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Old 06-21-2019, 08:37 PM   #1
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Noob here!!! 2001 Box....new to me...lots of questions

Hello all....I am a noob here on this forum yet very familiar with the forum world with my other interests.
I just purchased via ebay a 2001 Boxster with 158k on it. It was owned by a Porsche mechanic which gave me some confidence to buy it with high mileage. Many of the common issues have already been repaired or replaced. I watched many youtube vids before buying so i would know what to look for. I dont want to make this too long.....let me just take baby steps and get some help with my current issues.

1. where can I find a cheap shift knob and boot replacement? There is no shift pattern sticker on my knob and it just looks faded.
2. When I start my car....say 6 out of 10 times it will start with a loud squeal. Where should I start...how can I diagnose? Is it most likely the starter....a drive belt....alternator?
3. The battery did have a low charge when I got it......I am battling the lights and switches to figure out how they work and what they do. My pass side door light seems to come on or go off when ever it wants. Anyone else have that issue? The drivers side door light is burnt out will fix soon. The dash lights do stay on after I turn off the car unless I lock it. The key switch has been replaced. What is the purpose of the lock button on the dash?
4. Does anyone know where I can get the tail light marker light part number...meaning the tiny little bulb....I removed both sides and learned the set up......but need a part number that would work at an auto parts store. In addition to that rear light question....I appear to have 1 bulb per side that does not come on during any function.....I had my wife pull out the headlight switch and finally saw the mystery bulb come on but only on one tail light.....is this an extra by any chance?
5. Can anyone explain or show me a diagram of how the headlight switch works? Obviously I have figured out the basics.....but what does pulling out the knob do? And there is a light to the left of the switch that makes me really want to move the headlight switch further to the left but it stops prior.

wooops........I asked way too many questions on round 1.....sorry.....Just skim it and help if u can......thanks!!!!!

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Old 06-21-2019, 09:05 PM   #2
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1) Check the for sale forums. Lots of cars being parted out and I'm sure you can find one for a good price.

2) Starter bendix is sticking. Common issue. Fix by cleaning and lubing the bendix.

3) Likely a bad door latch switch is making the light turn on and off. The cluster lights are supposed to stay on for a few minutes or until you lock the car. The switch on the dash is for locking from the inside.

4) Check the owners manual for bulb types: http://p914-6info.net/Boxster_Manuals/986%20owners%20manual.pdf

5) Again, in the owners manual. The one light is the rear fog light and there's only supposed to be one. The other side is a dummy bulb and not powered.

Last edited by particlewave; 06-21-2019 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 06-21-2019, 10:12 PM   #3
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Box774, welcome.

PW got you squared-away in his reply. I'd say absolutely FIRST thing you need is an owner's manual.

What color is your interior? I have a grey interior I'm parting.

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Old 06-22-2019, 01:04 AM   #4
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Use the link and scroll down. You can download the 618 page PDF file for your car. This is the factory parts catalog.

https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/classic/genuineparts/originalpartscatalogue/
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Old 06-22-2019, 07:14 AM   #5
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Hello all.....thanks for the replies. I will do my homework and get the owners manual and check the parts pdf....very helpful. My interior is black...I dont think I am allowed to post pics yet but I will as soon as I can.
The starter bendix sp? is my top priority right now....kind of embarrassing starting the car with the loud screech....are there any vids or how to's on the starter repair? I have only owned the car for a week.....still havent found the engine yet
I have it mostly detailed......refurb'd the headlights.....replacing one small light bulb at a time.....
Door switch
Shift boot and knob
Bendix sp?
3rd brake light bulb

fun project....so far I am enjoying working on the car for a few hours then taking her for a spin in the evening with the top down. Even with 158k miles on her she still pulls pretty hard.
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Old 06-22-2019, 07:41 AM   #6
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Check the battery. It should hold 12.5V with the ignition off, 11V when the starter is engaged and 14+V when idling just after start. If it fails these, replace the battery and recheck after driving it for a week. If it still fails the voltage regulator or alternator are bad.
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Last edited by Anker; 06-22-2019 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 06-22-2019, 07:54 AM   #7
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Thanks ANKER......Im no mechanic but I am good at the basics.....I have a Multi meter....will try your tests. When I purchased the car it would barely start on a weak battery and the bendix would squeal every other start or so. The batt was at 12.3 volts engine off after a 3hour drive the day before. I put the batt on a trickle charger to achieve a full charge. After charged the bendix still squealed but the starter spun the motor much faster. I am trying to see if I have some kind of parasitic drain.....or like you said maybe its the alternator or voltage regulator.
Thanks
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Old 06-22-2019, 08:33 AM   #8
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Thanks ANKER......Im no mechanic but I am good at the basics.....I have a Multi meter....will try your tests. When I purchased the car it would barely start on a weak battery and the bendix would squeal every other start or so. The batt was at 12.3 volts engine off after a 3hour drive the day before. I put the batt on a trickle charger to achieve a full charge. After charged the bendix still squealed but the starter spun the motor much faster. I am trying to see if I have some kind of parasitic drain.....or like you said maybe its the alternator or voltage regulator.
Thanks
Do a voltage drop test on your starting system and your charging systems.
They will tell you if you have parasitic drain or any other problems with those systems.
If you don't know how to do those tests look them up on youtube, lots of info on what a voltage drop test is and how to do them on various systems.
All you need is your Multi meter to do the tests.
as an edit to my comments: a (Digital) Multi Meter.

Last edited by blue62; 06-23-2019 at 01:33 PM.
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Old 06-22-2019, 09:14 AM   #9
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[QUOTE=Box7774;598046]
The starter bendix sp? is my top priority right now....kind of embarrassing starting the car with the loud screech....are there any vids or how to's on the starter repair?

You might find this youtube video helpful for troubleshooting/lubricating your noisy starter. He has done many other DIY repairs that are interesting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ9qnnf2kWU
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Old 06-22-2019, 09:29 AM   #10
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Right, you want the Bentley manual for your car, just do a proper amazon search to find it, then look for a good price. The 101 projects book is also a good read. There are project videos for many of these projects posted as well.
Some of the big stuff might need a mechanic, find a good Indy shop but read the manual so you know whatís involved. I use a couple that let me source my parts and the appreciate my understanding the job.
Parts are expensive and the prices are all over the place. Source carefully so you donít pay too much, but also avoid buying crap as well. Some aftermarket stuff is good, some ainít.
Ask as many questions as you want, but search the forums first, many have been asked and answered through the years and you can add to the community by following prior advice and posting your experience in existing threads.
Oh, and welcome to the group.


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Old 06-22-2019, 10:45 AM   #11
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Check the battery. It should hold 12.5V with the ignition off, 11V when the starter is engaged and 14+V when idling just after start. If it fails these, replace the battery and recheck after driving it for a week. If it still fails the voltage regulator or alternator are bad.
or you simply have a bad connection
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Old 06-22-2019, 09:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
or you simply have a bad connection


Check your grounds. I had some weird stuff come up on window actions and the top. Had a corroded connection back by the starter that fixed it all.
Search for Particlewave posts on this. It will help you see where they are and how important.


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Old 06-22-2019, 09:42 PM   #13
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Further, my advice on the starter? Replace it. You can take it apart and lube it up, but why? Itís a simple motor and bendix, 150 dollar part and itís a swap.
Pay attention that getting to the bolts involves going behind the seats. Pull the passenger seat out and buy some room. Extensions on your sockets and have at it, 2 hours. Save the old and rebuild it at leisure, sell on eBay
BOOM!


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Old 06-22-2019, 09:50 PM   #14
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Thanks for the replies. The vid link for the starter motor bendix is in fact my issue...thanks for posting that....it is the exact same sound. The job looks like a pain but the Porsche wont be needed for daily driving so I could take my time. I downloaded the manual from the provided link and started absorbing.........I have a lot to learn but thanks for providing the links and suggestions.
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:18 AM   #15
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Thanks Tony........yep thats what I was thinking. If i am going to remove and reinstall I might as well reinstall a new one. I hadn't researched the price of a new one or a rebuilt one but by watching the vid and seeing the starter it looks very basic. If u have a link to a good one to buy please provide.

In regards to my battery or electrical snafoo's a bad connection is very possible. This so called garage kept car has been outdoors top down a lot. I have been vacuuming out leaves and tree debris from the seats and every crack and crevice.

My question for you guys is this........is this car computer sensitive to battery removal? In other words will the computer have to re learn when a new battery is installed or does the Boxster given it vintage handle battery replacement just fine? I do own one of those power supply devices that plugs into the info port of the car to keep it powered up but would rather not use it if I dont have to.

The reason I ask is that the battery connections are both weathered by the salt air of Salisbury Maryland where I bought the car.....especially the negative connection. Not the connection at the battery....its a short wire that mounts to a nearby post...its at that post where I see the weathered look that I want to thoroughly clean.
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Old 06-23-2019, 11:18 AM   #16
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Thanks Tony........yep thats what I was thinking. If i am going to remove and reinstall I might as well reinstall a new one. I hadn't researched the price of a new one or a rebuilt one but by watching the vid and seeing the starter it looks very basic. If u have a link to a good one to buy please provide.

In regards to my battery or electrical snafoo's a bad connection is very possible. This so called garage kept car has been outdoors top down a lot. I have been vacuuming out leaves and tree debris from the seats and every crack and crevice.

My question for you guys is this........is this car computer sensitive to battery removal? In other words will the computer have to re learn when a new battery is installed or does the Boxster given it vintage handle battery replacement just fine? I do own one of those power supply devices that plugs into the info port of the car to keep it powered up but would rather not use it if I dont have to.

The reason I ask is that the battery connections are both weathered by the salt air of Salisbury Maryland where I bought the car.....especially the negative connection. Not the connection at the battery....its a short wire that mounts to a nearby post...its at that post where I see the weathered look that I want to thoroughly clean.
If the car is a 2001 it has E-gas (throttle by wire) there is a procedure you must go through so the computer can relearn the throttle position anytime you disconnect and then reconnect the battery. (it is in the Bentley book).

The reason I said to do a "voltage drop test" on your starting and charging systems rather then just taking voltage readings is:

Voltage readings just tell you voltage readings.

A voltage drop test not only tells you if you have a problem, or not.
It also gives you an effective way to identify and locate it.

For example when done properly!! A voltage drop test will tell you weather or not the weathered negative connection you speak of is creating enough resistance to create a voltage drop.

Last edited by blue62; 06-23-2019 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 06-23-2019, 12:51 PM   #17
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Also record the serial of the radio and check your papers for reset code. After disconnecting battery the stereo locks out.
If not, search the forum for the thread on this and ask, there are a few that have a way to provide the code with serial, better then paying a website 20 bucks.


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Old 06-23-2019, 07:00 PM   #18
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I was going to start a new thread for this question but i will ask it here first. So here in Va its a gorgeous night so I couldn't help myself and took the new to me 986 for a zip around. Wow that little car pulls pretty hard and sounds great! That was the first time that I have tacked her up and she did not disappoint. The top goes up and down with no issues but I am noticing that after I put the top back up and exit the drivers door.....when I shut the drivers door the window hits the outside of the top frame....am I doing something wrong? I can manipulate it a bit and get it to shut within the frame and seal correctly but it would be better to see the window go down 2" when I get out of the car and shut the door.....then go up after I have shut the door....if that makes any sense.
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Old 06-23-2019, 07:05 PM   #19
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Old 06-23-2019, 07:55 PM   #20
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I was going to start a new thread for this question but i will ask it here first. So here in Va its a gorgeous night so I couldn't help myself and took the new to me 986 for a zip around. Wow that little car pulls pretty hard and sounds great! That was the first time that I have tacked her up and she did not disappoint. The top goes up and down with no issues but I am noticing that after I put the top back up and exit the drivers door.....when I shut the drivers door the window hits the outside of the top frame....am I doing something wrong? I can manipulate it a bit and get it to shut within the frame and seal correctly but it would be better to see the window go down 2" when I get out of the car and shut the door.....then go up after I have shut the door....if that makes any sense.
Very common issue. The window should drop slightly. Do a search on the forum.

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