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Old 12-15-2015, 12:24 PM   #21
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Please be very careful when reconnecting everything on the AOS. It is easy to dislodge other things because the space is so cramped and with cold weather/gloves it is worse.
The AOS is a part I would carry with me on a longer trip because it could be an issue getting a replacement. Some special tools may also help like Mayhew pliers:
Pro Hose Clamp Pliers | Mayhew Steel Products, Inc.

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Old 12-16-2015, 04:44 AM   #22
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I got back to the car last night and spent a couple hours on it.
I got all the coilpacks and spark plugs out. Here is the plug from Cylinder #1



The cylinder also leaked a bunch of oil out of the plug hole, so it was full up higher than the plug hole by a good amount.

I turned the motor over with all the plugs out, and everything seems fine mechanically.

The AOS vent tube, the intake tubing and the two intake manifolds had an [un]healthy amount of oil in them. I have them and the TB off for cleaning before putting it all back together.

Ordering today:
AOS - 99610702304
Vent tube - 99610714506
Plugs - NGK V Power (6962)

I'm going to put a WTB in the classifieds for the airbox water drain, or a whole airbox depending on the price.

Last edited by alm001; 12-22-2015 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 12-16-2015, 07:44 AM   #23
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While you are in there....
1.Clean the coils very carefully so you can inspect for cracks. You will need perfectly clean coils to see any hairline cracks .A lens and bright light helps. If the cracks are small and water hasn't yet got in , you can seal the cracks with a smear of epoxy.
The generic coil packs are $30.Beru is double- unless you buy at Pelican.
2.Check the spark plug tubes for brittleness (& oil leakage :-)) $6 ea at Pelican
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Old 12-16-2015, 08:07 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Gelbster View Post
While you are in there....
1.Clean the coils very carefully so you can inspect for cracks. You will need perfectly clean coils to see any hairline cracks .A lens and bright light helps. If the cracks are small and water hasn't yet got in , you can seal the cracks with a smear of epoxy.
The generic coil packs are $30.Beru is double- unless you buy at Pelican.
2.Check the spark plug tubes for brittleness (& oil leakage :-)) $6 ea at Pelican
Good idea. One of the coils did look cracked. I haven't had any misfire codes in the past so i'll seal it up when its clean and worry about it later. They are much easier to get to than I imagined.
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Old 12-16-2015, 08:32 AM   #25
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It works only if the coils are not damp inside the cracks(rusty internals).
So make sure the coils are perfectly dry and very clean.Otherwise the epoxy will just trap the moisture inside !
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:21 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelbster View Post
While you are in there....
1.Clean the coils very carefully so you can inspect for cracks. You will need perfectly clean coils to see any hairline cracks .A lens and bright light helps. If the cracks are small and water hasn't yet got in , you can seal the cracks with a smear of epoxy.
The generic coil packs are $30.Beru is double- unless you buy at Pelican.
2.Check the spark plug tubes for brittleness (& oil leakage :-)) $6 ea at Pelican
I bought Beru ones from Warehouse33auto.com with the Rennlist discount they were ~$36 each including freight!
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Old 12-16-2015, 04:40 PM   #27
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A contributor on another Forum says he uses an upgraded seal from BMW -but gives no specifics.
I just need a failed AOS to do some trial surgery on.[/QUOTE]


Gelbster if you can remind me after New Years I have 1 or 2 AOS I can send you.
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Old 12-16-2015, 04:47 PM   #28
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[QUOTE=alm001;476782]I got back to the car last night and spent a couple hours on it.
I got all the coilpacks and spark plugs out. Here is the plug from Cylinder #1



The cylinder also leaked a bunch of oil out of the plug hole, so it was full up higher than the plug hole by a good amount.

I turned the motor over with all the plugs out, and everything seems fine mechanically.

The AOS vent tube, the intake tubing and the two intake manifolds had an [un]healthy amount of oil in them. I have them and the TB off for cleaning before putting it all back together.

You will have a lot of oil in the intake manifold too.

Hydrolocking the engine can bend connecting rods. I would spin the engine over with the starter alot to dislodge as much oil as possible. Turn engine over by hand to see if you can measure TDC height is same for all cylinders. Never tried this myself but if any of your rods are bent it will eventually break!
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Old 12-21-2015, 04:30 AM   #29
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Car is fully reassembled and has stopped smoking.
In total, I probably put about 10hrs into it, but I did a lot of cleaning of all the piping, throttle, coilpacks and random things.
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Old 12-21-2015, 04:47 AM   #30
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The Porsche parts desk said I needed the updated connection hose: 99610714506, but I could not see anywhere for it to go.
It looks like it would go from the AOS to the oil fill tube at the block, but my oil fill tube had a hard tee there, not a connection. I guess I'll be returning it to get my $40 back.
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Old 12-22-2015, 11:53 AM   #31
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More pictures, I think I fixed my posting problem.





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Old 01-18-2016, 06:52 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Gelbster View Post
I just need a failed AOS to do some trial surgery on.
PM sent. I can send it out this week.

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