Question parts for shocks/CV Boot replacment

[Cunningr]

Did a quick search but really too much spread ot info to piece together intelligently at least for myself.
Quick down and dirty thinking of buying a set of KONI FSD or Actives whatever they are called now while they are on sale, what else should be replaced while doing shocks is suggested/required.

Second last year tech mentioned a small hole that would need replacement this year, wasn't big enough to cause worry no grease ect... So what else would be recommended to be replaced while doing that job.

Thanks.

[jreissenweber1]

Originally Posted by Cunningr

Did a quick search but really too much spread ot info to piece together intelligently at least for myself.

Quick down and dirty thinking of buying a set of KONI FSD or Actives whatever they are called now while they are on sale, what else should be replaced while doing shocks is suggested/required.



Second last year tech mentioned a small hole that would need replacement this year, wasn't big enough to cause worry no grease ect... So what else would be recommended to be replaced while doing that job.



Thanks.

I'm basically in the same situation and will offer up what I have found thru reading the forum and some tips from a few knowledgeable owners here ..

You haven't given mileage and looks like you have a 2000S .. also it would be good to know what work (if any) has been done to your suspension ..

Main recommendation is to replace all rubber bushings - front and rear strut/control arm/sway bar .. I believe that is due to both wear and decomposition of rubber due to 20 years age ..
also look at motor and transmission mounts - same reason
the question then comes to upgrading to M030 kit which includes new sway bars and springs ..
I have no 1st hand knowledge as to the exact effects either choice will have ..
I hope this at least gives you a basis to do more research and perhaps have a few much more knowledgeable members to comment ..
best of luck ..

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by jreissenweber1

I'm basically in the same situation and will offer up what I have found thru reading the forum and some tips from a few knowledgeable owners here ..

You haven't given mileage and looks like you have a 2000S .. also it would be good to know what work (if any) has been done to your suspension ..

Main recommendation is to replace all rubber bushings - front and rear strut/control arm/sway bar .. I believe that is due to both wear and decomposition of rubber due to 20 years age ..
also look at motor and transmission mounts - same reason
the question then comes to upgrading to M030 kit which includes new sway bars and springs ..
I have no 1st hand knowledge as to the exact effects either choice will have ..
I hope this at least gives you a basis to do more research and perhaps have a few much more knowledgeable members to comment ..
best of luck ..

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Thanks for response, I am not planning on doing full suspension refresh. I have considered a m030 upgrade put have some other things to do first.

For moment was thinking just a shock swap, my car hasn't hit 60K kilometers yet. Not getting much driving time in now that we have been on lock down. I love in southern spain.

[tonythetiger]

CV joint requires pulling the axle, then you are deciding about rebooting the joint or replacing the axle.
There might be some argument out there that you need the Porsche original parts, but many of the aftermarket axles are fine and well priced. You should be able to get them for around 100 bucks apiece. Ive been running FEQ in all my cars for years without issue.
I would replace both axles at the same time (pay attention to torque values on the hubs and axle nut, and use some anti-seize on the splines) Unless the seals are leaking in the transmission or you are having an issue with your wheel bearings, leave well enough alone. Check you bushings and the front motor mount, if they are original, they are shot. You can inspect the transmission mounts, but they are pretty tough. if they are leaking or look collapsed, well, you know.

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by tonythetiger

CV joint requires pulling the axle, then you are deciding about rebooting the joint or replacing the axle.
There might be some argument out there that you need the Porsche original parts, but many of the aftermarket axles are fine and well priced. You should be able to get them for around 100 bucks apiece. Ive been running FEQ in all my cars for years without issue.
I would replace both axles at the same time (pay attention to torque values on the hubs and axle nut, and use some anti-seize on the splines) Unless the seals are leaking in the transmission or you are having an issue with your wheel bearings, leave well enough alone. Check you bushings and the front motor mount, if they are original, they are shot. You can inspect the transmission mounts, but they are pretty tough. if they are leaking or look collapsed, well, you know.

Thanks good info I have a very good private mechanic. But I usually buy parts my car is all original. Why I asked to save on labour later like to replace anything logical.