IMS bearing removal without special tool??

[PorscheFan5]

James and Meir,

I did use a small size hex like a 3mm but still could not find the hole.

On you point of pulley being slightly off...I think you meant go slightly clockwise, correct? The correct rotation of the pulley is clockwise, correct? Is it ok to rotate the pulley at this stage where I have removed the 2 tensioners and not removed the 3Rd?

Also, can I go ahead and remove the flange and replace the IMSB without removing the 3Rd tensioners?

Thanks for the picture, will check in the car with the picture tomorrow.

[Jamesp]

You might get a dental mirror and a light to inspect the boss through the hole, there may be something in the hole. Wiggling the crankshaft back and forth for alignment should not be a problem. You can get cheap dental mirrors at the local drug store.

[PorscheFan5]

James,

I will try that this weekend. Perhaps best would be to put my endoscope there and see. The endoscope has LEDs that will help see in the dark there.

Immobilizing the crank with the plate in the back on flywheel end does not secure it enough, eh?

I know I have an IMSB issue as the nut with part of the bolt has fallen off. Just waiting to see how bad it is and how I can take the bearing out...:-)

And then after that to the next problem...the loose Cam covers that the POs Porsche dealer left loose when they gave it back to him...:-) Doesn't get any better, huh?

Thanks for all your kind help in advance! Will do my part and post pictures!

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by PorscheFan5

James,

I will try that this weekend. Perhaps best would be to put my endoscope there and see. The endoscope has LEDs that will help see in the dark there.

Immobilizing the crank with the plate in the back on flywheel end does not secure it enough, eh?

I know I have an IMSB issue as the nut with part of the bolt has fallen off. Just waiting to see how bad it is and how I can take the bearing out...:-)

And then after that to the next problem...the loose Cam covers that the POs Porsche dealer left loose when they gave it back to him...:-) Doesn't get any better, huh?

Thanks for all your kind help in advance! Will do my part and post pictures!

As you are going to be removing the flywheel, securing it will not help you. You need to get that pin inserted in the crank pulley.

[PorscheFan5]

JFP,

I was talking about securing the crank with the engine case. The flywheel is already removed. This is if I am not able to get the pin in, just in case.

All,

Seperate question thinking positively ahead... Is using the Pelican single row bearing kit of $165 ok? Reviews seem to be good. Please advise.

Thanks,

Mahendra

[Meir]

Originally Posted by PorscheFan5

James and Meir,

I did use a small size hex like a 3mm but still could not find the hole.

On you point of pulley being slightly off...I think you meant go slightly clockwise, correct? The correct rotation of the pulley is clockwise, correct? Is it ok to rotate the pulley at this stage where I have removed the 2 tensioners and not removed the 3Rd?

Also, can I go ahead and remove the flange and replace the IMSB without removing the 3Rd tensioners?

Thanks for the picture, will check in the car with the picture tomorrow.

it is correct.
the correct rotation of the pulley is clockwise, but if you passed the exact TDC point you can turn it a bit back or do a full rotation again.
i will never rotate the crank with the tensioners removed.
the reason for removing the tensioners, is to relief the pressure from the shaft on the bearing side. the third tensioner is on the opposite side so it doesn't have a large affects on the shaft centering point.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Meir

"but if you passed the exact TDC point you can turn it a bit back"

Never rotate one of these engines backwards; even a small amount of rotation is a bad idea. If you miss TDC, go around again.

[PorscheFan5]

Understood: never rotate engine backwards but can go around again.

Question is can I rotate the engine clockwise now with the two tensioners removed? Any issues there?

Also no one answered the question on whether securing the crank to the engine case from the back of the engine will suffice or do I have to make sure I get the locking pin into the crank pulley/case.

And...is the Pelican bearing kit ok to use...

Thanks.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by PorscheFan5

Understood: never rotate engine backwards but can go around again.

Question is can I rotate the engine clockwise now with the two tensioners removed? Any issues there?

Also no one answered the question on whether securing the crank to the engine case from the back of the engine will suffice or do I have to make sure I get the locking pin into the crank pulley/case.

And...is the Pelican bearing kit ok to use...

Thanks.

I would not rotate the engine with the tensioners out; bad idea.

I do not like the idea of using the back flange of the crank to hold the engine as it blocks you from replacing the RMS while you have the car apart. Use the pulley.

While this may bring the powers that be down on me, the Pelican kit is one of the last on earth I would use. Go with an LN ceramic update if it is a dual row, the IMS Solution if it is a single row engine and you can afford it, otherwise consider either the LN single row or Pro update.

[PorscheFan5]

Sorry for taking time to provide an update. The family and work does not leave much time to work on my Boxster...

I do have an update but it is not good...:-(

1. The hole in the case behind the crank pulley was fine. My hex key was going in about 2 inches and that is about as much it can go. I put my endoscope in there and could easily see the hole that the key was going in. So I was locked alright.

2. Now come the bad part...I was able to get the IMSB flange out with some difficulty but using 2 pry bars as recommended. When I took the flange out, it seems that the bearing fell apart right there as if it was being held by the last straw!

-- I could see all the balls right there
-- The inner race came out with the flange and the broken bolt
-- The outer race is stuck in the IMS. I cannot see the snap ring...perhaps it is the one around the flange? Or it is welded to the outer race due to the heat generated...?

The only way to take the bearing's outer race out is perhaps to weld a washer with 3/8th bolt that can then be pulled with the bearing puller. See last pic.

Here are the new set of questions:

1. Will the bearing come out with this method?
2. Do you'll think the snap ring is welded into the outer race? If so the bearing will not come out..
3. If I do get the outer race out by some miracle...is it going to be possible to replace the new bearing? Will the IMS be round?
4. Is this all worth trying? I have nothing to loose in trying. If it works, fine, or else I will continue with my original project and ditch the engine and start working on the electric conversion?
5. I will still have the resealing of the cam covers to deal (since the dealer left the cam covers loose!) with before I could have a prayer of testing the engine...

This is becoming exciting, depressing, challenging all at the same time...

Thanks for continuing to be involved.

[Reebuck1]

I think you don't need to worry about getting the bearing out now. The whole motor needs to now come apart in order to determine how much damage was done. Even if all the parts are good the case and all passages need thoroughly cleaned.