Quote:
Originally Posted by husker boxster
+1 on fail safe. I understand having the rear a certain height to get the motor out, but I think it would be safer to have the front height match the rear.
As far as what to do while the engine is out, now would be an easy time to do the water pump, serp belt, and AOS. Don't know your prev maint history, but seems these 3 items would be no-brainers with the motor out.
|
I was thinking the same and am going to lift the front a bit higher and pull the fronts and stack them on top of the rears a little farther back. The engineered lumber stands will also help.
I have previously installed a new water pump, thermostat, plugs, coils, coil tubes/o-rings, 997 T and 74mm throttle body, and catless headers. I had also rebuilt the brake calipers and installed braided lines when I painted the calipers. It is a bit ironic that I have now drained the coolant and brake fluid three times in two years.
I will do the AOS for sure and inspect AOS and SAI lines and replace what looks like it needs it. I will also remove the oil pump and install a new pump drive that I made out of a Bondhus Protanium 8mm hex key in addtion to the relief piston/spring. In removing the engine I did break the plastic dipstick tube as it is very cold at my house now. The thing snapped like a matchstick. Also in moving the engine out it fell a little forward and cracked the coolant tube so I will replace that.
What I am considering in addition to the cam adjuster pads, due to the camshaft deviation, is replacing the chain paddles and tensioners. Do the tensioners weaken and contribute to cam deviation? I see the tensioners have gone through a series of changes. Do the chain paddles wear like the adjustment pads?
Threaded Mode
