Brake Fluid inquiry

[Starter986]

I've 2 bottles of this brake fluid... purchased for my E30 14 years ago... never opened.

Will this work for the 98' 986?

Thank you.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Starter986

I've 2 bottles of this brake fluid... purchased for my E30 14 years ago... never opened.

Will this work for the 98' 986?

Thank you.

Not sure if it will work for your 986. But 14 years old, I would check it with a moisture meter even though it has never been opened. New fresh brake fluid is not going to brake the bank

[Racer Boy]

14 years old? It's probably fine, but how much are you saving by not buying some newer, better fluid?

It just seem to me like a penny wise pound foolish thing.

[Jgkram]

After researching a little, because your question started me wondering how long this stuff really lasts, say that “ ...in ideal conditions, an unopened container lasts approximately two years.” That seems waaaayyy short to me but that’s what I found. Like the others have said, this stuff is cheap so why bother trying to use 14 year old fluid and take any chances.

[Starter986]

Thank you all for the input. Yeah... it's been sitting around for awhile... but I'm fairly frugal. I didn't become a thousandaire by throwing money around.

That said... I'll recycle those bottles.

Now, and I ask only because there are so many choices (I've read a bunch of posts)... what brand and type should I purchase... and how much? Just the one bottle?

There are a lot of choices, and I'd like to go with the most recommended, absent the unicorn fluid.

Thank you!!!

[NewArt]

Motul 600 will work fine.

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by NewArt

Motul 600 will work fine.

Thank you, Art.

How many would you suggest for a fluid flush?

Thanks!!

[Burg Boxster]

Originally Posted by Starter986

Thank you, Art.

How many would you suggest for a fluid flush?

Thanks!!

What do you do with your car? Sounds like street driving only in which case any DOT 4 is plenty adequate. A bit more than what you need but I run ATE Typ200 in all my street vehicles (and some track if I haven't moved them to Castrol SRF yet). ATE is less than $20 a liter delivered and keeps it simple having only one fluid around so I always have a fresh can somewhere in the garage.

That said, to answer your question... 1l (two 500ml Motul) would be sufficient if you are efficient flushing...three if not.

Good luck

[NewArt]

Originally Posted by Burg Boxster

What do you do with your car? Sounds like street driving only in which case any DOT 4 is plenty adequate. A bit more than what you need but I run ATE Typ200 in all my street vehicles (and some track if I haven't moved them to Castrol SRF yet). ATE is less than $20 a liter delivered and keeps it simple having only one fluid around so I always have a fresh can somewhere in the garage.

That said, to answer your question... 1l (two 500ml Motul) would be sufficient if you are efficient flushing...three if not.

Good luck

I agree with this. Motul 600 is probably overkill. Not everybody is out heating up their brakes on the racetrack!

[Starter986]

Thanks, guys!

[JayG]

Get a power bleeder, it will save you a ton of time

Unless your current fluid is dirty and dark, its a bit hard to see when the fresh fluid has pushed the old stuff out. You may end up using more than 1 liter

there was a post a long time ago the approximate amopunts needed to flush each caliper.
Brake flush amounts

And yes, Motul 600 is overkill for a street car. ATE-200 and Pentosin (Pep Boys has it) are good choices

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by JayG

Get a power bleeder, it will save you a ton of time

Unless your current fluid is dirty and dark, its a bit hard to see when the fresh fluid has pushed the old stuff out. You may end up using more than 1 liter

there was a post a long time ago the approximate amopunts needed to flush each caliper.
Brake flush amounts

And yes, Motul 600 is overkill for a street car. ATE-200 and Pentosin (Pep Boys has it) are good choices

Got the power bleeder, thank you. I've seen some members have attachments in-line... for ease of use. Would you recommend using it out of the box... or are there any fitting I can purchase fromn The Home Depot that makes the job easier?

In advance, thank you.

[Burg Boxster]

Originally Posted by Starter986

Got the power bleeder, thank you. I've seen some members have attachments in-line... for ease of use. Would you recommend using it out of the box... or are there any fitting I can purchase fromn The Home Depot that makes the job easier?

In advance, thank you.

Out of box plenty fine as you only need ~ 18psi; don't over think it. Fine to use power bleeder wet (filled) or dry (just for air pressure - my preferred method which not only saves on clean-up but greatly mitigates risk of spilling caustic brake fluid). In either case, use a turkey baster to suck out most of old fluid from reservoir topside but do not let go dry and DO NOT put back into kitchen utensil drawer . No sense pushing more old/dirty fluid thru system.

Another tip w/ powerbleeder...actually two (if you didn't buy 'catch' bottle and maybe even if you did):
- get a longer waste line...one that reaches deep into your catch/waste reservoir resting on ground while bleeding. Otherwise those missing third and fourth appendages w/ hands are really noticeable whilst trying to hold catch can, tube, flared wrench, flashlight, etc. while each bleed screw is open... Alternatively you can epoxy a rare earth magnet to catch can and let it self support of suspension or rotor hat or...
- put equal graduated markings one side of catch can... at least 4 or 5 if also doing clutch. This way there's no "I think it was already this full when I started this corner but hmmm...). 250ml per corner (even 200) is plenty to flush line & caliper from reservoir to bleed screw... gets much less closer you get to reservoir.

Good luck

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by Burg Boxster

Out of box plenty fine as you only need ~ 18psi; don't over think it. Fine to use power bleeder wet (filled) or dry (just for air pressure - my preferred method which not only saves on clean-up but greatly mitigates risk of spilling caustic brake fluid). In either case, use a turkey baster to suck out most of old fluid from reservoir topside but do not let go dry and DO NOT put back into kitchen utensil drawer . No sense pushing more old/dirty fluid thru system.

Another tip w/ powerbleeder...actually two (if you didn't buy 'catch' bottle and maybe even if you did):
- get a longer waste line...one that reaches deep into your catch/waste reservoir resting on ground while bleeding. Otherwise those missing third and fourth appendages w/ hands are really noticeable whilst trying to hold catch can, tube, flared wrench, flashlight, etc. while each bleed screw is open... Alternatively you can epoxy a rare earth magnet to catch can and let it self support of suspension or rotor hat or...
- put equal graduated markings one side of catch can... at least 4 or 5 if also doing clutch. This way there's no "I think it was already this full when I started this corner but hmmm...). 250ml per corner (even 200) is plenty to flush line & caliper from reservoir to bleed screw... gets much less closer you get to reservoir.

Good luck

Awesome! Thank you.

I have no catch can, yet... and will follow your recommendations.

Thank you so much!!

[JayG]

I use my power bleeded dry, just for pressure.
As you need to keep adding fluid as you bleed, I put air fitings on the pressure line from the bleeder. That way you dont have to completely repump the bleeder when you refill fluid

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by JayG

I use my power bleeded dry, just for pressure.
As you need to keep adding fluid as you bleed, I put air fitings on the pressure line from the bleeder. That way you dont have to completely repump the bleeder when you refill fluid

OK. I may be lost...

"Add fluid as I bleed"? I'll be putting more than a cup of fluid into that bleeder. Isn't that counter-productive. Doesn't that bleeder hold like one gallon????? That isn't reconciling with my limited sensibilities.

If I use the power bleeder dry I:

Suction out some brake fluid from the reservoir...

Add brake fluid to the reservoir...

Screw cap onto brake reservoir...

Pump bleeder...

Bleed a line until reservoir level decreases...

Remove cap from reservoir...

Refill reservoir with brake fluid...

Reinstall cap to reservoir...

Be certain pump is at correct pressure...

Bleed a line until reservoir level decreases...

Remove cap from reservoir...

Refill reservoir with brake fluid...

Reinstall cap to reservoir...

Be certain pump is at correct pressure...

Bleed a line until reservoir level decreases...

Remove cap from reservoir...

Refill reservoir with brake fluid...

Reinstall cap to reservoir...

Be certain pump is at correct pressure...

Bleed a line until reservoir level decreases...

Or:

Put brake fluid in bleeder...

Install cap to reservoir...

Pump to adequate pressure...

Start bleeding brakes until all are done...

Remove cap from reservoir...

Clean out bleeder...

Um... done.

What am I missing, seriously.

I find the alternative for which wholly the bleeder was designed to be incredibly inefficient.

If I'm missing something, tell me. I'll own it.

Thank you.

Pump to adequate pressure

[paulofto]

I've done bleeding wet and dry and dry is by far the easiest and least messy. Do it correctly dry and you only have to refill the reservoir once. If you put fluid in the bleeder the after bleed clean up is more tedious than any other step in the process.

[Burg Boxster]

Originally Posted by Starter986

What am I missing, seriously.

I find the alternative for which wholly the bleeder was designed to be incredibly inefficient.

If I'm missing something, tell me. I'll own it.

Thank you.

Basically you have the gist...

However...

Pumping up bleeder is not like inflating an air mattress by mouth - LOL. It's maybe 15-20 pumps (I dunno something like 20-30 seconds) max. Toddler water wings for the pool hold more air and at higher pressure - HA! If you're winded from pumping a power bleeder then please stay out of the driver's seat on public roads as you've got serious health issues and are putting other drivers at unnecessary risk.

When using a power bleeder dry I doubt you'll need to add fluid more than once to the reservoir for bleeding (maybe a slight top off at end to get to correct level - but usually I'm bleeding excess off at driver side corner to bring down to correct level). Maybe one or two pumps to bring pressure back up between corners but usually the whole axle can be done when starting at 18psi.

Good luck

[Burg Boxster]

Originally Posted by paulofto

I've done bleeding wet and dry and dry is by far the easiest and least messy. Do it correctly dry and you only have to refill the reservoir once. If you put fluid in the bleeder the after bleed clean up is more tedious than any other step in the process.

Exactly

[Burg Boxster]

Originally Posted by Starter986

I have no catch can, yet...

I have found 32oz gatorade bottles work well - tall enough, correct volume(almost 1000ml more than plenty room), wide base (aka hard to accidentally knock over spilling brake fluid on your clean garage floor) and all flavors perform equally well



Good luck