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Old 02-08-2015, 01:18 PM   #1
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Harbour Freight Breaker Bar 0 Boxster +1

Well I admit to using some cheap tools from time to time, this breaker bar has always served me well until today. I started my bearing job on the rear, the passenger side broke loose about like I expected.....I put one foot on the long breaker bar and as my full 230 pounds came into play the axle nut turned difficultly for about 1/8 turn and then it came loose enough I could take it off with my hands and the breaker bar. Not so the passenger side.. Put my foot on the breaker bar and nothing happened...took a 4 foot length of pipe and put on the bar and snap....parts in the floor as you can see. My Stepson has a large Snap On brand....Im sure I cannot break that one.

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Old 02-08-2015, 01:30 PM   #2
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I use a huge snap on. You will not break those but you can exceed the ability of 3/8.

I made a stand off and used the HF puller set to extract the bearings without having to remove the hubs from the car. Remember to freeze the new ones!

I needed a sledge hammer on the puller to get the splines apart to pull the axels.
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Old 02-08-2015, 01:40 PM   #3
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Thanks Tim

THis was a 1/2 inch breaker bar....almost 3 feet long...it had always removed the most stubborn bolts without a groan until today. I got it free years ago from Harbour Freight for buying something else....thought pretty good until now.
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Old 02-08-2015, 06:28 PM   #4
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Just a question

They are both counter clockwise to loosen.....right ?
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Old 02-08-2015, 06:41 PM   #5
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They are not reverse threaded on any other car I've worked on.
I went through the same thing with a 99 Impala last month, except I was out in the cold without my tools

After borrowing and destroying 2 breaker bars and a couple of hours of bloody knuckles, I finally got my hands on an impact wrench. Zipped off in a few seconds.
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Old 02-08-2015, 07:03 PM   #6
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My rule with HF tools is +1if possible. If a 1/2 breaker bar may be O.K. - use a 3/4"H.F.. If a regular socket may be O.K.,use an impact and often a 3/4 impact socket and extension.The HF tool is so cheap , even if you buy the bigger/better item ,it is still a bargain.
They are introducing more "Professional Grade" tools at a slight premium.These are useful because access is so tight on the P-Cars that you need under-sized tools -1/4" ,not 3/8 drive. So I just got a lot of 1/4" impact tools and use those.Their hex-drive(Allen) tools are particularly useful.
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Old 02-08-2015, 07:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pdwight View Post
They are both counter clockwise to loosen.....right ?
I am 99.9% sure that is correct, but when questioned I like to verify. You should be able to see the thread pitch.

I'll vfy this early tomorrow AM.
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Old 02-08-2015, 07:14 PM   #8
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My rule with HF tools is +1if possible. If a 1/2 breaker bar may be O.K. - use a 3/4"H.F.. If a regular socket may be O.K.,use an impact and often a 3/4 impact socket and extension.The HF tool is so cheap , even if you buy the bigger/better item ,it is still a bargain.
They are introducing more "Professional Grade" tools at a slight premium.These are useful because access is so tight on the P-Cars that you need under-sized tools -1/4" ,not 3/8 drive. So I just got a lot of 1/4" impact tools and use those.Their hex-drive(Allen) tools are particularly useful.
I just pulled the entire trans with only a 1/2" drive snap on and basic extensions and sockets. Great access compared to a ford truck. No bolts frozen in place. A pleasure to work on. I used one small wobble socket on the WP.
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Old 02-08-2015, 07:49 PM   #9
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Do not trust Harbor Freight tools for something that your personal or equipment safety relies on! Most of their tools and instruments are of questionable quality. I had several of their tools snap or just bend. At the National lab where I'm working their multimeters are strictly prohibited because their voltage and current ratings are just wrong.
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Old 02-08-2015, 07:53 PM   #10
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I've had good luck with a 3/4" HF breaker bar with pipe extension. Also using 3/4 drive socket which is not HF. BTW, 1-1/4" socket works if you don't have 32mm.
All of the axle bolts are standard direction thread. ccw loosen

Last edited by spendy; 02-08-2015 at 07:55 PM.
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:59 PM   #11
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with a four foot cheater pipe on there, you were probably exceeding 1000 lb/ft of torque. there may be a possibility of failure on a HFT breaker bar. that is why i like to depend on the ingersol rand impact, the hammering action really aids in those circumstances.
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Old 02-09-2015, 05:10 AM   #12
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I love Harbor Freight for what it is, but I wish they would sell better quality tools.
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:01 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pdwight View Post
They are both counter clockwise to loosen.....right ?
Yes, I have broken 2 Craftsman 1/2"drive extensions while torquing the rear axle nuts.
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:05 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdass623 View Post
with a four foot cheater pipe on there, you were probably exceeding 1000 lb/ft of torque. there may be a possibility of failure on a HFT breaker bar. that is why i like to depend on the ingersol rand impact, the hammering action really aids in those circumstances.
+1 its physics.
long pipe extending the handle = much greater force

Given enough force, you will break all of the breaker bars

he HF stuff is not bad, certainly not as good as Snap-on in many cases, but for the $$ and the garage mechanic / DIYer are good

A lot of tools are not as good as they used to be. Craftsman is a good example. They used to be made at Moore Drop Forge, the same factory used by Snap-on and other high end tools, and now lots of them are being made off shore
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:32 AM   #15
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"you were probably exceeding 1000 lb/ft of torque."
Way beyond the design limit of any 1/2" breaker bar.'Cheater' pipe ,there is a reason for the name.
Sometimes a few soakings with PB Blaster or heat can be useful ?
I found this on Garage Journal: "HF Breaker Bar has stood up to eight-foot cheater pipes and has done multiple Honda crank pulley bolts for me... And hasn't broken off (and their sockets have held up too!)."
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Old 02-09-2015, 03:02 PM   #16
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Well it came off today

I hit it with some PB Blaster before I left it last night...today for Hit's N Giggles I tried my craftsman cordless impact driver I use mainly for lug bolts. I put the socket on and a few seconds of "clickety clack" and I saw the slightest perceptible movement of the big socket and then it spun off. I was never that worried about getting it off so much as how I will be able to tell if I get to 340 ft lbs of torque when I put it back on.
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:43 AM   #17
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I highly suggest that you use air tool instead. I have the previous generation 1/2" earthquake impact wrench from HF with a 3HP Quincy 60gal air compressor. It just makes things easy and less daunting for any task you tackle, even a Honda crank bolt is easy to take off.

Honestly, if you enjoy maintaining your porsche, get proper tools. It saves you a lot of time and frustrations.
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:14 AM   #18
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Air tools over lithium ion power tools ???
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:26 AM   #19
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If you want to go w/ lithium-ion tool, get Milwaukee M18 1/2" Fuel ~700ft-lbs impact. CURRENTLY, Milwaukee brand is the only brand I recommend.

Lithium-ion impact doesn't replace air impact. Air impact is a lot more powerful and smaller that can be more versatile than the bulky M18 fuel 1/2" impact.
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Old 02-10-2015, 03:20 PM   #20
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I understand that the Milwaukee is a far superior tool than my Craftsman but the fact is the axle nut is off and now to proceed with the teardown and installation of new parts. I would never use a Impact tool to install the new axle nuts and they need to be torqued to 340 ft lbs and the Milwaukee would probably way over do it. I do not have a Torque wrench that goes past 250 ft lbs so I will have to rely on mathematics and my weight on a breaker bar for the estimate of the correct torque.
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