02-16-2015, 05:35 PM
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#1
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Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PorscheFan5
Thanks guys. Few more questions:
1. I finally have some time to work on the car today afternoon. I found 2 tensioners - one horizontal on drivers side to the rear of the engine jutting out (1 ring), 2nd on passenger side jutting down (2 rings) - where is the third one (3 rings)?
2. When I turn the crank and get cylinder 1 to the top and crank marks matching for TDC, the locking pin in the tear drop hole in the crank is not going in. Am I missing something? I tried all the three holes, no luck. Before you ask how I know cylinder/piston 1 is at the top; I have taken out all the spark plugs and put in an endoscope in cylinder 1 where I can see the piston coming all the way up and the TDC marks on crank matches with the mark on case. I should be at TDC, correct?
Just want to make sure before I lock the crank on the rear with a plate, lock cams and try to pull the IMS flange.
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Once at TDC, there is a counter bored boss in the block under the TDC hole in the crank pulley. Make sure the dowel your using isn't to large in diameter to fit in the counter bore. Alignment between the hole in the pulley and the counter bore in the block has to be precise.
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2003 S manual
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02-18-2015, 03:56 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: California
Posts: 246
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James,
Attached is the pic of the crank pulley at TDC. If you look at the other pic, I cant get the hex key in to lock the pulley. I even tried with a smaller size key and lightly groped around in case I was slightly to one side but with no luck. How can there be no hole at the back in case?
What am I missing? I want to make sure I go slow and steady and not make any mistakes.
Secondly, if I was to lock the crankshaft with the stock plate with the holes in the engine case on the back of the engine (flywheel side), does that not lock the crankshaft properly since it is the same solid crankshaft from front to back? I am trying to understand if locking with the plate be enough if I cannot get the locking pin in the pulley in the front for some reason...
Also does anyone have a picture of where the 3rd tensioner is located near the airconditioner? A picture would help me locate it better to remove it before I proceed any further.
Thanks!
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02-18-2015, 04:12 PM
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#3
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Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,659
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It looks like you're all over it. The small square notch on the pulley is in the right place. I'd be inclined to think there may be crud in the hole, or the key is a little bit off or too big rather than think the hole is not not there. I saw somewhere that an 8 mm drill bit fits, so if that's an 8 mm key, it may be be too big. The real key is to be at TDC to unload the camshafts, and you're there. As far as unloading the cams is concerned you don't have to be perfect, a degree or so won't make a difference. If I can find a picture of the third tensioner, I'll post it here, and yes, that's a challenge to everyone else to see who can post it first.
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2003 S manual
Last edited by Jamesp; 02-18-2015 at 06:15 PM.
Reason: typo
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02-18-2015, 04:36 PM
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#4
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Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,659
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Well, it is challenging, but here it is, under the AC compressor mount just above the center of the picture. That's why it's hard to find.
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2003 S manual
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02-18-2015, 05:44 PM
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#5
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1999 base
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 1,617
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If you are only looking to replace the IMSB, you do not have to remove the 3rd tensioner. If your plan is to replace it, then go for it.
8 mm dril bit for the pulley is the way to go. As James said, you are not far off.
In fact, on you second picture you can see the boss behind the pully.
Look like you need to turn it a notch counterclockwise.
Good luck.
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02-18-2015, 10:09 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: California
Posts: 246
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James and Meir,
I did use a small size hex like a 3mm but still could not find the hole.
On you point of pulley being slightly off...I think you meant go slightly clockwise, correct? The correct rotation of the pulley is clockwise, correct? Is it ok to rotate the pulley at this stage where I have removed the 2 tensioners and not removed the 3Rd?
Also, can I go ahead and remove the flange and replace the IMSB without removing the 3Rd tensioners?
Thanks for the picture, will check in the car with the picture tomorrow.
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02-19-2015, 03:48 AM
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#7
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Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,659
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You might get a dental mirror and a light to inspect the boss through the hole, there may be something in the hole. Wiggling the crankshaft back and forth for alignment should not be a problem. You can get cheap dental mirrors at the local drug store.
__________________
2003 S manual
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02-20-2015, 12:01 PM
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#8
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1999 base
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 1,617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PorscheFan5
James and Meir,
I did use a small size hex like a 3mm but still could not find the hole.
On you point of pulley being slightly off...I think you meant go slightly clockwise, correct? The correct rotation of the pulley is clockwise, correct? Is it ok to rotate the pulley at this stage where I have removed the 2 tensioners and not removed the 3Rd?
Also, can I go ahead and remove the flange and replace the IMSB without removing the 3Rd tensioners?
Thanks for the picture, will check in the car with the picture tomorrow.
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it is correct.
the correct rotation of the pulley is clockwise, but if you passed the exact TDC point you can turn it a bit back or do a full rotation again.
i will never rotate the crank with the tensioners removed.
the reason for removing the tensioners, is to relief the pressure from the shaft on the bearing side. the third tensioner is on the opposite side so it doesn't have a large affects on the shaft centering point.
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