Best price for Zimmerman Cross Drilled Rotors (non-S)

[ct_boxster]

Which vendor's have the best prices on new rotors? Have used EPIQ for pads and brake hardware. Can't tell whether their prices are for single rotor or pair. I am assuming single rotors.
Any suggestions?

ct_boxster, during your purchase, you might want to consider the OEM parts vs. aftermarket. I read recently that some (all?) aftermarket rotors don't have a painted (rim, shank...don't rember the actual part) portion like the actual Porsche part, and this adds extra dirt to your wheels and looks unsightly, due to rusting. Just an FYI. I think I saw this over on RennTech.

This is what I am talking about:

https://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.asp?id={1E8F3D4E-342D-4E31-BDCF-2ED36F3224D3}

I don't know why the PSC Tech Section link is not working. Here is the Q&A:

"I recently (900 miles) had a complete (all 4 rotors) brake pad and rotor change on my Boxster. The components are now rusty (the brake rotor flanges) and look terrible. There is excellent braking but when you look at my car, the blarring rust is evident. The shop I did the work says its normal. I cannot see other cars looking as bad as mine. Was there cheap parts used on my car, or is this typical? If it is typical, what is the solution? I cannot believe that this is standard?

Sam


The factory rotors and after-market rotors will rust on the surface that the pads travel on. When you first apply the brakes they will clean up again and this is normal on all the Porsches.
Now the factory rotors are painted on the hubs and the rotor edges so that they do not rust. The after-market ones are often not and will rust on the entire unit.

Scott Slauson - PCA WebSite - 7/31/2006"

[z12358]

I don't know which kind discs are mine but they always show a coat of rust after washing. The rust gets wiped off with the first application of the brakes and doesn't appear again. Always good to have a coat of wax on the wheels (inside barrels too) to ensure the rust doesn't stick to them.

[Adam]

At the last auto x I was looking at a 996 with Zimmerman rotors. The "hats" of the rotors were rusty just like the guy described in that PCA Q&A Busmatti posted. Other than that they "look" just like my rotors but the rust does look terrible. When the time comes to replace mine I think I will call the dealership and pay extra for the OEM stuff.

[EPIQTodd]

We have both options on our site - http://www.epiqautosport.com/pro_boxster_rotors_front.php - and descriptions of what is what.

If you find a better price, know that we will do our best to match it. We try to place all of our pricing with Pelican, etc., but obviously serving only Boxsters means we have less volume and don't get the same discount rates.

[Adam]

145 per oem rotor Todd? I will definately be in touch with you on a purchase. My fronts already have a "lip" on the edge but I think they have a few miles left in them. No pulsations or wobble yet.

[EPIQTodd]

Originally Posted by Adam

145 per oem rotor Todd? I will definately be in touch with you on a purchase. My fronts already have a "lip" on the edge but I think they have a few miles left in them. No pulsations or wobble yet.

The base Boxster rotors are even cheaper - $125 per rotor.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by Adam

145 per oem rotor Todd? I will definately be in touch with you on a purchase. My fronts already have a "lip" on the edge but I think they have a few miles left in them. No pulsations or wobble yet.

Hi,

The appearance of a lip is not a good measure of whether your rotors are within spec or not. You need a micrometer (under $25 on eBay) and use it to check the rotor thickness in several places. These can also be machined at least once. The spec is:

• Front Rear
  
  New 24mm (0.94 in.) 20mm (0.79 in.)
  
  Wear Limit 22.6mm (0.89 in.) 18.6mm (0.73 in.)
  
  Machining Limit 22mm (0.87 in.) 18mm (0.71 in.)

Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[Adam]

Excellent info....Thanks Jim.