Calling on Master Mechanics… Again.

[Jager]

I successfully replaced the chain tensioners on my 2001 Boxster this weekend but the deviation on bank 2 did not get under 6 degrees… What can cause this? Chain? Solenoid? Thanks

[Gelbster]

Remember "7 links apart" ? It is very easy when refitting the camshafts (particularly Bank 2) to have the chain slip 1 tooth. You need to use a paint Marker pen on both sprockets and both links. Even so, it is very difficult to check your work on Bank 2.
How did you confirm that Bank 2 Solenoid and Actuator are functioning correctly?
Did you dismantle the Actuator?
Replacing the Tensioner for Bank 2 is quite difficult -access. Did you soak it first?
Check some of the Threads by dporto in 996 Section for "hard reset".
If your Durametric reading is with a cold engine it may be misleading
This could take a while to diagnose. Ask me .........

[Pdwight]

Did you do this while the engine was in your car ??

And one more question please, after replacing the tensioners / does the engine still rattle when first started cold...I have always been curious about this

[78F350]

Myself, not even being a YouTube certified mechanic, did similar work on an Audi V8. Rather than just changing the pads, I replace the entire tensioner on both sides. After putting it back together and turning the crank, the link count was off by 1/2 link on one side. Turned out I had the tensioners on the wrong side. They fit and looked identical other than the part number. Any chance you swapped the tensioners?

[Jager]

Gelbster,
Remember "7 links apart" ? It is very easy when refitting the camshafts (particularly Bank 2) to have the chain slip 1 tooth. You need to use a paint Marker pen on both sprockets and both links. - The chain had different color links to line-up with the marks on the cams, I'm positive chain position is not the issue here.

How did you confirm that Bank 2 Solenoid and Actuator are functioning correctly? - I did not confirm the actuators are functioning, that's why I am wondering if these readings are an indication of a failed actuator.

Did you dismantle the Actuator? - No

Replacing the Tensioner for Bank 2 is quite difficult -access. Did you soak it first? - I did not find it anymore difficult and no I did not soak them.
Check some of the Threads by dporto in 996 Section for "hard reset". - Thanks
If your Durametric reading is with a cold engine it may be misleading - The engine was warm.

Pdwight,
Did you do this while the engine was in your car ?? - Yes

And one more question please, after replacing the tensioners / does the engine still rattle when first started cold...I have always been curious about this -The engine starts better and runs better, probably because timing better overall, and it idles smoother. I never seem to have too much rattle during start-up before, maybe a couple seconds.

78F350,
Any chance you swapped the tensioners? - No, if you look closely at the last photo you can see one of the pads has a set of holes for oil feeds. Under that pad is an O-ring that fits between the pad and tensioner. They fit tight and did not come off after I installed them.

[Jager]

I tried to activate the solenoids (engine running) with my Durametric and there was no response. I did a hard reset by disconnecting the "+" side cable from the battery and grounding it. Then when I restarted the engine and used the Durametric to activate the solenoids the motor almost stopped when I activated each side. So it seems both solenoids are working. Then I checked the cam deviation and there was no change.

[Paul]

I got similar results when changing out those pads.

[Jager]

Originally Posted by Paul

I got similar results when changing out those pads.

Paul,
Did you go back and try to re-time Bank 1?

I have been contemplating pulling the oil pump on Bank 2 and trying to get the timing a little better. Six degrees at the crank is only three degrees at the cam.

[Paul]

Yes, it's on my going to do someday list.

[Paul]

I suspect the real issue is a worn chain and tensioner pad from the IMS to the head.