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Old 05-25-2016, 04:52 PM   #1
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Depends on the condition of the fluid. Auto transmissions should have partial fluid changes every 30 - 50k miles depending on service type if you are going to change at all. If the first service is done at >100k then by that time there is usually so much clutch friction material in the fluid that the trans will usually fail shortly after fluid change. Of course after 100k the friction material in the fluid will start to plug the filter and trans will likely start having issues anyway.

Last edited by 911monty; 05-25-2016 at 05:13 PM. Reason: further thought
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Old 05-25-2016, 06:34 PM   #2
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The original Porsche maintenance schedule said the fluid was "lifetime", but the transmission manufacturer has said it's best to change it every 50k miles or so.

I did mine at the beginning of 2015 (my Boxster S had 73K miles on it)

First, you need this:

http://www.amazon.com/Pentosin-1058206-ATF-1-Synthetic-AutomotiveTransmission/dp/B00JMAQ0LW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Pretty sure that was the best price I could find when I did it, but look around. I would refrain from using any other fluid even if they say that it's compatible. You can get single quart (liter) bottles from O'Reilly auto parts. Probably other places too, but getting that big bottle from Amazon worked out cheapest for me.

That should be more than enough to do a fluid change (without flushing the converter). The fill process can be messy (you pump fluid in until it comes raining down out of the fill port). If you want to also flush the converter, there was a thread on the forums that discussed flushing the converter using successive fill and drains. I think 3 or 4 times would give you a pretty thorough flush. I just did a drain and fill with a new filter and planned to do it again in 15K-20K miles.

You'll also need the filter and gasket set. Got mine from Pelican.

You'll need a pump to pump in the new fluid. I bought mine at Northern Tool and Equipment (under $10). Performance Tool "Quart and Gallon Fluid Pump" #W1139.

Plus sockets to get the drain plug and fill plug out as well as the bolts holding the oil pan on. The fill plug is a big one (17mm hex) and I believe the drain plug is a standard size too (by standard I mean the same across all the Tips), but the bolts holding the oil pan on can be one of 3 different sizes (all the same). The bolts holding my oil pan on were a different size than those listed in the 101 projects book and different than what some others on the forums said that theirs used. Best to get under there and check before you start the job. I believe you have to pull that big aluminum plate off to see them though. My rear main seal had been leaking and many of the forward pan bolts were packed solid with dirt. I used a dental pick to clear them out.

Be sure you loosen that big fill plug at the beginning. You need to be able to fill the transmission and the time to find out that the plug won't come loose is not when you are getting ready to fill it.

You'll have to have the car level, and up in the air when you do the fill. I used 4 jack stands, one under each jack point, and an extra one and my big jack under the engine just to play it safe.

Lastly, you'll need a way to measure the transmission temperature. You have to do the final fill with the tranny between 90 and 100 F. I picked up an infrared laser thermometer at Harbor Freight for $15 and that worked great.

I plan to do another fluid and filter change this fall. At that point I'll only have 15K-20K miles on it since the first change, but I already have all the tools and it's under $100 to do the whole job. I like to be proactive.

Sorry for the long post - hope this helps!

P.S. you can see the whole procedure in an episode of Wheeler Dealers that's available to view on YouTube. They change the fluid and filter on a 2000 Boxster S.
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Last edited by BirdDog; 05-25-2016 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 05-26-2016, 11:15 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdDog View Post
The original Porsche maintenance schedule said the fluid was "lifetime", but the transmission manufacturer has said it's best to change it every 50k miles or so.

I did mine at the beginning of 2015 (my Boxster S had 73K miles on it)

First, you need this:

http://www.amazon.com/Pentosin-1058206-ATF-1-Synthetic-AutomotiveTransmission/dp/B00JMAQ0LW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Pretty sure that was the best price I could find when I did it, but look around. I would refrain from using any other fluid even if they say that it's compatible. You can get single quart (liter) bottles from O'Reilly auto parts. Probably other places too, but getting that big bottle from Amazon worked out cheapest for me.

That should be more than enough to do a fluid change (without flushing the converter). The fill process can be messy (you pump fluid in until it comes raining down out of the fill port). If you want to also flush the converter, there was a thread on the forums that discussed flushing the converter using successive fill and drains. I think 3 or 4 times would give you a pretty thorough flush. I just did a drain and fill with a new filter and planned to do it again in 15K-20K miles.

You'll also need the filter and gasket set. Got mine from Pelican.

You'll need a pump to pump in the new fluid. I bought mine at Northern Tool and Equipment (under $10). Performance Tool "Quart and Gallon Fluid Pump" #W1139.

Plus sockets to get the drain plug and fill plug out as well as the bolts holding the oil pan on. The fill plug is a big one (17mm hex) and I believe the drain plug is a standard size too (by standard I mean the same across all the Tips), but the bolts holding the oil pan on can be one of 3 different sizes (all the same). The bolts holding my oil pan on were a different size than those listed in the 101 projects book and different than what some others on the forums said that theirs used. Best to get under there and check before you start the job. I believe you have to pull that big aluminum plate off to see them though. My rear main seal had been leaking and many of the forward pan bolts were packed solid with dirt. I used a dental pick to clear them out.

Be sure you loosen that big fill plug at the beginning. You need to be able to fill the transmission and the time to find out that the plug won't come loose is not when you are getting ready to fill it.

You'll have to have the car level, and up in the air when you do the fill. I used 4 jack stands, one under each jack point, and an extra one and my big jack under the engine just to play it safe.

Lastly, you'll need a way to measure the transmission temperature. You have to do the final fill with the tranny between 90 and 100 F. I picked up an infrared laser thermometer at Harbor Freight for $15 and that worked great.

I plan to do another fluid and filter change this fall. At that point I'll only have 15K-20K miles on it since the first change, but I already have all the tools and it's under $100 to do the whole job. I like to be proactive.

Sorry for the long post - hope this helps!

P.S. you can see the whole procedure in an episode of Wheeler Dealers that's available to view on YouTube. They change the fluid and filter on a 2000 Boxster S.
Hi birdDog
I have seen the wheeler dealers episode and all looks good.
Does the Pentosin AF1 mix with the OE fluid OK. Over here in the UK porsche will only sell their At fluid in 20 litre cans and it's bloody expensive.
Thanks
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:22 PM   #4
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I would leave the tranny alone. If it aint broke don't fix it. You will likely run into problems if you mess with it.
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:54 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by texomawaves View Post
I would leave the tranny alone. If it aint broke don't fix it. You will likely run into problems if you mess with it.
You are more likely to run into problems if you don't service it, and once it is "broke", you are in for some major expenses and headaches.
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Old 05-26-2016, 09:12 PM   #6
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Walshie - the Pentosin ATF-1 that I posted a link for -IS- the OEM fluid. It's what came in your transmission originally.

There are one or two compatible fluids (with numeric designations that I can't remember - one is listed in the 101 projects book) but I would only use the original stuff in mine.

Be careful. I think there is another Pentosin fluid that looks similar (same color bottle) with a similar name, but it's the wrong stuff.

The back of the correct bottle will have a Porsche part number listed (999.917.547.00) in the Meets and Exceeds section. The bottle also says it's good for 120,000km. Don't believe it!

I'm not telling you to change your fluid. Just offering advice based on my experience if you should decide to do it. Factor that in with what you are hearing from others on the forum before making a decision.
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Old 05-28-2016, 10:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdDog View Post
Walshie - the Pentosin ATF-1 that I posted a link for -IS- the OEM fluid. It's what came in your transmission originally.

There are one or two compatible fluids (with numeric designations that I can't remember - one is listed in the 101 projects book) but I would only use the original stuff in mine.

Be careful. I think there is another Pentosin fluid that looks similar (same color bottle) with a similar name, but it's the wrong stuff.

The back of the correct bottle will have a Porsche part number listed (999.917.547.00) in the Meets and Exceeds section. The bottle also says it's good for 120,000km. Don't believe it!

I'm not telling you to change your fluid. Just offering advice based on my experience if you should decide to do it. Factor that in with what you are hearing from others on the forum before making a decision.
Thanks for all the info. I have managed to get a great deal from a local porsche indi. They are going to do the whole thing for me for £86 + 20% vat (tax) so I have booked it in for that and a minor service at the same time, at that price I would be a fool to do it myself.
Thanks again for all your help and advice
Walshie
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Old 11-14-2018, 03:23 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Walshie View Post
Thanks for all the info. I have managed to get a great deal from a local porsche indi. They are going to do the whole thing for me for £86 + 20% vat (tax) so I have booked it in for that and a minor service at the same time, at that price I would be a fool to do it myself.
Thanks again for all your help and advice
Walshie
Just wondering if everything is still okay after the fluid change. what type of fluid did the porsche indi use?
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Old 11-16-2018, 02:53 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Pigsypo View Post
Just wondering if everything is still okay after the fluid change. what type of fluid did the porsche indi use?
Everything was fine after the change. I will check paperwork tonight to see what gluid they used.
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Old 11-16-2018, 04:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walshie View Post
Thanks for all the info. I have managed to get a great deal from a local porsche indi. They are going to do the whole thing for me for £86 + 20% vat (tax) so I have booked it in for that and a minor service at the same time, at that price I would be a fool to do it myself.
Thanks again for all your help and advice
Walshie
fair enough, but having just completed this last week. 2 hours under the car and 4 litres of ATF. it was fun, but you need a couple of things, including the filter, gasket of sump pan and a HUGE hex head socket for the drain plug...and you really need a parts washer to wash road grit and stuff before reassembly. I suggest replacing the pan screws, there are 21 of them and the heads get messed up from backing them out and reseating them. buy a set for the shop to replace before they do the service, it'll make it easier for them and you'll have peace of mind.
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Old 11-16-2018, 04:50 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by tonythetiger View Post
fair enough, but having just completed this last week. 2 hours under the car and 4 litres of ATF. it was fun, but you need a couple of things, including the filter, gasket of sump pan and a HUGE hex head socket for the drain plug...and you really need a parts washer to wash road grit and stuff before reassembly. I suggest replacing the pan screws, there are 21 of them and the heads get messed up from backing them out and reseating them. buy a set for the shop to replace before they do the service, it'll make it easier for them and you'll have peace of mind.
Thanks for the tips. is your boxster manual or tiptronic? what's the mileage on the car? what tool did you use to measure the temperature of the transmission?
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Old 11-18-2018, 09:15 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by tonythetiger View Post
fair enough, but having just completed this last week. 2 hours under the car and 4 litres of ATF. it was fun, but you need a couple of things, including the filter, gasket of sump pan and a HUGE hex head socket for the drain plug...and you really need a parts washer to wash road grit and stuff before reassembly. I suggest replacing the pan screws, there are 21 of them and the heads get messed up from backing them out and reseating them. buy a set for the shop to replace before they do the service, it'll make it easier for them and you'll have peace of mind.
Great advice. My car is up on the stands... and the ATF is on the menu.

What size are those 21 bolts, and from where did YOU purchase them?

Thank you.
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