05-12-2006, 10:29 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 874
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In the realm of adjusting pedals for heel-toe shifting and to properly engage the technique you should understand that the brake pedal is ideally depressed to the point that it is at the same "height" as the gas pedal before blipping (as Todd states, on the brakes hard).
If you keep this in mind, you can see why EpiqTodd's technique is more effective than WildPoets' post at 17:39, and why heel-toe braking is more applicable to the track than the street, unless you're in the habit of carrying alot of speed into your street turns.
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05-12-2006, 10:47 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD987
In the realm of adjusting pedals for heel-toe shifting and to properly engage the technique you should understand that the brake pedal is ideally depressed to the point that it is at the same "height" as the gas pedal before blipping (as Todd states, on the brakes hard).
If you keep this in mind, you can see why EpiqTodd's technique is more effective than WildPoets' post at 17:39, and why heel-toe braking is more applicable to the track than the street, unless you're in the habit of carrying alot of speed into your street turns.
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SD987 - on the track, you don't think at all about equidistant ratios between the pedal surface areas in order to optimize heel-toe technique. You think about stopping your car!! Then you think about blipping the throttle before you shift or you lurch and possibly lose traction. Practice on the street, where the speeds are much more controlled and you aren't at the limit.
Most of yesterday, I was pretty much standing on the brake, after needing to decelerate from 115 to maybe 60 in just a short distance right before a 90 degree turn.
The blips in light turns are much easier, more like on the street, but still not quite that easy.
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Todd
2005 Boxster S - Atlas Grey/Black, PASM, Sport Chrono, Bose
2006 Infiniti M35 Sport
2007 Cadillac Escalade (tow vehicle with bling)
'00 Boxster - 2.7l w/FVD ECU tuning, Moton double adjustable suspension, custom stainless headers, lightweight flywheel, dual Magnaflow mufflers, 18" CCR wheels, 911 front brakes in front, Boxster front brakes in rear, full welded cage.
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05-12-2006, 10:49 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 259
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Here's a quick little online guide - also promoting the brake as the primary position. I'm not sure how you can do it with your heel resting by the throttle, as to stop (unless moving slowly) you need some good pressure on the brakes.
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/45792/article.html
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Todd
2005 Boxster S - Atlas Grey/Black, PASM, Sport Chrono, Bose
2006 Infiniti M35 Sport
2007 Cadillac Escalade (tow vehicle with bling)
'00 Boxster - 2.7l w/FVD ECU tuning, Moton double adjustable suspension, custom stainless headers, lightweight flywheel, dual Magnaflow mufflers, 18" CCR wheels, 911 front brakes in front, Boxster front brakes in rear, full welded cage.
http://www.epiqautosport.com/images/epiqtoddavatar2.jpg
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05-12-2006, 11:06 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 874
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Which is why I said "ideally". The original question had to do with adjusting the pedals, and follow up questions had to do with heel-toe technique. My point was that people tend to focus on the relationship between the two pedals from a nearness standpoint, but also should consider the "height" aspect to make employing that technique easier and determine whether pedals are "set up" well for heel-toe.
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06 987S- Sold
Carrara White / Black / Black/Stone Grey Two-tone
05 987 5-speed - Sold
Midnight Blue Metallic / Metropol Blue / Sand Beige
06 MB SLK350- Lease escapee
Iridium Silver Metallic / Black
We've heard that a million monkeys at a million keyboards could produce the complete works of Shakespeare; now, thanks to the Internet, we know that is not true. - Robert Wilensky
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