Parts list for engine rebuild
Hi!
After finding some metal debris on my last oil change, I've started rebuilding my engine (97 2.5, 40K miles). I've found that the debris to be from a previous repair, and everything is ok inside the engine. Where can I get a complete list of all the replacement parts needed to rebuild it? Here's what I gathered so far: Piston Ring Set. Code: 99610303302/1 (Shouldn't be reused, right?) Engine Gasket Set. Code: 98610090500 going to be replaced Main Crankshaft Bearing Shell Standard. Looks good, doesn't seem to need replacement. Water pump Looks good, but I'm thinking of replacing it Big End Bearing Shell. Code: 99610312162 Slightly scuffed, going to be replaced Timing Chain. Code: 99610517157 No usage marks. Valve Oil Stem Seal. Code: 99610511552 Seals good, not going to be replaced Chain Guide. Code: 99610517353 going to be replaced Chain Guide. Code: 99610517552 going to be replaced Engine Head Gasket Cylinder 4-6 no. 99610416903 going to be replaced Engine Head Gasket Cylinder 1-3 no. 99610417009 going to be replaced Tensioner Blade U-Shaped Code: 99610516651 going to be replaced I'll post some pics later. |
Can someone move this post to Performance and Technical chat, please?
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Piston rings - replacement usually a bad idea.Do Search
Replace Knock sensors because if you need to do it later it is very tedious Fit an LN Filter You have the old style timing chains - do a search-problems Remember to use the correct sealants, threadlocker and replacement bolts where specified. |
You have 5 timing chains and (off the top of my head) 10 different wear pads.
You also need to budget the tools required for assembly of the engine. No way would I be that deep without replacing everything which directly contacts the crankshaft. Oil injector nozzles are another thing I blew off until last minute before assembly. |
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You need to replace all cylinder head bolts. They are not reusable.
Did you measure the roundness of the cylinders? Did you check the valve seats? Did you check the chain tensioners? Did you check the hydraulic lifters? Regards, Markus |
The injector nozzles can plug up.FOM as J R phrases it. I cleaned mine out,flushed ,compressed air,prodded and poked at them. Really had no clue how else to test them. They seemed to all function perfectly ,so left them in. I was apprehensive that the R&R process could create a problem. And I already had plenty !
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Our friend smallblock454 is correct on all counts. Ditto the rod bolts and bearing carrier bolts. You can measure roundness of the bores but you can't do crap about it without sleeving the case halves. At 40k miles I hope to crap the OP's bores are still roundish. The OP asked about rings. They're super expensive for OEM and you can't really scuff up the bore in the traditional way to seat the new ones. One of these days I'm going to start with good case halves and send them to LN for sleeves. Their price includes sleeving your case halves, and it comes back with pistons and rings. Do the math, it's the best deal going. |
I would not reuse the valve stem seals PC seals are cheap and easy to replace.
Isn't there some issue with the rod bolts on these engines? Good time to throw some ARP bolts in! Oops. Sorry Flaps! didn't see the rod bolts you mentioned! |
Don't bother with the rings. Mine had good leak down at 120k miles and a set is $1200. Just clean everything and put each ring back where it came from.
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How did you clean out all of the metal debris?
This is the MOST important factor in rebuilding an engine that had already started to fail. |
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