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		|  03-18-2020, 12:06 PM | #1 |  
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				Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Santa Maria, CA 
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				At a loss trying to remove exhaust bolts
			 
 
			(2001 S) Hey guys, bought some exhaust parts off eBay and they came with a little surprise. The original bolts were cut on one end but they seem to be word welded on in the other end. And I can't reuse them because they're half size so I HAVE to remove them. I've searched on the forums and I've seen talks about just cutting the head off and they fall off but I've also seen talks of some bolts being pressed in. Here's what I have so far and what the other bolt that I haven't gotten around to yet looks like. What do I need to do? I've cut off the head and grinded the side down but I still can't hammer it out.       |  
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		|  03-18-2020, 12:53 PM | #2 |  
	| Who's askin'? 
				 
				Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Utah 
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			I always get out the flame saw.  (Torch) 
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		|  03-18-2020, 02:31 PM | #3 |  
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by maytag  I always get out the flame saw.  (Torch) 
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That'd be nice but sadly I don't have one and it's not in the budget right now :dance:
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		|  03-18-2020, 03:04 PM | #4 |  
	| Motorist & Coffee Drinker 
				 
				Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Oklahoma 
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			Grind off the rest of the bolt as short as possible, the re-drill the hole with either a titanium coated or cobalt drill bit. You may want to start with a small bit and work up in size.
		 
				__________________I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
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		|  03-18-2020, 03:38 PM | #5 |  
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				Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houston, TX 
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			I just did this repair recently. I left the broken end protruding and put a socket on the other side then used my bench vise to compress the broken end into the socket. I just applied about 20lbs of force and heated w a run of the mill propane torch around the flange and within 20 seconds the bolt POPPED into the socket. Now that you’ve ground down the broken end flush you’ll need to find some scrap metal to force the remainder through.
		 
				__________________2004 Boxster S 79K Miles
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		|  03-18-2020, 03:41 PM | #6 |  
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				Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houston, TX 
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			You could try using another bolt to force it through
		 
				__________________2004 Boxster S 79K Miles
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		|  03-18-2020, 04:43 PM | #7 |  
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				Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Charleston 
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			Take the piece to an exhaust shop with cash in hand and get them to cut off that flange and weld on a new one. 
Looks like you have enough area to drill another hole (not centered on the existing ones) and drill a subsequent hole on the other side of the flange. If that explanation makes any sense   
				__________________'99 supercharged 4.3 chevy Boxsterado
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				 Last edited by Qingdao; 03-18-2020 at 04:46 PM.
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		|  03-18-2020, 05:54 PM | #8 |  
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				Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Bastrop, Tx 
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			Back when I use to sell boxster parts I would come across this problem a lot. A hammer and punch makes quick work of removing broken studs that are flush like yours. The one's with stubs usually come out with a quick hit of a hammer.
		 
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		|  03-18-2020, 05:58 PM | #9 |  
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			They are studs or bolts?? 
If they are studs put a socket on one end of the stud and use a C-clamp to push the stud out.  Use a smaller socket on the other side of the C-clamp to push the stud out. 
 
Or do what I'd do and air hammer the thing out.     
That all is assuming they are studs and not threaded in there.
		
				__________________'99 supercharged 4.3 chevy Boxsterado
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		|  03-19-2020, 04:40 AM | #10 |  
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				Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL 
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by itsnotanova  Back when I use to sell boxster parts I would come across this problem a lot. A hammer and punch makes quick work of removing broken studs that are flush like yours. The one's with stubs usually come out with a quick hit of a hammer. |  
Yeah, when I did my Cayman it was similar (but not quite as bad) and I used a tie rod press loaner tool from O'Reilly Auto parts to press them out, and the ones that didn't quite come all the way, a light tap with hammer and punch. Edit: only works if there is some of the stud sticking out. Since your parts are off, you can really support that flange, and a good whack with a hammer and punch    |  
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		|  03-19-2020, 02:45 PM | #11 |  
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				Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Tucson AZ 
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by Qingdao  Take the piece to an exhaust shop with cash in hand and get them to cut off that flange and weld on a new one. 
Looks like you have enough area to drill another hole (not centered on the existing ones) and drill a subsequent hole on the other side of the flange. If that explanation makes any sense   |  
Take it to Midas Muffler and let them work it out.  Ain't worth the trouble for what they'll charge you.  (I like my Midas men!)
		 
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		|  03-20-2020, 12:36 PM | #12 |  
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				Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Omaha 
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			Just went thru this with my 928 (update to thread coming).  I ground the nut end flush with a dremel.  Next step was to take a hammer & punch to them.  Thankfully they all came  out with some healthy whacks.  My next step was to use a yellow benzene torch on them.  The blue version doesn't get hot enough, supposedly the yellow one does.  A yellow version costs $50 at Lowe's.
		 
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		|  03-20-2020, 12:48 PM | #13 |  
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				Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Ireland 
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				__________________Traco
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		|  03-22-2020, 02:13 PM | #14 |  
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				Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Los Angeles 
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			I heat it up using a $20 propane torch until its red hot and then hit it as hard as I can with a hammer and punch. Pop! And you're done. 
I usually wind up in this situation when its still on the car so I'm struggling to avoid setting the underside of the car on fire. Should be a 5 min job on a workbench.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Propane-Torch-Kit-333084/202539561
 
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				 Last edited by thstone; 03-22-2020 at 02:18 PM.
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