My first REAL SCARE with the Boxster! need some advice..

[Smallblock454]

Hello CrisZenithBlue,

i think the idea is not to have a list what should be replaced. The idea is more what should be checked and replaced if it's out of specs.

That is why i said you can only do an estimate if the engine is disassembled and everything is measured and given an opinion of.

Has to be checked:
- hydraulic lifters
- all plastic chain ramps (in general it makes sense to replace them all)
- all chains (length)
- IMS bearing, IMS tube and everything connected to the IMS
- Vario cam system
- valves, valve springs, valve seats, cylinder heads
- sparks (in general it makes sense to replace them all)
- spark cables
- ignition coils (in general it makes sense to replace them all)
- cylinders (roundness has to be checked also also if the coating has be harmed by metal). If they are not 100% round you have to decide what to do.
- pistons (roundness, marks)
- piston rings
- rod bearings
- crankshaft bearings
- if oil is in the cooling system, the complete system has to be cleaned and it is better to replace radiators, hoses and the air / oil cooler, because oil eats rubber
- all engine parts have to be washed, cleaned and checked
- all connectors and hoses
- AOS; makes sense to replace
- all filters, oils and coolants
- sealings must all be replaced, and a lot of rods and screws must also be replaced
- clutch and dual mass flywheel has to be checked
- also it is useful to check oil pump, water pump, generator, climate compressor, starter…
…

The list is even longer and i'm shure i forgot something. Before you have a complete diagnosis you can't say what to do.

In general: everything that has caused the problem must be replaced. Everything that is worn out of specs should be replaced.

I you are looking for a replacement engine, what makes shure that this engine hadn't major problems before?

Not an easy decision. Hope that helps.

Regards, Markus

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by CrisZenithBlue

regardless of what it was that caused it.. i am getting a bit concerned about a rebuild not lasting.

could i get some input on what is a MUST to replace while rebuilding?

also, would you say it's better to drop a used engine because of the difficulty of cleaning the broken one? is it really that difficult to clean the metal shavings?

i'm about to pull the trigger and having some second thoughts about the rebuild hearing some of the concerns.

A proper clean out is essential, preferably using and ultra sonic system. I would pull your current engine and look it over before making any decision. And who you select to do your engine is critical, a lot of shops claim they can, but that is not always the case.

[CrisZenithBlue]

Originally Posted by Smallblock454

Hello CrisZenithBlue,

i think the idea is not to have a list what should be replaced the idea is waht sould be checked and replaced it it's out of specs.

That is why i said you can only do an estimate if the engine is dissassembled and everything is measured and given an opinion of.

Has to be checked:
- hydraulic lifters
- all plastic chain ramps (in general it makes sense to replace them all)
- all chains (length)
- IMS bearing, IMS tube and everything conected to the IMS
- Vario cam system
- valves, valve springs, valve seats, cylinder heads
- sparks (in general it makes sense to replace them all)
- spark cables
- ignition coils (in general it makes sense to replace them all)
- cylinders (roundness has to be checked also also if the coating has be harmed by metal). If they are not 100% round you have to decide what to do.
- pistons (roundness, marks)
- piston rings
- rod bearings
- crankshaft bearings
- if oil is in the cooling system, the complete system has to be cleaned and it is better to replace radiators, hoses and the air / oil cooler, because oil eats rubber
- all engine parts have to be washed, cleaned and checked
- all connectors and hoses
- AOS; makes sense to replace
- all filters, oils and coolants
- sealings must all be replaced, and a lot of rods and screws must also be replaced
- clutch and dual mass flywheel has to be checked
- also it is useful to check oil pump, water pump, generator, climate compressor, starter…
…

The list is even longer and i'm shure i forgot something. Before you have a complete diagnosis you can't say what to do.

In general: everything that has caused the problem must be replaced. Everything that is worn out of specs should be replaced.

I you are looking for a replacement engine, what makes shure that this problems had any major problems before?

Not an easy decision. Hope that helps.

Regards, Markus

not an easy decision for sure Markus. i really appreciate you taking the time to write this up!
i didnt have any oil in the coolant, level was exactly the same so i might save myself some headaches there.

i'm still a bit on the fence about a rebuild, sounds like a lot of things that could be overlooked and end up causing problems down the road. i guess it comes down to the mechanic doing a thorough job and me agreeing to replace whatever is needed.

used engine is a gamble but so could a rebuild.

[CrisZenithBlue]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

A proper clean out is essential, preferably using and ultra sonic system. I would pull your current engine and look it over before making any decision.

good point! one way or the other it needs to come out and for some extra labor the mechanic could look it over and make a decision from there.

[78F350]

Good 2.7L here in the classifieds. Cellkid22 sounds like he is willing to accept any reasonable offer and ship. Probably better than a rebuild from what I have read of your situation.
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-parts-sale-wanted/61971-2001-2-7-engine-21k-ready-drop.html#post500357

[CrisZenithBlue]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Good 2.7L here in the classifieds. Cellkid22 sounds like he is willing to accept any reasonable offer and ship. Probably better than a rebuild from what I have read of your situation.
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-parts-sale-wanted/61971-2001-2-7-engine-21k-ready-drop.html#post500357

yeah i've been having my eyes on that. i'm about to take that off his hands i think it's my best bet at this point.

will update soon.

[Jamesp]

Here's a thought. If no magnetic particles are found in the oil filter, save a bundle and simply replace the variocams (used, they are wicked expensive new) cam to cam chains, ramps and tensioners if your feeling spendy. Drop the pan and use a wet vac to suction out the bottom of the block where the oil drains out of the heads, trash collects there. Then button it up and drive it. You have an oil filter. It always works unless the oil is thick enough in winter to push through the bypass. You live in a warmer clime and it is summer. The absolute worst thing that can happen is your engine could fail, and you are assuming that it has failed already. Your engine does not appear to be toast and you don't need to drop a bundle unless you want to. If you do want to drop a bundle, go with a newer engine, upsize dramatically, you won't regret it. As a bonus all the snooty S owners will covet your car if you drop in a 3.4 liter.

[Steve Tinker]

James - he has metallic particles in his oil filter housing. They may not be magnetic, but metal all the same which will be the deciding factor....

[78F350]

Originally Posted by Steve Tinker

James - he has metallic particles in his oil filter housing. They may not be magnetic, but metal all the same which will be the deciding factor....

All that ground up aluminum just keeps a good polish on the iron and steel parts. Not to worry.

Jamesp, you should bump and update us on your rebuild and IMS fix. Great info for people with engine failures who might DIY. The threads have drifted to obscurity.

Engine Removal, Rebuild, and Re-installaion

[CrisZenithBlue]

some of the particles were metallic some looked like copper.

i've decided to go with a used 2.7l so i bought a 21k miles engine from Cellkid and it's gonna be on its way soon.

need some more advice while that is being shipped. this is a great time to do some upgrades and preventive maintenance on it so here's what i'm thinking:
- buy a new S model oil cooler (wont touch a used one that might come from a blown engine)
- new WP that i already have (stocking up on parts) and regular thermostat (that i already have)
- will grab the AOS from my engine, it had 15k miles on it so i dont feel i need to replace it now
- Vertex IMS bearing (they are close to me and i can get a good price on one)
- i have TopSpeed cat delete pipes and Fister exhaust. why not add some aftermarket headers while at it and make a bit more power. can anyone recommend a cheap-ish set that will also delete the primary cats but wont leave a CEL on? not fabspeed though.. i know those are way too expensive. i'm in FL so no emissions test woohoo!
- i just put a new MAF on my old engine so will pull that from it
- new stock air filter
- new plugs and tubes (engine is old in years so plastic is probably brittle)
- should i also get new coil pack? maybe at 21k miles they wont be bad but still.. plastic and age
- was thinking of getting a lighter flywheel and make it a bit more revvy.. what do you guys think? what's a good brand/clutch set?


what else should i keep in mind? i dont want to go to crazy and murder the piggy bank but it's a good time to make small improvements.

thanks in advance,

Cristian

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by CrisZenithBlue

i have TopSpeed cat delete pipes

While they are not yet installed it would be a good time to wrap them or use something like Heatshield armor to keep the extra heat from the mid pipes away from your inner CV Boots. If not, especially on a track day, you will put a lot of heat into the inner boots which may overheat the grease and cause it to sling out and also cause premature failure of the boot. The stock secondary cats have shielding which is lost when you take the cat out. I had some grease coming out of my driver side axle vent hole, pulled the axles and added some more grease, added some shielding, and the problem resolved, no more slinging grease.

At first I tried to install header wrap with the pipes installed on the car, and it was terrible. So I gave up on that, and used heatshield armor (I actually have enough left over to do 3-4 more cars). That was pretty easy to do in place. You can see it in this picture when I had the wheel off:





If you decide to wrap, while the pipes are off the car is the time to do it... I saw some videos where they soaked the wrap in warm water before starting which seemed to make it look like it would be easier...

[CrisZenithBlue]

great tip Steve! thanks a lot i will definitely do that.

i will be reaching out to you regarding the suspension later, i plan on putting the new engine in and testing it for a while before i throw more money at it so i will just fix my busted shock with some a used front pair from Woody and run it like that until i feel comfortable with the replacement engine.

[jdraupp]

Why would you go through all the trouble of rebuilding the engine just to put a vertex bearing in? I'd seriously consider going with something proven like the ln bearing or the ims solution.

[CrisZenithBlue]

Originally Posted by jdraupp

Why would you go through all the trouble of rebuilding the engine just to put a vertex bearing in? I'd seriously consider going with something proven like the ln bearing or the ims solution.

vertex no good?
i thought it was proven.

[Smallblock454]

Hello CrisZenithBlue,

i'm not that IMSB discussion, because i have made my own opinion.

Before you write a big list of what you might need as big fun updates i would recommend to get the old engine and transmission out of the car and inspect the car.

There might be also worn clutch, worn DMF, old axle boots, britteling hoses, britteling harness and so on. If the engine and transmission is out of the car it's a good time to check and decide if you need to replace.

New replacement engine. The main question for me is how long did it sit unused. If it has sit unused for a longer time and wasn't prepared for sitting, than there might be some more things to do.

In general:
- Wiring harness must be checked.
- Ignition cables must be checked.
- Alternator, water pump, thermostate, AC… must be checked.
- AC has to be evacuated before you pull the engine and has to be filled after installation.
- You should check the water condensators and AC condensators – debree, dirt, leakage.
- AC dryer cartridge should be replaced.
- Would pull off valve covers and inspect the hydros.
- Would replace chain ramps of the Vario Cam system.
- Check all chain tensioners.
- Would check gaskets for leaks.
- Would replace the gaskets o-rings of the air/oil cooler.
- Sparks need to be replaced anyway.
- Coil packs should be replaced if they have visible cracks.
- Throttle body should be inspected and cleaned.
- All filters should be replaced.
- Motor oil must be replaced.
- Coolant must be replaced.
- Transmission oil can / should be replaced.
- Exhaust gaskets have to be checked.
- Manifold gaskets have to be replaced.
- Brake system and clutch has to be bleeded.
…

Regards, Markus

[Nine8Six]

Markus, you remind me of a German guy here at our club, who also has a Porsche 996. Before each and every drive-out: he MUST check tire pressure, fluid levels, and goes as far as testing his car's hazard lights. Saw him with a check list in his hand a few time also, whatever is on that list I've never had the balls to ask but can imagine lolll. Funny chap.

The only thing I don't like about him is he thinks we are all idiots and incompetents for not doing basic checks on such an important asset - as he does.

[CrisZenithBlue]

Originally Posted by Smallblock454

Hello CrisZenithBlue,

i'm not that IMSB discussion, because i have made my own opinion.

Before you write a big list of what you might need as big fun updates i would recommend to get the old engine and transmission out of the car and inspect the car.

There might be also worn clutch, worn DMF, old axle boots, britteling hoses, britteling harness and so on. If the engine and transmission is out of the car it's a good time to check and decide if you need to replace.

New replacement engine. The main question for me is how long did it sit unused. If it has sit unused for a longer time and wasn't prepared for sitting, than there might be some more things to do.

In general:
- Wiring harness must be checked.
- Ignition cables must be checked.
- Alternator, water pump, thermostate, AC… must be checked.
- AC has to be evacuated before you pull the engine and has to be filled after installation.
- You should check the water condensators and AC condensators – debree, dirt, leakage.
- AC dryer cartridge should be replaced.
- Would pull off valve covers and inspect the hydros.
- Would replace chain ramps of the Vario Cam system.
- Check all chain tensioners.
- Would check gaskets for leaks.
- Would replace the gaskets of the air/oil cooler.
- Sparks need to be replaced anyway.
- Coil packs should be replaced if they have visible cracks.
- Throttle body should be inspected and cleaned.
- All filters should be replaced.
- Motor oil must be replaced.
- Coolant must be replaced.
- Transmission oil can / should be replaced.
- Exhaust gaskets have to be checked.
- Manifold gaskets have to be replaced.
- Brake system and clutch has to be bleeded.
…

Regards, Markus

this is getting printed and put in front of the mechanic

thanks Markus!

also, i'll buy an LN bearing.

[Smallblock454]

Originally Posted by Nine8Six

Markus, you remind me of a German guy here at our club, who also has a Porsche 996. Before each and every drive-out: he MUST check tire pressure, fluid levels, and goes as far as testing his car's hazard lights. Saw him with a check list in his hand a few time also, whatever is on that list I've never had the balls to ask but can imagine lolll. Funny chap.

The only thing I don't like about him is he thinks we are all idiots and incompetents for not doing basic checks on such an important asset - as he does.

Sorry, you are all fine guys. But CrisZenithBlue asked the question and i tried to answer. If it wasn't helpful i'm sorry.

Maybe i should not write would, must or should next time.

Regards, Markus

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by CrisZenithBlue

vertex no good?
i thought it was proven.

Proven by whom? I seriously doubt they have over 20K successful installs on the road........

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by Smallblock454

Sorry, you are all fine guys. But CrisZenithBlue asked the question and i tried to answer. If it wasn't helpful i'm sorry.

Maybe i should not write would, must or should next time.

Regards, Markus

Carry on Markus, nothing wrong. Just reminded me of this chap who of course, like yourself gracefully help others the best he can.

All left to do now is pulling a list of small improvements for Chris to-do while the other jobs are being carried out