Engine Removal
 

Before I drained my oil and dropped the transmission to install a deep sump, ims, rms, etc, I did a Durametric read and found my cam deviation on bank 2 to be -7.4. I had never checked it before and upon seeing it I was a little bummed. I was not mentally prepared to tackle fixing it but knowing I need to before doing the ims.

I dropped the pan and found lots of brown cam pad bits. Grrrrrr..... Car has 66k miles and needs pads. Good thing I love this car....

Because I needed to drop the transmission for the work anyway it was a quick decision to drop the engine too to do the work on a stand.

I don’t have a lift and don’t like extending jack stands more than a couple of holes. I also don’t like using stands other than Esco style because of fear or the car sliding off the normal jack stand seats. So I wanted share how I got the car high enough to pull the engine out after dropping it without removing the cross member or removing the bumper.

My neighbor and fellow Porsche owner is a GC and we decided to build some stands for the jackstands and also the jack (jack max lift is not high enough). We used some leftover engineered lumber, construction adhesive, and 4” screws. Stands were designed to give a foot in height.

Jackstand stand top and bottom plates are 2 x 12” microlam beams cut 10” in length. Uprights are 3 x 10” gluelam beams cut 8” in length. All mating surfaces were given a healthy bead of construction adhesive and each corner fastened with 3 4” screws top and bottom. We cut additional lengths of microlams for additional height.

The platform for the jack is the same microlam beam cut a few inches longer than the jack with 6x6” uprights with some notches and strips to keep the jack centered.

When we were done building them my friend said ‘you could park your house on these.’

Some pics. The cross member is 31” high.

https://i.ibb.co/C1jVPw3/943-A8818-F...145-C8-ED2.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/s6CLFRc/71-F27195-8...B589-EBBE3.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/WDcDh4P/D9-D5549-E-...D47-D079-B.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/BtXJXN8/655-CCE3-D-...3038-E76-E.jpg

Now I am trying to decide on what additional work I should do with the engine out without going way overboard as I tend to do.

What work have you all done after engine removal to make balancing time/cost and at the same time not regretting omitting something?

Impressive, can I order a set?

NICE!
Good to have good neighbors!

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Two words....fail safe. If the car comes off the stands how do you stay alive? I like the tires placed under the car, is there something else you can do to ensure stability? As a safety professional, we teach fail safe and essential verification when energy poses a significant risk. Just food for thought, not being critical. All the best in your project.

+1 on fail safe. I understand having the rear a certain height to get the motor out, but I think it would be safer to have the front height match the rear. With the motor and trans out, the weight of the car now shifts to the front. Seems it would be easier for it to want to slide forward off the stands with the front being lower. Maybe it's just an optical illusion in your pics and the front matches the rear. If not, you might want to match them.

As far as what to do while the engine is out, now would be an easy time to do the water pump, serp belt, and AOS. Don't know your prev maint history, but seems these 3 items would be no-brainers with the motor out.

I was thinking the same and am going to lift the front a bit higher and pull the fronts and stack them on top of the rears a little farther back. The engineered lumber stands will also help.

I have previously installed a new water pump, thermostat, plugs, coils, coil tubes/o-rings, 997 T and 74mm throttle body, and catless headers. I had also rebuilt the brake calipers and installed braided lines when I painted the calipers. It is a bit ironic that I have now drained the coolant and brake fluid three times in two years.

I will do the AOS for sure and inspect AOS and SAI lines and replace what looks like it needs it. I will also remove the oil pump and install a new pump drive that I made out of a Bondhus Protanium 8mm hex key in addtion to the relief piston/spring. In removing the engine I did break the plastic dipstick tube as it is very cold at my house now. The thing snapped like a matchstick. Also in moving the engine out it fell a little forward and cracked the coolant tube so I will replace that.

What I am considering in addition to the cam adjuster pads, due to the camshaft deviation, is replacing the chain paddles and tensioners. Do the tensioners weaken and contribute to cam deviation? I see the tensioners have gone through a series of changes. Do the chain paddles wear like the adjustment pads?

I would do the coolant resevior while the engine is out if it's even remotely needed. Also a 987 airbox is a good intake upgrade if you want to make an improvement too. I also replaced the fuel filter last time the coolant was drained. A little easier to do that way.