Sound system for Porche Boxster 986 1997

[Zordrack]

For cheap easy bluetooth I've had god luck with adding these two to the original becker.

This was more of a stop gap since everything that I'm looking at is out of stock everywhere.

This one is unavailable right now but worked really well and offers AUX, USB and handsfree input as well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9JW6S1

This one was cheaper and easier to install as it's smaller and didn't have any additional inputs, but it's a bit more annoying as you have to connect to it each time and we did have to reset it every few weeks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MV115BF

I know this is probably not what you're looking for, but figured it might be helpful considering what the landscape of in stock items have been the last couple of months.

[john12312]

Originally Posted by Zordrack

For cheap easy bluetooth I've had god luck with adding these two to the original becker.

This was more of a stop gap since everything that I'm looking at is out of stock everywhere.

This one is unavailable right now but worked really well and offers AUX, USB and handsfree input as well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9JW6S1

This one was cheaper and easier to install as it's smaller and didn't have any additional inputs, but it's a bit more annoying as you have to connect to it each time and we did have to reset it every few weeks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MV115BF

I know this is probably not what you're looking for, but figured it might be helpful considering what the landscape of in stock items have been the last couple of months.

Thanks for the recommendation. Just got the BTA from Amazon yesterday and it seems to work well. I thought it replaced the CD connector but it plugs in right next to it. It was little tight plugging it in but after carefully pushing it slipped in (there's a joke in here somewhere). I like that I didn't lose the functionality of the CD player. I haven't tested the BT phone mic yet. It was a little tricky finding a place to attach it so I wound up running the wire under the dash and tucked it into the creases on the left side and positining it on the dash just above the vent. The BTA I attached to the shelf under the steering wheel with some double sided tape. I'm not so concerned about talking on the phone with this as I am for getting to listen to my streaming music. Just replaced the dash speakers which were disintegrated and am working in the dorr speakers today. Waiting on the rear speaker assembly from Suncoast and hope to install next week. Just the dash speaker replacement made a huge difference in sound.

[Zordrack]

Look right below your phone mount in your cluster.

That's the OEM microphone mount.
if you disassemble the mic that came with the kit and put the foam pop filter from it around the capsule, it'll just squeeze into the void for the OEM mic.

It's a pain in the ass to run the cable but it's completely OEM look and it actually works great.

You will have to remove the cluster to run the cable down through the dash to the center console though.

I would say it's worth the effort to the point where I would do it again. And the mic that comes with it is good enough in that spot that I wouldn't replace it when I upgrade the head unit.

As for dash speakers I just replaced the OEM with the JL Audio C2 4".
Sounds decent with the OEM amp.

I also have a Bose sub/rear speaker from a 987 that I plan on replacing the drivers in with the JL Audio C2 3.5".

Then the real experimentation begins.
Gonna try and figure out what drivers can be fitted to replace the 5.25" woofers in the sub and the door subs.
I was going to go with the JL Audio C5 5.25" woofers but they discontinued them.
There's a few other options out there but it all comes down to mounting depth in the OEM enclosures.
Should be possible to some really decent sound without destroying the look.

[john12312]

Originally Posted by Zordrack

Look right below your phone mount in your cluster.

That's the OEM microphone mount.
if you disassemble the mic that came with the kit and put the foam pop filter from it around the capsule, it'll just squeeze into the void for the OEM mic.

It's a pain in the ass to run the cable but it's completely OEM look and it actually works great.

You will have to remove the cluster to run the cable down through the dash to the center console though.

I would say it's worth the effort to the point where I would do it again. And the mic that comes with it is good enough in that spot that I wouldn't replace it when I upgrade the head unit.

As for dash speakers I just replaced the OEM with the JL Audio C2 4".
Sounds decent with the OEM amp.

I also have a Bose sub/rear speaker from a 987 that I plan on replacing the drivers in with the JL Audio C2 3.5".

Then the real experimentation begins.
Gonna try and figure out what drivers can be fitted to replace the 5.25" woofers in the sub and the door subs.
I was going to go with the JL Audio C5 5.25" woofers but they discontinued them.
There's a few other options out there but it all comes down to mounting depth in the OEM enclosures.
Should be possible to some really decent sound without destroying the look.

Thanks. I thought that may have been a sensor. I'll check the Bentley manual for a way to remove the cluster. Do you have a pic of your mic set up? I installed Kicker 47KSC404 in the dash and they sound great. Got Kicker 47KSC504 for the door speakers installed today and frankly I'm not noticing that much of difference from the new speakers compared to the old ones but my hearing could be failing me. The old speakers were the OEMs and looked pretty much intact as they don't come in contact with direct sunlight like the dash mounts.

[Zordrack]

I never did take pictures of it.
I guess I should have so I could have done a proper writeup.

But it's fairly simple once you get the cluster off.
Biggest pain with that is releasing the connector for the hazard switch.

But after that you can simply pop out the mic trim piece with a trim tool and the mic capsule will just squeeze into the cavity in the back of the trim piece where the OEM mic would normally go.

It friction fits, but with just enough give that it wont pick up too much noise from the car.

[john12312]

Originally Posted by Zordrack

I never did take pictures of it.
I guess I should have so I could have done a proper writeup.

But it's fairly simple once you get the cluster off.
Biggest pain with that is releasing the connector for the hazard switch.

But after that you can simply pop out the mic trim piece with a trim tool and the mic capsule will just squeeze into the cavity in the back of the trim piece where the OEM mic would normally go.

It friction fits, but with just enough give that it wont pick up too much noise from the car.

Thanks. I checked it out and the mic is a tight fit into the trim piece. I'm afraid to force it and break the trim piece. I'm thinking I might be able to fish a line through the opening to the back and pull the mic cord through. Did you not use the foam covering?

[Zordrack]

Originally Posted by john12312

Thanks. I checked it out and the mic is a tight fit into the trim piece. I'm afraid to force it and break the trim piece. I'm thinking I might be able to fish a line through the opening to the back and pull the mic cord through. Did you not use the foam covering?

I dissembled the mic, removing all the plastic, so I was left with just the capsule itself at the end of the wire.
Then stuck the foam around the capsule, both for fitment and pop filtering/decoupling, and crammed foam wrapped capsule into the rear of the trim piece right in the middle.

Getting the wire through the console was a pain in the rear, but everything else seemed to fit really well.