Small foam pieces blowing from vents

[Alfieg23]

I have almost eliminated this issue by doing the following.

1. Close all A/C vents
2. Turn A/C on HIGH with air direction straight out (no upper or lower stream)
3. Turn vacuum cleaner on and place nozzle brush against each vent, opening only that vent.
4. Close vent and repeat with other dash vents.

The air pressure forced the foam pieces to come out of each vent. I did this over a year ago and have had only a couple of small pieces come out since. I may need to do this again at some point, depending on how much foam was left behind and when it deteriorates.

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by Alfieg23

I have almost eliminated this issue by doing the following.

1. Close all A/C vents
2. Turn A/C on HIGH with air direction straight out (no upper or lower stream)
3. Turn vacuum cleaner on and place nozzle brush against each vent, opening only that vent.
4. Close vent and repeat with other dash vents.

The air pressure forced the foam pieces to come out of each vent. I did this over a year ago and have had only a couple of small pieces come out since. I may need to do this again at some point, depending on how much foam was left behind and when it deteriorates.

The problem with this is that the flaps have holes.

[Gelbster]

Originally Posted by Alfieg23

I have almost eliminated this issue by doing the following.

1. Close all A/C vents
2. Turn A/C on HIGH with air direction straight out (no upper or lower stream)
3. Turn vacuum cleaner on and place nozzle brush against each vent, opening only that vent.
4. Close vent and repeat with other dash vents.

The air pressure forced the foam pieces to come out of each vent. I did this over a year ago and have had only a couple of small pieces come out since. I may need to do this again at some point, depending on how much foam was left behind and when it deteriorates.

What pity this does not work well ! Particlewave explained why .
But suppose you install a simple,direct,hand operated valve on the hot coolant inlet hose to the heater core .That would prevent warming of the a/c air. Anyone tried this? Where is the best location for such a valve ? It should be simple to just use a Home Depot valve with a hose barb at each side.
This one even has some bling ! Would tke 20 mins max to do
SharkBite 3/8 in. Chrome-Plated Brass PEX Barb Quarter-Turn Straight Stop-23382LF - The Home Depot
or search AmaZon for "3/8 barb x barb valve" Maybe 1/2" is the correct size? It is easy to just rummage at H.D.Plumbing Dept with a sample of your heater hose in hand and get separate barb fittings to connect to a standard,straight brass valve.

If this would work it would be a good interim fix because the procedures described above would take many hours of careful work.
While you are in there jobs? - the horn ring fix !
Feel free to improve on the suggestion

[Alfieg23]

The process I suggested is not to be done while driving so it does not affect the air temperature while driving. I did it to see if it resolved the frequent pieces of foam from shooting out the vents. I open each vent with the A/C on full blast for maybe 5 minutes each with the vacuum on and its nozzle brush flush against the open vent (and the other vents closed). After I repeat this with each vent, I then open all the vents and resume using the A/C as usual. I have only had a couple of small pieces of foam come out in over a year which I think is pretty good.

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by Alfieg23

The process I suggested is not to be done while driving so it does not affect the air temperature while driving. I did it to see if it resolved the frequent pieces of foam from shooting out the vents. I open each vent with the A/C on full blast for maybe 5 minutes each with the vacuum on and its nozzle brush flush against the open vent (and the other vents closed). After I repeat this with each vent, I then open all the vents and resume using the A/C as usual. I have only had a couple of small pieces of foam come out in over a year which I think is pretty good.

I think you missed the point.
Without installing new material on the flaps to replace the lost foam, the diverter flaps won't divert correctly.
Your AC will be blowing over the hot heater core, at least partially, making the AC not as cold as it could/should be.

[Gelbster]

More on the quick-fix or work-around involving the heater valve.
The heater valve is accessible via the passenger side rear wheel arch (remove wheel).
The Heater valve may also be accessible from above via the engine compartment(remove cover and grope).
Here is a kind guy who posted a video showing replacement of the valve so it gives all the grimy details:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SC198GztmvE
The important part of the video is where he shows how the 2 halves of the plastic valve just fall apart and dump coolant !
Please note the stock plastic heater valve tends to separate where it is glued together, then leaks . That could cause a catastrophic engine failure.
Napa sell a vacuum-operated part that looks similar to the OEM part and is mainly metal with a better crimp:
BK 6601410.
But Four Seasons or Everco sell an all metal vacuum controlled heater control valve that may fit??? It is part # 74671. This valve also fits Audis + some 90's Fords according to Posts in other Forums. The Porsche 944/968 guys use it as an upgrade.
An alternative in all metal intended for 12mm i.d. heater hose is to search "Van Heater Control Valve Kit C3UZ18495A YG133 For FORD E & F SERIES BRONCO DODGE" Just rotate the lever to either block (summer)or allow(winter) coolant to reach the heater core.

To understand why this hack may be a delightfully easy suggestion , read this lengthy, difficult how to:
Interior vent debris
There are some useful links there posted by Mr.Stone.

Another detailed link of the full repair process.
https://www.scribd.com/document/212147792/986-Heater-Flap-Repair-Boxster-foam
Another from Forum Member Meir:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hx9qr0t3jtkv6th/986%20Heater%20Flap%20Repair.pdf?dl=0

There is a simpler way(78F350 in post 9 below) to access the offending flaps in this link and also in this thread:Interior vent debris
The simpler system link does require cutting and this is clearly shown in the hi res photos.
You need this tape to do the job well: 3M Flue tape
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4DS

But whatever you do, replace the risky OEM part to avoid the leakage

[78F350]

Gelbster, anyone who can't follow the simple instructions I posted earlier in this thread for accessing and repairing the HVAC flaps behind the stereo unit probably shouldn't attempt to take their wheels off or look for heater valves. I can see potential for damage. Besides, why disable the unit when it is easier to repair?

[Gelbster]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Gelbster, anyone who can't follow the simple instructions I posted earlier in this thread for accessing and repairing the HVAC flaps behind the stereo unit probably shouldn't attempt to take their wheels off or look for heater valves. I can see potential for damage. Besides, why disable the unit when it is easier to repair?

It isn't disabling it.It is a seasonal shut-off.Manually operated Was common on older cars .
At least replace the aging heater control valve?
The listed parts will operate with vacuum exactly like the original part and last longer,without the P-car tax:
"Napa sell a vacuum-operated part that looks similar to the OEM part and is mainly metal with a better crimp:
BK 6601410.
But Four Seasons or Everco sell an all metal vacuum controlled heater control valve that may fit??? It is part # 74671. This valve also fits Audis + some 90's Fords according to Posts in other Forums. The Porsche 944/968 guys use it as an upgrade. "
The OEM part # is (but check!) 92857457303. It is $30. But it is all plastic and glued together.

[ctimgo]

Did you or anybody else try the cutoff valve for the heater core? If so how did it work? Thanks