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Old 08-16-2016, 01:54 PM   #1
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You understand Canadian customs very well... but it would be rude of me to point out that I'd been offended

He can take me in his Porsche - I'll reciprocate and take him out in my NAS Land Rover Defender 90. Or the Range Rover.. either way, it's a different kind of fun.

Appreciate all the recommendations to do a PPI - None of the local dealers want to do one, so I'm going to contact the local PCA chapter (yes, there's a few Canadian Chapters!) and start asking a lot of questions.

The only dealer that was interested in doing something like a PPI was offering a 110-point inspection, plus a 4-5 hour compression and leak-down test @ $159/hour... and I thought Land Rover dealerships had expensive shop rates! LOL

I also have a sailboat, so I'm familiar with shredding hundred dollar bills and getting wet...




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Originally Posted by 78F350 View Post
If I understand Canadian customs correctly, Mark_T has offended you and is now obligated to take you out to Timmy's and make reparations. Have him let you drive his car.



Like any 10+ year old used car, some are good, some are bad. If you are not familiar with them, hire a professional to do a pre-purchase inspection.

I generally buy them wrecked or highly depreciated at my own risk. I enjoy doing most of my own work, short of machine shop stuff. Competent shops that work on these cars charge a bit over $100/hour for labor and will not discount your parts. That makes a big difference in whether a problem is cheap or expensive to fix.

Very common problems:
-Missing/broken plastic panels on the undercarriage.
-Malfunctioning windows.
-Airbag system failure (most commonly seat belt wiring).
-Horn contact failure.
-Water pump failure.
-Coolant expansion tank (or cap) leak.
-Brake wear.
-Uneven tire wear.
-Worn suspension parts - rear trailing arms especially.
-Broken parts in the top mechanism - gears, cables, and linkage.
-Blocked drains. Leads to: Wet padding under carpet, failed immobilizer box, corrosion inside brake booster, and more.
-S models commonly have a problem with 2nd gear pop-out
-Spark plug tubes leak. (1997-2002)
-Alternator bearings/idler pulleys seize.
-The Air Oil Separators fail internally and dump oil directly into the intake.

Those are just some of the most common, easy to fix things that I have found on my cars. There's plenty more scary stuff that is less common:
-Failed hydraulic lifters.
-Bad chain tensioners.
-Sheared crankshaft.
-Oil pump failures.
-VarioCam actuator failure.
-Connecting rod bolt failure.
-Rear main seal failure.
Most of these can lead to a repair cost of thousands of dollars (or Very Many thousands of Canadian dollars).

My advice: Buy one that looks pretty and drive it hard. Consider your money gone. For me, it somehow worked out better than my investment in the Oil and Gas industry.
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Old 08-16-2016, 02:26 PM   #2
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None of the local dealers want to do one, so I'm going to contact the local PCA chapter (yes, there's a few Canadian Chapters!) and start asking a lot of questions.

The only dealer that was interested in doing something like a PPI was offering a 110-point inspection, plus a 4-5 hour compression and leak-down test @ $159/hour... and I thought Land Rover dealerships had expensive shop rates! LOL
Sadly, fewer places are doing PPIs because they don't want the liability of something breaking 1 mo later and the customer coming back to them to pay for it. Good things always go bad when lawyers get involved.

And welcome to the world of expensive German cars, but you should be aware of this world if you have an Audi.

Good luck with your search. You are heading into a good time to buy with fall approaching. Any dealer in your area with a Boxster should be willing to deal on it. They don't want to go deep into Sep with a convertible sports car on their lot.
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Old 08-16-2016, 02:32 PM   #3
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I do all my own wrench work on the Audi, unless it's electronic...

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Originally Posted by husker boxster View Post
Sadly, fewer places are doing PPIs because they don't want the liability of something breaking 1 mo later and the customer coming back to them to pay for it. Good things always go bad when lawyers get involved.

And welcome to the world of expensive German cars, but you should be aware of this world if you have an Audi.

Good luck with your search. You are heading into a good time to buy with fall approaching. Any dealer in your area with a Boxster should be willing to deal on it. They don't want to go deep into Sep with a convertible sports car on their lot.
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Old 08-16-2016, 02:38 PM   #4
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I do all my own wrench work on the Audi, unless it's electronic...
Just did both rear hub and bearings - you do NOT want to know what the torque setting is for those axle bolts... think as high as you reasonably think a bolt goes on, then add something insane, and you're getting close...
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Old 08-16-2016, 02:40 PM   #5
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Just did both rear hub and bearings - you do NOT want to know what the torque setting is for those axle bolts... think as high as you reasonably think a bolt goes on, then add something insane, and you're getting close...
What, your torque wrench doesn't go to infinity?
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Old 08-16-2016, 02:53 PM   #6
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What, your torque wrench doesn't go to infinity?

It's 150ft-lbs (ok, not too bad - my wrench goes to 250) plus a 180-degree turn (WTF??!!) The bolts are one-time use only, as the end 'twists' to set the hub just right.. and the bolts are 8.50$ each and the only place I could find them was the dealership...

I had to buy a 36" long, 1" format breaker bar with a 18mm triple square bit to get that bolt set right... INSANE. I had to stand on the bar and bounce to set it.
Took a month just to order the tools.

I'm 99.9% sure I'll never need that again. Even the hub bolts on my Rover were 202ft-lbs - no extra twist..
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Old 08-17-2016, 01:18 PM   #7
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What, your torque wrench doesn't go to infinity?
I did my axle nuts until the axle started to twist off and then I backed it out a little.
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