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Old 08-01-2016, 09:16 PM   #1
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Two oil Leaks.... Idea's?

This is my chance, to fix everything wrong with my car. I'm currently doing RMS, AOS, IMS, and Clutch. However when I pulled things apart, the clutch made a mess I had to clean. So I soaked the back side in degreaser and as much of the sides and bottom I could with a floor jack lifting my car. Everything cleaned up nicely.

However, it reminded me I have an oil leak. And looks like possibly two leaks. BUT, I want to make sure.

I know my AOS is bad, I have one on order, just waiting for it to show up. Can, or will the AOS Physically leak onto the top of the engine? or somewhere on the top have a line that could be cracked that is leaking oil onto the top of the engine? Its dripping on both sides. Mainly the side right up against where the AOS bolts down. I can only view soo much right now with my camera phone, till someone helps me remove the top.

I'm kinda thinking this is strictly AOS related. Because I know its bad and I've seen and heard it can really soak the inside of the intake manifold. So its best to take the entire manifold off and apart and clean it up. I'm sure I'll locate my leak then. But I am asking for idea's of where to look. Possibilities of what it could be that I can clean up and wait for it to leak.

OR

Would you be convinced its strictly AOS related? Here are the two pics I got.... You can see that strange canister, which IDK what it is..... Its leaking from there, around it is soaked and has puddles of oil. When I dry its base with a towel, it quickly soaks back up and you can see the oil seep through. As for behind the AOS mounting bracket, this is severely soaked, I dipped my finger in it and came out with a lot of oil. So looks like I'm going to remove the intake manifold while the car is down waiting for the IMS, plug the intake ports and degrease the top end. Just wanna know if there is a hose or something I should be on the lookout for while I'm taking things apart.



Here is the AOS bracket and top of engine.



Originally I thought these leaks were RMS related, but seems my RMS is still good, its just a lil crooked, so I decided to order a new one anyway.

Anyway, toss your idea's at me. Car runs like a champ, extremely powerful for what it is. But I do notice some idle fluctuations....

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Old 08-02-2016, 03:04 AM   #2
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I'd look at that oil cooler, it had four O-rings that seal it to the block. I seriously doubt the AOS is getting the oil on top of the engine.
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Old 08-02-2016, 04:58 AM   #3
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+1 on the oil cooler rings. Not a difficult job and really not expensive.
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Old 08-02-2016, 06:15 AM   #4
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That a pretty easy fix...other than draining the cooling system. Draining is easy, but refilling and bleeding can be a nightmare!

Easy to get to from the top:



O-rings seal these 4 ports. We had a bad oil cooler that was mixing oil with the coolant, luckily not the other way around.



New cooler installed we bought the "S" version which is a bit bigger and fits right in.



Good luck!!
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:20 PM   #5
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Well the transmission is out and engine is low... I gotta take the intake off anyway to clean It out... So prob be easy... However like I stated... It's mainly leaking from the pass side of the block. That's where the oil is puddling up... Would this oil leak here kinda river down to the pass side?

Any typical o ring work? I seriously hate these oil coolers. That are easy to crush.

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Last edited by DarkStar; 08-02-2016 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:36 PM   #6
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The O-rings are two of two different sizes, we get ours from Porsche as they are very inexpensive.

I don't know how you "crush" one of these coolers, they are pretty sturdy, and we have pulled and installed a lot of engine's over the years without any issues.
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Old 08-02-2016, 11:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA View Post
The O-rings are two of two different sizes, we get ours from Porsche as they are very inexpensive.

I don't know how you "crush" one of these coolers, they are pretty sturdy, and we have pulled and installed a lot of engine's over the years without any issues.
Well, I've heard of people talk about it. Which is very similar to a car I used to be a pro at. I've owned 9 DSM's (89-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon and Plymouth Laser) with the 2.0L Turbocharged I4 AWD.... My last one was fully built from the engine to the suspension and dyno'ed at 860whp. However, those had like a Hockey Puck looking oil cooler. A single large hollowed out bolt that would bolt it down and then the filter would bolt down on top of this. It was designed the same way. Oil lines go one way, coolant lines the other. If you tighten down the bolt too much, it could bend and crack the lines and mix the two. So I understand the issue. I've even done it on accident once before, that was a bloody mess!

Anyway. I do see the two different size. I just came on here to ask about the different sizes. **************************************** shows the two and says two is required on both part numbers. I work at a parts store so this is no issue.

Someone mentioned the bad part is draining and refilling and bleeding the coolant. Is this really necessary? Kinda looks like it is. Looks like once I unbolt this guy, oil and coolant is just going to come pouring right out of it and possibly mix the two anyway which I'll have to do both oil change and coolant flush. God I hope not! I was hoping I could possibly just drain some of each.... I gotta do an oil change anyway.... to a level where its not inside the oil cooler anymore. Pop it off, clean it all up, fill the holes, degrease, wash, let dry and re assemble. I must clean all of this. I cannot go on living knowing my engine is that dirty. It bugs me. Some people are clean freaks with houses or clothes, I'm cars. Even tho the engine isn't visible, I know it. One of my previous cars had a candy engine bay that was show quality and you could eat off of it..... I kept it spotless. I cannot accept this. So with that said, I accept and thank you all for your tips while I have this crap torn apart. Going to try to get it all looking new again.
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Old 08-02-2016, 11:40 PM   #8
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Also, not sure if I mentioned it, since I know I talk a lot hoping my descriptions give enough for someone to know exactly what I'm talking about.... But, do you believe that all this oil could seriously just be the cooler? And it somehow flowed down to the other side of the block? I know the driver side of the block is a tad higher up than the driver side. I just know there is more oil pooled up on the pass side than the driver.
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Old 08-03-2016, 02:50 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkStar View Post
Well, I've heard of people talk about it. Which is very similar to a car I used to be a pro at. I've owned 9 DSM's (89-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon and Plymouth Laser) with the 2.0L Turbocharged I4 AWD.... My last one was fully built from the engine to the suspension and dyno'ed at 860whp. However, those had like a Hockey Puck looking oil cooler. A single large hollowed out bolt that would bolt it down and then the filter would bolt down on top of this. It was designed the same way. Oil lines go one way, coolant lines the other. If you tighten down the bolt too much, it could bend and crack the lines and mix the two. So I understand the issue. I've even done it on accident once before, that was a bloody mess!

Anyway. I do see the two different size. I just came on here to ask about the different sizes. **************************************** shows the two and says two is required on both part numbers. I work at a parts store so this is no issue.

Someone mentioned the bad part is draining and refilling and bleeding the coolant. Is this really necessary? Kinda looks like it is. Looks like once I unbolt this guy, oil and coolant is just going to come pouring right out of it and possibly mix the two anyway which I'll have to do both oil change and coolant flush. God I hope not! I was hoping I could possibly just drain some of each.... I gotta do an oil change anyway.... to a level where its not inside the oil cooler anymore. Pop it off, clean it all up, fill the holes, degrease, wash, let dry and re assemble. I must clean all of this. I cannot go on living knowing my engine is that dirty. It bugs me. Some people are clean freaks with houses or clothes, I'm cars. Even tho the engine isn't visible, I know it. One of my previous cars had a candy engine bay that was show quality and you could eat off of it..... I kept it spotless. I cannot accept this. So with that said, I accept and thank you all for your tips while I have this crap torn apart. Going to try to get it all looking new again.
You will need to drain the cooling system before removing the cooler. Undo the four bolts holding it in place, lift it slightly straight up, and slide a plastic bag (folded flat) between the cooler and the engine; then wrap the bag up around the cooler and remove the cooler. The bag will catch all the oil and coolant that is still inside the unit as you remove it.
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Old 08-03-2016, 03:56 AM   #10
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On the Pass side there are at least 4 things than can be leaking:

AOS
AOS to Intake Tube
Oil Filler Tube
AOS Flex Tube

Here is the location of 3 of them



The Top one is the oil filler tube
Middle is the AOS
Bottom the AIS flex tube.

O top of the engine is another flex tube from the AOS to the intake.



The AOS tube to manifold is under the shifter cables.



While you are in there, you should change the AOS and Coolant tank if they are an unknkown.
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:55 AM   #11
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Oh, yeah sorry I thought I mentioned that's one of the parts on order. Which showed up this morning. Not the tube tho. However that is most likely the culprit. I do believe the oil cooler is leaking also but the main puddle is right against the AOS. I knew my aos was bad already which is why I ordered it. Plus because it seemed soo easy when the transmission is out as I do Clutch, RMS and IMS. I've already replaced the alternator twice because of the oil leak on this side of the motor. So I need to get this all done. I'm tired of having such a nice looking and running car with such an embarrassing fault. I plan to remove the entire intake manifold, starter which I have a new Bosch, and possibly replace the alternator again just to be safe and clean the intake tubes and plenum from all the oil.

Gawd thanks for all these ideas. I'll know more once it's apart but it gives me ideas to look forward to.

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Old 08-03-2016, 01:50 PM   #12
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There is a good thread somewhere on here about putting your car on ramps to assist on bleeding the air out of the coolant.
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Old 08-03-2016, 04:53 PM   #13
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Cracks in the oil filler tube are quite common. It has a joint about where it would leak as shown in your picture, and one of the two pieces is a pretty lame "blow molded" part, meaning it has a seam which can fail. If it's cracked it will be leaking every time you pour oil into the car.
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Old 08-03-2016, 08:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmodz View Post
There is a good thread somewhere on here about putting your car on ramps to assist on bleeding the air out of the coolant.
If need be I have professional tools to do such. I'm service manager at one of the largest parts distributors in the country. We have all the necessary tools to properly bleed a system like this. But I doubt I'll have any issues.

But I got my O Rings today. Hopefully this is everything. I'm starting to get antsy on having my car back. Driving the lifted Toyota around is kinda bothersome.
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Old 08-04-2016, 09:09 PM   #15
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Ok. Still going to do the oil cooler o rings. But from the current looks of things, I think it was AOS Related. Since the intake tubes were soaked, there are a couple vac lines that "might" have been disconnected that leaked the oil from the AOS to the intake manifold. I still have tons of cleaning to do. But now just gotta figure out how to remove the two intake manifolds. Clean them, plug the runners and clean the top of the engine and all the parts that were soaked in grease. Pretty much a total detail. We'll see tho, everything seems to be going fine.
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Old 08-05-2016, 07:47 AM   #16
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Good luck!
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Old 08-05-2016, 05:24 PM   #17
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Ok I'm lost, looks like there were a few things disconnected. Vaccum lines.

Anyone got a really good diagram? I got a 3.2. Things came apart too easy and some stuff trying to put it together where I believe it goes, is not working. There is a hard plastic hose under the driver manifold. Actually two, once IDK Where it goes. The other one went to a Y which one hard plastic line went to the pass side of motor, that got pulled and I cannot find where it goes. I believe the other end of that goes to the resonance tube. Then off of the charcoal canister is another Y.... One connects to the charcoal canister and the other goes under to the lil sensor next to it, then that gets routed up to the next thing, However the Y going into the charcoal canister when re attatched doesn't reach the hose clamp with the vac line and "filter?" or whatever that thing is..... There is a line coming off of the top of the power steering pump that just points down at the top of the block. IDK where that goes.

I hate life right about now. This stuff is killing me on finishing my job on it. I want my car back :'(
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Old 08-05-2016, 06:05 PM   #18
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Ok I think I got it figured out...

I'm guessing this goes to the coupler and then to the Y that goes to the canister?


This I guess goes to the butterfly valve in the resonance tube?


What about this?


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Old 08-05-2016, 06:18 PM   #19
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The last pic is of the power steering pump reservoir overfill drain. Yeah drains on top of the motor.....Brilliant right? While you're there find some longer tubing and run that down below the motor.

Oh yeah almost forgot. I believe it's flammable, so keep away from the headers.

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Old 08-06-2016, 08:20 PM   #20
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Ok cool I got it all now. I think they were disconneted. At least a few of them. I think the main oil leak was from those, due to the AOS.... The intake was soaked.

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