Use gt3 water pump with metal impeller?

[Myoung73]

Okay indie says they typically replace Boxster water pumps with the metal impeller ones found on the gt3. I've seen some threads indicating that might not be advised due to possible block milling if the impeller gets a little loose. Thoughts?

[particlewave]

My opinion is that you need a new mechanic. You should never put a metal impeller water pump on the M96.

[Timco]

Originally Posted by particlewave

My opinion is that you need a new mechanic. You should never put a metal impeller water pump on the M96.

Agree. It's for a good reason.

[JayG]

NO NO NO NO NO!!!!
do not use a metal impeller. Should the bearing start to fail it will grind your engine block

Get a Pierburg water pump who makes them for Porsche
They are under $200 from warehouse 33 auto . com. (Remove spaces) If you enter RENNLIST at the checkout you get a 10% discount as well.

While you are changing the wp, replace the thermostat with a low temp one

Get a new mechanic, one that actually knows about Porsche cars

[Pdwight]

They are just buying a cheaper water pump

[rick3000]

Originally Posted by particlewave

My opinion is that you need a new mechanic. You should never put a metal impeller water pump on the M96.

I agree 100% with all of the above comments. This mechanic obviously has very little experience with the M96, because no knowledgeable Porsche mechanic would recommend a metal impeller.

As stated above Pierburg is the same as Porsche OEM. You can save a few bucks by not buying the Pierburg pump in a Porsche box, but you don't want to skimp on the water pump.

[Smallblock454]

There are a lot of after market water pumps out there that use reinforced plastic impellers. The GT3 engine block is different. Use a high quality one with a plastic impeller. Pierburg is a good choice - for example PIERBURG 7.31081.02.0. Or Laso 7520 0106. But there are also other good quality water pumps available. And do yourself a favour and don't buy the cheapest.

Regards, Markus

[Myoung73]

Very interesting. They are very respected in the area and pretty much only work on Porsches and have for over 50 years. I'm surprised he would recommend an approach that seems so obviously wrong based on the feedback from this board. Thanks for the great feedback. I'll run the concerns by him and get his thoughts. Should be interesting.

[rfuerst911sc]

Ask the shop if the metal impellar water pump they install fails and digs into the block if they will cover the damage. That should be an interesting discussion.

[Timco]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Ask the shop if the metal impellar water pump they install fails and digs into the block if they will cover the damage. That should be an interesting discussion.

I saved my old pump. It was scraping the block. You can see the marks on the impeller if they don't believe you.

[mikesz]

That is why I work on my 99 Boxster. When I pay someone to do something I expect them to know more than me and do a better job. Not usually the case.

[Gelbster]

This subject comes up often but seldom are there detailed explanations of why metal/plastic is the best choice.The threads deteriorate just like the oil chioice threads.Not helpful. I have the curse of an inquiring mind so here are a few details that others may add to/correct.
1.The aluminum blades will only score/abrade the w/p housing if you neglect a worn bearing.
2.The plastic blades will also mark the housing if a wobbly bearing is neglected. More serious - the plastic blades can disintegrate (but why-age/heat??). You will need to dismantle the entire engine to retrieve all the little pieces .Why? Because they block the coolant passages & then......Just done that job!
So pick your poison.
Best suggestion whichever you choose - is watch for coolant leaks from the w/p or noises and replace the pump immediately or 60k miles ?

[Myoung73]

Originally Posted by Gelbster

This subject comes up often but seldom are there detailed explanations of why metal/plastic is the best choice.The threads deteriorate just like the oil chioice threads.Not helpful. I have the curse of an inquiring mind so here are a few details that others may add to/correct.
1.The aluminum blades will only score/abrade the w/p housing if you neglect a worn bearing.
2.The plastic blades will also mark the housing if a wobbly bearing is neglected. More serious - the plastic blades can disintegrate (but why-age/heat??). You will need to dismantle the entire engine to retrieve all the little pieces .Why? Because they block the coolant passages & then......Just done that job!
So pick your poison.
Best suggestion whichever you choose - is watch for coolant leaks from the w/p or noises and replace the pump immediately or 60k miles ?

Great info. And the first post to suggest using the metal impeller pump might not be a horrible idea... I agree with the overall idea of keeping an eye on it and not letting it get to be an issue either way...

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Myoung73

Great info. And the first post to suggest using the metal impeller pump might not be a horrible idea... I agree with the overall idea of keeping an eye on it and not letting it get to be an issue either way...

Actually, it is a horrible idea. A metal impeller pump can do serious and permanent damage to the engine cases, filling the entire cooling system with fine metal that is difficult to remove without taking the engine apart, and even then will result in reduced cooling capabilities because the space between the pump impeller and the cases is now too large to facilitate proper coolant circulation. Bad idea all around.

[Gelbster]

I always defer to experienced advice. Plastic it is !

[rick3000]

A failing water pump will most likely make contact with the engine case, not just the WP housing. Just look at a picture of the WP, it's a giant spinning blade directly facing the engine casing.

Here are the basics of the metal vs plastic impeller argument:
-With a plastic impeller, if it fails, the plastic makes contact with the engine case and tends to break off in chucks, which normally get trapped in the radiators or oil cooler (not ideal). Since it is plastic vs metal, their is essentially no damage to the engine casing.
-With a metal impeller, you get fine metal particles that circulate through the system freely, and hole bored into the side of the engine.

[Smallblock454]

If a failing water pump with metal impeller grinds into the case house, you'll have metal in your water system - means water cooler and hoses.

Not in the engine oil system or inside any moving parts or bearings! It's just in the water channels or cooling lines or water coolers.

Same to plastic parts.

The question is: are fine metal parts better or not so fine plastic parts.

After some thinking i would prefer fine metal parts.

Regards, Markus

[78F350]

[steved0x]

I think I saw one that had a brass impellor - is brass softer than aluminum? I don't want to be the one to find out - I went with the Pierburg when I did mine.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Smallblock454

If a failing water pump with metal impeller grinds into the case house, you'll have metal in your water system - means water cooler and hoses.

Not in the engine oil system or inside any moving parts or bearings! It's just in the water channels or cooling lines or water coolers.

Same to plastic parts.

The question is: are fine metal parts better or not so fine plastic parts.

After some thinking i would prefer fine metal parts.

Regards, Markus

They both can block critical small passages, leading to hot spots. The major difference between the two is the permanent case damage metal impellers can do, which leads to cooling problems even after everything is cleaned out. Clean out the plastic, install a new pump, and it is as though nothing happened.