08-31-2019, 04:48 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 61
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LS V8 swap into a Boxster S
Already on board with the Go-For-It frame of mind.
I posted an introduction about a week back. After going through the learning curve for the site I've found I should use proper punctuation, paragraphs, and not live where I have for my entire life (Spokane). Lol!
I picked up a very well used 2001 Boxster S, six speed, very pretty blue, that has been ridden very hard then passed along. New tires, new top, new seats, new clutch, very cool Fabspeed exhaust from headers to sensors to mufflers.
That being said I have been in contact with Travis at Renegade Hybrids regarding mounts. I plan to get the adapter from Kennedy Engineering.
I picked my handle of outsidetheboxster as I want to do if differently. I don't want to cut so far into the passenger compartment if it's avoidable. I'd like to find a way to tap into the freeze plugs or the bellhousing end of the block to connect to the water passages if possible. I have all winter to make it all come together. Pipe dream perhaps but still....
Anyway, I will call this my build thread unless I'm in the wrong category. Can someone confirm or point me in the right direction please?
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08-31-2019, 04:50 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 61
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And once again I forgot to say I'm planning the GM LS swap of some sort. Thinking a 5.3 with a cam but this is my first venture into LS territory. Suggestions for a guy with a limited-ish budget?
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08-31-2019, 05:52 PM
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#3
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Who's askin'?
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,446
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Oh.... we need MORE of this! Hahaha.
I'm subscribing.
Following closely.
I like my 3.2, but I have this roller without a motor sitting here...... hahaha.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Last edited by maytag; 08-31-2019 at 08:07 PM.
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08-31-2019, 05:54 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 31
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The LS motor is hard to beat. There is a lot of support for engine swaps. Ask my brother.
__________________
My current projects.
1964 Corvette Frame Off Restoration
1/2 way done
1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite Rotisserie Restoration
90% complete in the final stages
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09-01-2019, 03:20 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,507
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__________________
My Porsche keyfob, instrument cluster and alarm ecu repair service: https://sportwagendoktor.de
Last edited by Smallblock454; 09-01-2019 at 03:23 AM.
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09-01-2019, 06:42 AM
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#6
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Racer Boy
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 946
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What’s wrong with Spokane? It’s a really nice town. I grew up in Kennewick, BTW.
I’ll be following your progress with your build.
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09-01-2019, 04:06 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 61
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Smallblock454, thanks so much for the links! Very inspiring reading!
I actually read all of the posts by BoxsterLS376. That is what convinced me to go buy this tiny beast of a car. Lol! I had no idea I even wanted one until I heard 50/50 weight distribution, 6 speed, cheap oil changes, etc.
Very much appreciate the link for the tach correction unit. That opens my field of possible engines so much. Stuttgart Muscle had indicated I needed a 58x reluctor wheel. Also found out somewhat recently that a Vortec is also workable. Once you start to research a whole world of swap ideas come to find.
Now to narrow it down to a proper displacement. "No replacement for displacement" comes to mind but then reality sets in. I don't need 600+ horsepower at this stage of life. I just love the sound of a proper V-8 and a stick shift. I'd be happy with anything equal to stock for now, or perhaps a bit of a bump to say 350ish or so.
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09-01-2019, 04:08 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 61
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When changing a cam what does it take to change the computer fuel maps and timing adjustments? Is this already done by the computer or does this need to be hired out to someone with a dyno? I'm old school. You advance the distributor a few degrees and drive it around the block to see if it pings....
Also wondering if the stock harness is easy enough to modify or if I should go with aftermarket? I am an electrician and can follow diagrams so.....
Hang in there gang. Any moment I'll get going with actual progress! Still tearing down and cleaning up at this point.
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09-04-2019, 04:15 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: PA
Posts: 1,549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outsidetheboxster
... I've found I should use proper punctuation, paragraphs, and not live where I have for my entire life (Spokane). Lol!...
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We're pretty forgiving here. Just don't go insulting someone's intelligence if you don't know the difference between "your" and "you're".
I'm looking forward to updates on your project with lots of enthusiasm and a little envy!
Best of luck!
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09-04-2019, 05:26 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 61
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piper6909. Did not mean to offend anyone, including you.
I really can't figure out why so many people have bad engines, and yet they are intimidated by this swap. Maybe lack of good, clear directions and a parts source?
Hopefully we can clear that up. Of course it takes funding but it should not be break-the-bank type money. It's really just a matter of buying the adapter and engine, then making it fit and run. A bit of wiring work, some coolant circulation hurdles, and some metal work.
And then the exhaust, tuning, metal engine cover fabrication, upholstery, more wiring, power steering hose modifications, shift cable re-work, fuel pump lines, axle geometry, etc. I suppose exhaust routing too. Yeah, I get it.
I'll see what I can finagle and get things straightened out. Any help would be most welcome. Come on gang, lets do this!
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09-04-2019, 06:27 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: PA
Posts: 1,549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outsidetheboxster
piper6909. Did not mean to offend anyone, including you.
I really can't figure out why so many people have bad engines, and yet they are intimidated by this swap. Maybe lack of good, clear directions and a parts source?
Hopefully we can clear that up. Of course it takes funding but it should not be break-the-bank type money. It's really just a matter of buying the adapter and engine, then making it fit and run. A bit of wiring work, some coolant circulation hurdles, and some metal work.
And then the exhaust, tuning, metal engine cover fabrication, upholstery, more wiring, power steering hose modifications, shift cable re-work, fuel pump lines, axle geometry, etc. I suppose exhaust routing too. Yeah, I get it.
I'll see what I can finagle and get things straightened out. Any help would be most welcome. Come on gang, lets do this!
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I wasn't offended in any way. I was trying to make a joke about using "...proper punctuation, paragraphs..." Obviously the joke bombed, and I'm sorry I didn't clarify that I was generalizing and it wasn't directed towards you or anything you did or said.
Having said that, I'm truly looking forward to seeing updates on your project. I can turn some wrenches and swap parts & motors. But making mods way beyond my capabilities. Thus the bit of envy, but no malice.
Best wishes and I look forward to your posts.
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09-04-2019, 09:57 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outsidetheboxster
When changing a cam what does it take to change the computer fuel maps and timing adjustments? Is this already done by the computer?
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No.
Quote:
Originally Posted by outsidetheboxster
…or does this need to be hired out to someone with a dyno?
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Yes, but the dyno is not the important part. The person needs to know how to remap the ECU you're using and needs to have experience in doing that.
__________________
My Porsche keyfob, instrument cluster and alarm ecu repair service: https://sportwagendoktor.de
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09-05-2019, 12:05 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Fulshear, TX
Posts: 266
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I love these build threads!
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09-06-2019, 06:12 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsallean
I love these build threads!
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I do too. I'm excited to move this one along and stop trying to decide which engine to go with!
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09-06-2019, 07:56 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammyj
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Very good link, thank you. I haven't taken the time to read all of it yet, but it has been bookmarked for later reference and looks promising.
As my current clutch is almost new I plan to re-use it along with the Kennedy adapter set up so I don't want to go nuts on the power level yet. Just get it all to fit and work then add more power as necessary. Necessary seems like a funny line of thinking but saving money for now is a great idea! Money spent wisely seems to go further towards necessities.
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09-13-2019, 06:30 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 61
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adapter
OK guys and gals. Small update for anyone watching from the sidelines.
I ordered my adapter today , but went with the one from kitcarchassis.com. I spoke with Eric and he is a very good source of information. Also this kit includes a complete stage one clutch setup for almost the same cost as the Kennedy kit with no clutch. Kind of a no brainer. Sounds like about 3 weeks from now I'll have the adapter in hand. Better get busy and find a motor. Stay tuned!
p.s. Any thoughts on how to clean all the oil/antifreeze mix out of the cooling lines and radiators with no motor or water pump in place? I'm thinking an electric pump and a bunch of Super Clean but that will create a lot of waste water to deal with.
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09-13-2019, 07:22 PM
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#18
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Racer Boy
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 946
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Jack the front of the car up, and the coolant should run out of the lines that are under the car. You can take the hoses off the radiators, to make sure everything drains out.
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09-14-2019, 07:22 AM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer Boy
Jack the front of the car up, and the coolant should run out of the lines that are under the car. You can take the hoses off the radiators, to make sure everything drains out.
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I went so far as to use a shop vac to get the bulk of the liquid sludge out. I'm more concerned with the oil residue still likely coating the surfaces inside of the radiators and heater core. I want to get all that out before installing a new engine and such. I can remove all the parts of course, but not looking forward to pulling the heater core just to clean it. Lazy streak I guess. Lol.
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09-14-2019, 07:52 AM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: PA
Posts: 1,549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outsidetheboxster
I went so far as to use a shop vac to get the bulk of the liquid sludge out. I'm more concerned with the oil residue still likely coating the surfaces inside of the radiators and heater core. I want to get all that out before installing a new engine and such. I can remove all the parts of course, but not looking forward to pulling the heater core just to clean it. Lazy streak I guess. Lol.
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That's a tough one. the tricky part is getting the cleaning solution to go up into the heater core since it's relatively high compared to the rads.
One thought, and it's just theoretical, is to jack up the back of the car, so the ends of the hoses are higher than the heater core. Or close to it. Then get a submersible pump from Harbor Freight, put it in a 5-gallon bucket or bigger filled with your cleaning solution. Connect the output from the pump to one of the rad hoses, and run a hose from the other rad hose back into the bucket. turn it on and let it circulate for a while. In theory that should work.
Now, what kind of solution to use?
Good luck!
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