starter986
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You got this.
That OEM loaner tool is the exact tool I recommended in my first post. For the price is easily worth having, especially since down the road you'll probably be doing the rears also.The harbor Freight style are not worth having.
Your basic concept is correct on the removal process couple things that cause problems are.
1. Once on jackstands and wheels off Mark the camber adjustment with a sharpie to get back to close for alignment, or set back to the middle mark when reassembling as this will give an indication of chassis square since this is the mark used when the car is originally assembled. Break all nuts at the 3 attachment points.
2. The ball joint stem is a taper fit and can rotate when removing the nut so completely remove the nut on the ball joint before pressing out. The spring is in full extension and restrained by the strut and will not drop any further. Obvious since yours is broken I simply mention in case someone else down the road uses this for removal.
3. Remove the control arm to frame bolt and adjuster. Remove the strut to bushing and work control arm pieces out.
4. Reverse steps to reassemble. As mentioned the friction of the nut on the ball joint will rotate the ball joint stem. Place your jack under the ball joint and jack up until the ball joint fully seats in the hub carrier and the strut just begins to compress. This should give enough friction to tighten the nut.
Torque to spec.
Enjoy having 2 new control arms and the experience!
1998 Porsche Boxster
Threaded Mode
