Torque wrench

[Pdwight]

Wait until you try to use one on the engine mount....some are easy....some I have no idea how.....I had to just get them "familiar" tight

[BoomerRoadie]

So, I'd like to resurrect this conversation and get some thoughts.

I need a torque wrench. That's one tool I have never really needed in the wood shop.....

I'd like it for basic Boxster work like oil changes, brake work and putting the tires back on and torquing them correctly....

I think I want a 1/2" drive and I'd say a range from 10-150 ft/lbs is appropriate for those needs.

Amazon has the TEKTON 1/2-Inch Drive for a great price, but many people say it is not accurate in lower settings (clearly where it would be needed for oil changes).

Amazon also has the Gorilla Automotive TW605 for about twice the cost, but seems better reviewed, yet still not stellar in the lower torque range.

Can anyone point me to one that would suit these needs for say under $75.00? If you really feel passionate about one that costs more, tell me about it and why I should follow in your foot steps.

My concern with the cheaper ones is not so much limited life of the tool. My concern is more with inadvertent over/under torquing.

Thoughts?


EDIT: another thought was to blow off the tire torquing and go with a 3/8" drive. The thought here is the 3/8" size will be more appropriate for the torque ranges I will typically need for basic Boxster stuff and along with that is the assumption that the accuracy would be somewhat more reliable in this range (0 - 80 ft/lbs)....

[78F350]

For the wheel lugs, I use a 1/2" Drive, Beam Torque Wrench (0-150 ft/lbs). Cheap and effective (Like Rotella T6). Get yourself a nice 3/8 drive for the smaller more sensitive stuff, and then get a cheap HF 1/4" drive for the small stuff. Seriously, get 3 with the best one in the mid-range.

[JFP in PA]

This is a thin ice subject, the moment it cracks you find yourself in deep water. To get good quality, you need to spend good money. To get optimum accuracy, you need multiple wrenches.

Realistically, a basic tool set for a home shop would have three torque wrenches minimum: 1/2 drive for up to 150 ft. lbs., 3/8 drive for 10-75 ft. lbs., and a 3/8 drive inch pound wrench for the myriad of low torque fasteners found on these cars.

I buy only Snap-On for their accuracy and ability to hold accuracy, but I can justify the cost. You need to look at torque measuring tools as a long term investment; buy good ones and you will still be using them in 30 years on whatever car you own then.

[steved0x]

Yeah, don't get a 1/2 drive and then use at the lower end to small stuff, I stripped a drain plug that way. I also had a HF 1/2 drive fall apart when torquing a wheel, but it lasted about 2 years first. I now have Kobalt (from Lowe's) 1/2 and 3/8 drive, and a 3/8 drive craftsman inch/pound wrench.

[BirdDog]

I agree with everything JFP said, but I went with a 1/4" drive one for the lowest range. 1/4" sockets are generally smaller than 3/8" sockets, and will allow you to get into tighter spaces.

I own 3 TWs, a 1/2" drive for torquing lug nuts, a 3/8" drive for most other things like suspension and brakes, and a 1/4" drive inch-pound one for the gentler stuff like the water pump where you don't want to crush a gasket.

For the large one (1/2" drive) I bought a Craftsman, new on sale. I bought the other two (used Snap-on's) from tool vendors at a local flea market and had them calibrated (checked really - both were within spec) through a friend who owns a shop. You can get some good used ones at really cheap prices if you keep your eyes open (flea markets, craigslist, and ebay). I'd recommend buying a good used one that's been taken care of over buying a new cheap HF one.

My recommendations:

1. The time to be looking for a torque wrench is now, not when you need it for a repair. Keep your eyes open for a quality used one and take your time. Although you might use it only once a year, you want to buy a good quality torque wrench because the good ones will last forever. I've had my 3/8 drive one for over 30 years!

2. Store your torque wrenches dialed all the way back to zero (or as low as they go) and store them in their cases. This will help them hold calibration.

[Xpit77]

I buy Craftsman because they are well made. And if you have a warranty issue a Sears usually, isn`t too far away. Snap On is always pricey but they are Pro Grade. And you have to track down the local rep for warranty.

[BoomerRoadie]

Originally Posted by BirdDog

I agree with everything JFP said, but I went with a 1/4" drive one for the lowest range. 1/4" sockets are generally smaller than 3/8" sockets, and will allow you to get into tighter spaces.

I own 3 TWs, a 1/2" drive for torquing lug nuts, a 3/8" drive for most other things like suspension and brakes, and a 1/4" drive inch-pound one for the gentler stuff like the water pump where you don't want to crush a gasket.

For the large one (1/2" drive) I bought a Craftsman, new on sale. I bought the other two (used Snap-on's) from tool vendors at a local flea market and had them calibrated (checked really - both were within spec) through a friend who owns a shop. You can get some good used ones at really cheap prices if you keep your eyes open (flea markets, craigslist, and ebay). I'd recommend buying a good used one that's been taken care of over buying a new cheap HF one.

My recommendations:

1. The time to be looking for a torque wrench is now, not when you need it for a repair. Keep your eyes open for a quality used one and take your time. Although you might use it only once a year, you want to buy a good quality torque wrench because the good ones will last forever. I've had my 3/8 drive one for over 30 years!

2. Store your torque wrenches dialed all the way back to zero (or as low as they go) and store them in their cases. This will help them hold calibration.

This entire post, along with other just stated completely sums up my prospective.


Right now I think I want the AC Delco ARM601-4 1/2" Digital Torque Wrench (4-99 ft-lbs)

According to the reviews its very accurate and repeatable within what I believe to be its sweet spot range (from about 10-80). To me this is effectively a 3/8" TW in a 1/2" body. I would not use it for lug nuts being that require about 96ft/lbs which would be the upper range where I would avoid using it.

Again I agree that having multiples TW's is the best way to go. In my case, I'd probably pick up a relatively inexpensive 1/2" TW for the lug nuts and either a 1/4" or a 3/8" in for the lower range where the primary AC Delco would not fit (physically that is).

Is this sound judgment and strategy? Again I need this for oil changes, brakes and who knows what else is in store, but those are the big two.

[78F350]

Originally Posted by BoomerRoadie

...
Again I agree that having multiples TW's is the best way to go. In my case, I'd probably pick up a relatively inexpensive 1/2" TW for the lug nuts and either a 1/4" or a 3/8" in for the lower range where the primary AC Delco would not fit (physically that is). ...

That sounds like a good plan except lose the "probably". Especially when it comes to wheel lugs. Even though I can't afford new shoes, I found a way to get a 1/2" 0-150 lb torque wrench.

[thstone]

I agree, one size does not fit all!

I have a couple HF 1/2" that I use for lug nuts. They're cheap and if I lose one at the track (which I've done several times), its not a big loss.

For the work shop, I have a 1/2" and 3/8" Craftsman that I use for working on the cars. They are well made, reasonably priced, and warranty help is just a Sears store away.

[lkchris]

Originally Posted by plus3db

Bunch of tool snobs

Indeed ... and if you want real torque wrenches, it's Stahlwille.

Available through Mercedes and VW parts systems, among other sources.

Removable ratchet heads permit box end, open end, crowfoot attachments. BMW provides a special tool for one of my motorcycles that assumes this removable head system. No calculating extension values.

Removable ratchet heads are reversible, meaning the measuring mechanism works in only one direction, meaning feel free to loosen as well as tighten. Only wrench I use changing wheels, for example.

Mechanism does not require resetting to zero when not in use.

German cars and motorcycles deserve German wrenches imho.

[san rensho]

And i dont need no stinkin torque wrench to accurately set a hub nut. The one thats like 300 ft-lbs. A tw that reads thT high is way expensive.

T=ft X lbs. Solve the equation for ft (distance) T/lbs = ft so the torque spec divided by you weight (no cheating) gives you the distance. Now get a breaker bar and measure the distance you calculated on the breaker bar. Put thebreaker bar on the nut at the 3 oclock position and stand on the breaker bar at the calculated distance.

[jakeru]

If you want the most reliable, accurate torque wrench, use a beam-style. If you want convenience (especially for out of position wrenching), get a clicker style.

On the clicker style, be sure to relax the adjustment compression spring fully after each use. I have a 3/8" craftsman clicker style that I wouldn't hesitate to use for lower values. Although IME with using the 3/8" clicker, on M6-1.0mm pitch bolts, (which seem likely what you're dealing with based on the 7 ft-lb torque requirement), especially if going into aluminum with anti-seize, be very careful not to overtorque/strip.