THe aluminum triangular cover......how....how's it come off ??

[Pdwight]

I need to get this off to get my axels pulled, I thought I had it figured out today...but no go

Thanks and I promise to always pass this help along in the future

Dwight

[woodsman]

If you're talking about the big one under the trans you just unbolt the bolts going through it.

[BYprodriver]

1st step is to get the car as level as possible. Remove the bolts. The plate braces most of the rear suspension so any shifting will make it difficult to remove. If anything shifts you will probablly need a rear alignment & it will be harder to reinstall. It also is soft & thin so don't force it off & on, if the mounting holes become out of round it won't brace as well. Better to move the suspension parts to line things up.

[Trey T]

I changed out my tranny fluid couple years ago and I took off a bunch of stuff including the big triangle piece and two long bars. It was a lot of work to get to the tranny pan.

[Meir]

removing and putting back the triangle can be a bit tricky at times.
but once you get the hang of it, it is pretty simple.
what you need to do, is take a ratchet straps, and rap it around the "whatever you call these in the picture":




from both sides of the transmission, and start tightening it.
the triangle will slide out with no effort.
same thing with putting it back in.
that is assuming that the wheels are off the car.

[Pdwight]

Thanks for all the help, I am trying to get the axles out so I can change the wheel bearings

[jsceash]

You don't need the pan off to remove the axle. Take the bolt out of the trailing arm at the control arm. Mark and remove the adjustable bolt out of the control arm. Pop the toe arm joint. Swing the strut out the axle will all but fall on the ground.

[Timco]

Originally Posted by jsceash

You don't need the pan off to remove the axle. Take the bolt out of the trailing arm at the control arm. Mark and remove the adjustable bolt out of the control arm. Pop the toe arm joint. Swing the strut out the axle will all but fall on the ground.

Bingo. Track arm? I removed the arm behind the wheel and the delete pipe. No need to drop the big triangle brace. But it is easy.

[Pdwight]

Did you need a realignment after ?

I'm so frustrated I am going to do it your way.

Once the axle is out there is nothing holding the hub in but the face that it is pressed in the bearing right ??

Also when pressing in the new bearing the orange/red side goes in side right ?

I have been looking at many pics online and I seem to see them pressed in both ways.....but Pelican says the orange plastic or brightly colored side goes inside.

[Timco]

Originally Posted by Pdwight

Did you need a realignment after ?

I'm so frustrated I am going to do it your way.

Once the axle is out there is nothing holding the hub in but the face that it is pressed in the bearing right ??

Also when pressing in the new bearing the orange/red side goes in side right ?

I have been looking at many pics online and I seem to see them pressed in both ways.....but Pelican says the orange plastic or brightly colored side goes inside.

Yes, alignment after. I went orange side inward.

Pics in an hour. Mine is torn apart so east to get pics.

[Jamesp]

Pictures would be great. I'm trying to follow this and have had my axles out more than once, and for the life of me I don't recall my car having any aluminum triangles. My aluminum triangles must be in the Bermuda triangle.

[Smallblock454]

Why are you doing it so complicated? Why can't you guys read manuals?

Just remove the rear outer sway bar connections.
Turn the sway bar down.



Remove all screws from the triangualar element and pull it out.

Take a look in the workshop manual for correct torque (Nm).

No alignment needed!

Regards from germany
Markus

[Timco]

Originally Posted by Smallblock454

Why are you doing it so complicated? Why can't you guys read manuals?

Just remove the rear outer sway bar connections.
Turn the sway bar down.



Remove all screws from the triangualar element and pull it out.

Take a look in the workshop manual for correct torque (Nm).

No alignment needed!

Regards from germany
Markus

The Germans always seem to have a better, simpler way.

Probably to make more time for beer.....

[Timco]

Originally Posted by Jamesp

Pictures would be great. I'm trying to follow this and have had my axles out more than once, and for the life of me I don't recall my car having any aluminum triangles. My aluminum triangles must be in the Bermuda triangle.

The giant flat triangle brace plate.

[Timco]

Glad I pulled all this. Because both boots had torn in the past, and the shift lever leak, it's caked under there.

Triangle?


Here is what my puller looks like. I welded the stand off to sit on two strong points of the hub. I had to add steel to it twice since I only have mild steel sitting around. It bent.



Then you use a press to get inner spindle (spline) out of the bearing. That inner race can be really tough. I've seen them heated with a map gas torch and it fell right off but I don't want that heat on my axel.

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by Timco

The giant flat triangle brace plate.

Ok thanks, got it. I guess I need to broaden my definition of "triangle".

[Pdwight]

Your picture helped me out. Funny you see videos and DUY on most everything but not on wheel bearings or that triangular plate ....I Have the 101 projects from Pelican and there is a section on wheel bearing replacement....but the pic they show already has this plate and many other things removed.