My mistake... anyway... lockout of the car... battery not connected and front closed....
NO latch cord behind the front divers wheel... LHD... 2001 US import... had to use the OT method of direct power in fuse box which did the job... but no freaking latch... strange..
I have tried to boost it through the little thingy in the fuse box and grounding it on the door latch.
I have tried to jump it too.
I also tried to wedge a screwdriver in there.
Any help would be VERY appreciated.
I found the cable on the 2001 Boxster it was in the front of the car, you have to go from under the car if you don't see it remove the plastic. Use good lighting, I couldn't find it, but then I noticed a thin shadow of the cable and finally located. Jack up the car if you have too
When I had the front bumper cover off to clean my radiators, I re-routed the cable to behind the tow hook cover plug. That has come in handy once so far, when I had a dead battery. I just popped the cover open and pulled the cable to release the hood.
The cable on my 98 is in the passenger fender well, accessible with passenger door open. Seems like they can be and have been routed just about anywhere one desires. Haha.
Putting it under the tow hook cover is a good idea.
2002 Boxster S, played it safe and unhooked battery before working on engine, then closed hood, never got around working on engine, this is a nightmare, I cannot find emergency cable anywhere. I've been fighting with wheel well on driver's side, unable to take off wheels because lug adapter is under hood. Any ideas how to open my hood??
Thanks !
2002 Boxster S, played it safe and unhooked battery before working on engine, then closed hood, never got around working on engine, this is a nightmare, I cannot find emergency cable anywhere. I've been fighting with wheel well on driver's side, unable to take off wheels because lug adapter is under hood. Any ideas how to open my hood??
Thanks !
Okay, number one, the emergency release cable is on the right side, passenger side, not driver side. If you aren’t the original owner the cable may have been rerouted to behind the front bumper toe hook access. Check there. If it isn’t then crank your wheels as far to the right as you can and you should get some access to the wheel well liners and remove some of the plastic retainers. The cable should be tucked up inside the fender below the headlight assembly.
Once you get things back up and running, reroute the cable to behind the toe hook and keep your tool kit, with the lug nut lock, behind your seat where you can get at it if the battery fails.
Also, this issue has been discussed many many times so further searches may yield some other suggestions. Good luck.
You are not the first and you won't be the last. The nightmare will be over soon. I have a narrow garage and I was physically pin between my wheel and wall to get into the wheel well from the passenger side. Follow the instructions given for the passenger side wheel well. I find that turning the wheel inwards as much as possible to gain more arm access helps. Like others said, you should re-route it to somewhere you find more comfortable to get to in case it happens again.
I believe the emergency trunk release cable on the driver side wheel well and I could be wrong is for UK models.
Last edited by 1PorscheBoxster986; 05-28-2020 at 07:45 AM.
no luck there either. Just wondering, I unhooked the ground wire on the battery, I'm wondering if the "jump" method would work just to open the lid.
If not I smell tow truck.
All this and all I wanted to do was change air filter!!
For future ref...
I have a small, square piece of 2x4 in my garage. If I ever disconnect the battery, the FIRST thing I do is to place that in the are where the latch comes down when the frunk hood is closed. Having the problem once was plenty.
Just out of curiosity, why would you disconnect the battery just to change the air filter?
This method will work regardless of the battery, but it's a lot of work. Take the driver's seat out and remove the blue connector from the security module under the seat. Connect a source of +12 volts to pin #31 on that connector and ground the other end of your power source to the car.
Video video from my flood car frunk opening:
__________________ I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
When I had the front bumper cover off to clean my radiators, I re-routed the cable to behind the tow hook cover plug. That has come in handy once so far, when I had a dead battery. I just popped the cover open and pulled the cable to release the hood.
Great idea. Will do this on mine ASAP just in case!
This happened to me too just the other month! Won't happen again lol. I called AAA and they can connect a jump to the fuse panel for the fuse that governs the front release...
My jumper cables were locked in the frunk too... lol
Opening frunk with dead battery on 1997 Boxster 986
If you own a '97 Boxster (or a year that does not have the red jumper attachment on the fuse box), here is easiest way to open frunk without having to remove parts to get to the mechanical cable pull:
1) Make a small jumper using insulated 12 gauge solid copper wire. Strip 1/2 inch insulation and use a hammer to flatten both ends to fit into fuse location (about 1/8 inch wide). Also strip about 1 inch insulation in the middle. Bend the jumper into a U-shape. (see photo)
2) Remove C3 fuse (Row C - 3rd row down, 3rd fuse over from left, s/b 15 amp - Function is "Control unit for central locking system, alarm system")
3) Insert both flat ends of wire jumper into now vacant 15A fuse ports, one in each fuse "receiver".
4) Connect 12V source to bare center strip on wire jumper
5) Turn key in driver side door lock a few times open and close. Frunk (and trunk) levers next to driver seat should now open the enclosures.
6) Disconnect temporary items, reinstall fuse, and access battery for charge.
Hope this helps someone
Last edited by ralphthedawg; 10-28-2024 at 03:17 PM.
If you own a '97 Boxster (or a year that does not have the red jumper attachment on the fuse box), here is easiest way to open frunk without having to remove parts to get to the mechanical cable pull:
1) Make a small jumper using insulated 12 gauge solid copper wire. Strip 1/2 inch insulation and use a hammer to flatten both ends to fit into fuse location (about 1/8 inch wide). Also strip about 1 inch insulation in the middle. Bend the jumper into a U-shape. (see photo)
2) Remove C3 fuse (Row C - 3rd row down, 3rd fuse over from left, s/b 15 amp - Function is "Control unit for central locking system, alarm system")
3) Insert both flat ends of wire jumper into now vacant 15A fuse ports, one in each fuse "receiver".
4) Connect 12V source to bare center strip on wire jumper
5) Turn key in driver side door lock a few times open and close. Frunk (and trunk) levers next to driver seat should now open the enclosures.
6) Disconnect temporary items, reinstall fuse, and access battery for charge.
Hope this helps someone
Might work and ingenuity always appreciated. FWIW, would recommend only inserting wire into 'load' side of fuse female slot if using this method.
Alternatively...
use a very thin flathead screwdriver (between the frunk and rear release levers on driver door sill) and delicately rotate white plastic lock 90 degrees allowing levers to articulate and therefore open frunk and/or rear trunk lid. Works thru MY2000 (maybe 2002?) as I recall before Porsche moved over to electric switch controlled releases.