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Old 07-31-2016, 11:41 AM   #1
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Inner CV joint stuck on axle, can't remove

Hi guys. The rear axle inner CV joint boots my 2001 Boxster S Manual split open, and I've decided to replace the inner CV joints and boots. I was able to remove the axles from the car without any problems. I removed the circlip snap ring that holds the CV joint on the axle. However, I'm having a really hard time removing the inner CV joint from the axle itself. I've tried hammering on it with a thick piece of metal and a sledge hammer, but it simply refuses to even budge. I've tried searching this forum and googling my problem, but the only results I can find involve the axle being stuck on the transmission mount, which is not my problem. Do you guys have any tips for removing a stubborn inner CV joint from the axle?

Thanks!

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Old 07-31-2016, 12:06 PM   #2
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Porsche Boxster CV Joints and Boot / Axle Replacement - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article
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Old 07-31-2016, 12:18 PM   #3
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I've read that article and all ~100 comments. They all imply that the CV joint should easily slide off of the axle shaft after you remove the circlip, which is not what I'm experiencing.
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Old 08-01-2016, 01:48 AM   #4
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Hi,

i think there is something wrong with your axle. If you remove the circlip the axle should be easily slide out the cv joint without any brutal force. And please don't use a sledge hammer.

You can try to put some heat on the cv joint so it expands a bit, but be careful and carefully use a normal hammer to tack on it. Afterwards you have to remove all grease and clean everything up, because the grease isn't able to stand heat more than approx. 150 degree celsius.

Maybe it's better to replace it with a used axle, because it seems the teeth of the axle are worn.

Regards, Markus
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Old 08-01-2016, 05:40 AM   #5
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That grease is a mess, but once you get it apart I have heard that soaking it in a bucket of kerosene will dissolve the old grease and let you put in new fresh grease. If you think you might ever do a track day you may want to consider a higher temp grease like Redline CV-2. With the axle off, you can also change the outer boot too by sliding it down the shaft and off the same end as the inner boot. As much of a hassle as it is to get the axles in and out you don't want to have to go back in anytime soon.

I though Meir had a thread about axles and CV Joints but I can't seem to find it to share - hopefully he will chime in on this thread.

Good luck!

Steve
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:01 AM   #6
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i had issues removing the shaft itself from the car, and the CV from the shaft.
ended up pounding it using a chisel and a heavy hammer.
just hit the CV joint on the inner race.
Rear axels rebuild - Pelican Parts Technical BBS
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:39 AM   #7
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Wanted to give everyone an update: I was able to remove the CV joint outer race, thus leaving only the inner race attached to the axle. This gave me a lot more room and I was able to tap the inner race off of the axle shaft by directly hitting it with a small hammer.

Both of my axles were this way. Also reinstalling new CV joints again required hammering. I suspect that there is simply variation in the axle shaft diameter such that for some people, the CV joint slides off and on easily, while for others it's an extremely tight fit. I doubt both axles became equally worn out with only 40,000 miles on the odometer.

While the inner CV joint was removed, I also replaced the outer CV joint boot by sliding the replacement boot the length of the shaft starting from the inner side. Instead of dicking around with those stupid crimp clamps to secure the boots, I used regular screw-type clamps which were much easier to install and don't require a special tool.

I've now driven around 200 miles on the rebuilt axles without any problems.

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