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Old 09-12-2016, 04:27 PM   #1
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Parts list for engine rebuild

Hi!

After finding some metal debris on my last oil change, I've started rebuilding my engine (97 2.5, 40K miles). I've found that the debris to be from a previous repair, and everything is ok inside the engine.

Where can I get a complete list of all the replacement parts needed to rebuild it?

Here's what I gathered so far:

Piston Ring Set. Code: 99610303302/1
(Shouldn't be reused, right?)
Engine Gasket Set. Code: 98610090500
going to be replaced
Main Crankshaft Bearing Shell Standard.
Looks good, doesn't seem to need replacement.
Water pump
Looks good, but I'm thinking of replacing it
Big End Bearing Shell. Code: 99610312162
Slightly scuffed, going to be replaced
Timing Chain. Code: 99610517157
No usage marks.
Valve Oil Stem Seal. Code: 99610511552
Seals good, not going to be replaced
Chain Guide. Code: 99610517353
going to be replaced
Chain Guide. Code: 99610517552
going to be replaced
Engine Head Gasket Cylinder 4-6 no. 99610416903
going to be replaced
Engine Head Gasket Cylinder 1-3 no. 99610417009
going to be replaced
Tensioner Blade U-Shaped Code: 99610516651
going to be replaced

I'll post some pics later.


Last edited by urban; 09-12-2016 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 09-12-2016, 05:14 PM   #2
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Can someone move this post to Performance and Technical chat, please?
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:06 AM   #3
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Piston rings - replacement usually a bad idea.Do Search
Replace Knock sensors because if you need to do it later it is very tedious
Fit an LN Filter
You have the old style timing chains - do a search-problems
Remember to use the correct sealants, threadlocker and replacement bolts where specified.
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:39 AM   #4
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You have 5 timing chains and (off the top of my head) 10 different wear pads.

You also need to budget the tools required for assembly of the engine. No way would I be that deep without replacing everything which directly contacts the crankshaft.

Oil injector nozzles are another thing I blew off until last minute before assembly.
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:43 AM   #5
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Quote:
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Oil injector nozzles are another thing I blew off until last minute before assembly.
Flaps, did you replaced the oil injector nozzles? I assumed that these were not a wearable item..
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:51 AM   #6
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You need to replace all cylinder head bolts. They are not reusable.

Did you measure the roundness of the cylinders?
Did you check the valve seats?
Did you check the chain tensioners?
Did you check the hydraulic lifters?

Regards, Markus
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Old 09-13-2016, 12:58 PM   #7
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The injector nozzles can plug up.FOM as J R phrases it. I cleaned mine out,flushed ,compressed air,prodded and poked at them. Really had no clue how else to test them. They seemed to all function perfectly ,so left them in. I was apprehensive that the R&R process could create a problem. And I already had plenty !

Last edited by Gelbster; 09-13-2016 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 09-13-2016, 01:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Flaps, did you replaced the oil injector nozzles? I assumed that these were not a wearable item..
Yes. About half of mine were plugged solid.

Our friend smallblock454 is correct on all counts. Ditto the rod bolts and bearing carrier bolts.

You can measure roundness of the bores but you can't do crap about it without sleeving the case halves. At 40k miles I hope to crap the OP's bores are still roundish.

The OP asked about rings. They're super expensive for OEM and you can't really scuff up the bore in the traditional way to seat the new ones.

One of these days I'm going to start with good case halves and send them to LN for sleeves. Their price includes sleeving your case halves, and it comes back with pistons and rings. Do the math, it's the best deal going.
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Old 09-13-2016, 01:16 PM   #9
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I would not reuse the valve stem seals PC seals are cheap and easy to replace.

Isn't there some issue with the rod bolts on these engines? Good time to throw some ARP bolts in!

Oops. Sorry Flaps! didn't see the rod bolts you mentioned!
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Old 09-13-2016, 02:46 PM   #10
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Don't bother with the rings. Mine had good leak down at 120k miles and a set is $1200. Just clean everything and put each ring back where it came from.
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Old 09-13-2016, 03:31 PM   #11
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How did you clean out all of the metal debris?

This is the MOST important factor in rebuilding an engine that had already started to fail.
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Old 09-13-2016, 06:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
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How did you clean out all of the metal debris?

This is the MOST important factor in rebuilding an engine that had already started to fail.
Good point here. Lots of folks use ultrasonic and say it's the best. They are likely correct but I've had parts come back broken after sending them out for work so I clean the parts myself. A rare earth magnet is very effective at pulling ferrous chips off aluminum.

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