Water pump longevity ????

[Giller]

Originally Posted by 10/10ths

...for water pumps is TIME, not mileage based.

One of the failure modes is the plastic blades breaking down and bits of them floating around and blocking the coolant passages. That is bad.

But, like the others have posted, you do NOT want metal blades for the reasons they cited.

So, you must just own the idea that you must R&R the pump with a fresh OEM unit every FOUR years.

Do that, and you will be fine.

???? Every 4 years regardless of mileage? Where do you get this from? That makes no sense. Yes, age plays a factor, but mileage = the useage and that's what wears it out. Hence why most change it when they would do the timing belt ( or in our case, around that 100 k mark). 4 years....man....

[78F350]

Originally Posted by Giller

???? Every 4 years regardless of mileage? Where do you get this from? That makes no sense. Yes, age plays a factor, but mileage = the useage and that's what wears it out. Hence why most change it when they would do the timing belt ( or in our case, around that 100 k mark). 4 years....man....

Here's one place where Jake R. says to change them every 3 years:
Water pump: plastic impeller or metal? - Page 2 - Rennlist Discussion Forums
Lots of discussion on our forum over the last couple years too.
Personally, I plan to change mine about every 3 years. In doing so, I feel fine about using a metal impeller pump and flushing out my Prestone coolant . Still, you can get Pierburg at a good price if you shop around.

[78F350]

...and here are two OEM water pumps that I've pulled from cars shortly after purchasing them:



A 'new-to-me' Boxster will get a new pump and flush unless it has a recently documented replacement.

[CN58]

Posted a few days ago about installing a pump w/ a metal impeller. Live and learn, I guess.. Do more investigating before purchasing parts for these cars, especially something engine related.. Asking questions is never a bad idea.. Plenty of people way smarted than me out there.

Anyway, pulled the "brand new metal impeller pump" and installed a Pierburg w/ a composite impeller. Works great.. Getting to be an expert on pulling and installing these pumps.. Thanks again for the insight, feel better about things.. Pumps are cheap compared to engines..

As I post earlier I also installed a 71C (160F) stat when I did the first pump.. I agree with JFP in Pa after running the car with the new 71C stat vs. the old 83C stat.. The temp needle now sits just just a hair behind the 180 degree mark after running and letting sit for 25 minutes idling and some minor revving.. It never moved past that mark.. With the old stat the needle sat about 1/4" past the 180 degree mark and would creep up on warmer days.. As I said earlier the old factory pump looked perfect at 91K, so I'm sure the circulation was always there.. I never liked how warm it ran before.

This improvement, I feel, is all T-stat.. More driving to do, but at this point I would recommend the 71C stat.. Inexpensive and really pretty easy to do..

Thanks to all for info and sharing experiences.. Knowledge is power..