Quote:
Originally Posted by itsnotanova
50-60lbs
|
That is for dang sure, the stock seats are heavy, especially if they have the full power option.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thstone
Also, its very easy to remove a seat (4 bolts) if needed - 10 mins.
|
It gets easier each time, for me the first few times were a !@#$%. What really helped me was the following two tools:
GearWrench 9221 E10 x E12 Torx Double Box Ratcheting Wrench - Box End Wrenches - Amazon.com
I love this thing! I don't use it for final tightening or for breaking the bolt loose, but once I start the bolt, then I put this bad boy on and ratchet it down. Especially for my driver seat that is floor mounted, there is a tiny amount of space back there to work. This was a lifesaver.
For final tightening (where I can't reach with a torque wrench, and also for breaking loose where I can't reach a torque wrench) is the smallest "10" wrench from this set.
7 Pc Metric Universal Combination Wrench Set
I guess I could order the exact wrench from Amazon but when I needed a wrench that day, Harbor freight was it.
When I using a torque wrench, I have the socket from this set:
17 Piece 1/4 in. & 3/8 in. Drive Star Bit Socket Set
Which also has a nice little selection of security torx bits, like for the MAF (I can't confirm this set fits the MAF since I already had a set before this that I used when I did my MAF and I am too lazy to look up the sizes)
Tip: make *dang* sure your bolts are lined up correctly before you start to tighten them down as you don't want to cross thread these. I like to start all 4 loosely, and then got back and tighten them down once I am sure all 4 are in there. There is a *tiny* amount of wiggle room and if you tighten one all the way before starting another, it might not start straight and could introduce a cross threading situation.
Steve
Threaded Mode
