front turn signal problem

[rosenfe]

03 s i replaced bulb,but still no turn signal light front ,shows on dash indicator,going very fast on non op side.whats to check next?back light works

[particlewave]

Fast blink means that the circuit is not complete...as in bulb out. If all bulbs are good, check the wires on the bottom of the headlight and the contacts inside of socket. It's quite possible that one of the wires has a break in it.

Also make sure that the headlight connector is seating well in its socket.

[sb01box]

I also had similar problem. 01 box.
it turned out to be broken "blade" in the turn signal light socket. the self-spring plate that the center button of the bulb pushes into.
my fix was to jam a thin metallic sheet to supplement the broken piece.
hope yours is not this bad. but you may want to look into the socket when you have the assembly out.

[rosenfe]

i will check socket tommorow,thanks for the input

[rosenfe]

i checked socket this evening and there was a piece of the bottom metal contact broken off,fll out when i took bulb out.im going to find out what a socket costs,maybe even a used one.i mayswitchout socket fro working side and see if it works.

[particlewave]

In case you didn't get this fixed...

Here is the thread where it was discussed.
Another user found the sockets in the link below. It looks like they should be a match, but 2 of the 4 locking tabs will have to be cut off and the new wires spliced to the old connector.

Link to the part...

[tiggerkick]

I'm having this same issue (driver side). Switched out the sockets using the one from the passenger side. Passenger side still works but driver side is still dead with swapped sockets. Switched out bulbs as well, still no luck. Tried to re-seat the headlight a couple of times to make sure it wasn't a seating issue. Emergency lights blinks all three except the busted one. What else can I check?

[particlewave]

With the bulb in, check for continuity through the circuit by using a test light or multimeter on the headlight connector pins. One of your test light or multimeter leads should be on the turn signal positive pin and the other should be on the common ground pin.
If you have a good continuity between the turn signal positive pin and the common ground pin, remove the bulb and test for continuity again. If you have continuity with the bulb out, there is a short somewhere in the circuit.

You can also check for continuity between the rear connector pin and the socket itself. These test will determine if you have a break in a wire somewhere inside the headlight OR a short-circuit caused by brittle and cracked insulation which is very common.

If the headlight checks out, report back.

[tiggerkick]

Originally Posted by particlewave

With the bulb in, check for continuity through the circuit by using a test light or multimeter on the headlight connector pins. One of your test light or multimeter leads should be on the turn signal positive pin and the other should be on the common ground pin.
If you have a good continuity between the turn signal positive pin and the common ground pin, remove the bulb and test for continuity again. If you have continuity with the bulb out, there is a short somewhere in the circuit.

You can also check for continuity between the rear connector pin and the socket itself. These test will determine if you have a break in a wire somewhere inside the headlight OR a short-circuit caused by brittle and cracked insulation which is very common.

If the headlight checks out, report back.

Thanks for the quick response. Got my hands on a multimeter and just ran the tests as directed. I was able to get continuity with the bulb in but not without the bulb. I tested the socket itself as well and same results, continuity with the bulb in but not without the bulb. So I'm guessing the headlight is not the issue?

[particlewave]

It seems that way.
My next test would be to actually apply power to the pins on the rear connector and make sure that the turn signal bulb lights up. If it does then the problem is somewhere in the car (possibly the car side of the connector).

[tiggerkick]

Originally Posted by particlewave

It seems that way.
My next test would be to actually apply power to the pins on the rear connector and make sure that the turn signal bulb lights up. If it does then the problem is somewhere in the car (possibly the car side of the connector).

Couple of days after posting this my car overheated and leaked coolant everywhere. Finally finished swapping out the waterpump, thermostat and reservoir so now back to this.

I'm not sure how to put power to the headlight or even believe I have the equipment for that. So I asked a buddy with the multimeter to help me out again and he tested the plug on the car side to see if it's getting anything with the signal turned on and it was definitely jumping with some numbers. I've also noticed tonight while driving that the headlights would flicker when going over bumps (just the headlights not interior lights or radio). Did a search and read about the ignition switch. Would the ignition switch affect the one turn signal somehow as well? I've ordered the part since it's cheap but not sure if the headlight flicker and turn signal issue is even related to that.

[particlewave]

The flicker when going over bumps leads me to believe that there is a bad connection at the connector. Are 100% sure that the headlight is fully seated and locked?

If the continuity is good through the headlight and good power on the car side, my first line of attack would be the connection.
I would replace the connector on the car side and check the pins on the headlight, but that would be a lot of work if you are not experienced at soldering since the new connector would need to be spliced in after the old is cut out.
The female sockets on the car side connector can get sprung enough that the connection is lost, but would still be readable with a multi-meter probe.
You can probably get a used connector from member itsnotanova on the classified forum. I've bought some from him before.
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-parts-sale-wanted/52469-parting-out-whole-lot-boxsters.html

You might try the ignition switch before going that route since you already ordered one, but since it's only one headlight, I really doubt that it's the problem.

[aneal000]

I don't want to point out the obvious at this point, but did you check the blinker fluid level?

[Jinx]

We had the same problem a few months back. Porsche sells the socket as part of the whole headlight assembly for $1,200.00 dollars. Particlewave solved the problem
By sending me a link to a seller on eBay. The eBay seller is integra90006hid
Socket is described as
1156 socket harness plug connectors per wired sockets 7506
The store is still selling the sockets for $ 6.85 plus shipping.
With a little help from my independent mechanic's grind stone.
He had to file off one of the tabs on the socket 2 mins time
It saved me $1,190.00 dollars. They even offer extra fast shipping.
I had mine the next day installed that afternoon. My mechanic
Did not charge me as he said it would take longer for him to write
Up the bill than it did for him to install the socket.

Good luck,

Jinx

[tiggerkick]

Originally Posted by particlewave

The flicker when going over bumps leads me to believe that there is a bad connection at the connector. Are 100% sure that the headlight is fully seated and locked?

If the continuity is good through the headlight and good power on the car side, my first line of attack would be the connection.
I would replace the connector on the car side and check the pins on the headlight, but that would be a lot of work if you are not experienced at soldering since the new connector would need to be spliced in after the old is cut out.
The female sockets on the car side connector can get sprung enough that the connection is lost, but would still be readable with a multi-meter probe.
You can probably get a used connector from member itsnotanova on the classified forum. I've bought some from him before.
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-parts-sale-wanted/52469-parting-out-whole-lot-boxsters.html

You might try the ignition switch before going that route since you already ordered one, but since it's only one headlight, I really doubt that it's the problem.

I've tried jiggling the headlights for movement but they seemed to be seated properly. I'll remove them both and reinsert them again just to be sure. While testing the turn signals I've noticed that with the left headlight not in place the right turn signal would not light up (and the back would blink fast just like the left issue I'm having) which was interesting. UPDATE: The right headlight was not seated properly. Fixed that and took it for a run over some bumpy road and the flickering lights issue is now fixed at least.

Is this the connector you're referring to?
02 Porsche 911 Boxster 986 Front Small Wiring Harness Wire Loom 10 955 | eBay
it looks to be a plug and play sort of deal doesn't it?

Originally Posted by aneal000

I don't want to point out the obvious at this point, but did you check the blinker fluid level?

Yea, that's step 1. The bulb is so full it looks empty

Originally Posted by Jinx

We had the same problem a few months back. Porsche sells the socket as part of the whole headlight assembly for $1,200.00 dollars. Particlewave solved the problem
By sending me a link to a seller on eBay. The eBay seller is integra90006hid
Socket is described as
1156 socket harness plug connectors per wired sockets 7506
The store is still selling the sockets for $ 6.85 plus shipping.
With a little help from my independent mechanic's grind stone.
He had to file off one of the tabs on the socket 2 mins time
It saved me $1,190.00 dollars. They even offer extra fast shipping.
I had mine the next day installed that afternoon. My mechanic
Did not charge me as he said it would take longer for him to write
Up the bill than it did for him to install the socket.

Good luck,

Jinx

I've checked that out by swapping the sockets from left and right headlight housings to see if that was the issue but the right blinker works with either socket no problem. I've been making 3 rights instead of a left whenever I can and driving in high traffic area is just a pain. Can't wait to resolve this. Thanks everyone

UPDATE:FIXED! Inspected left and right side wiring harness and noticed the left harness had some play in it. Removed the yellow clip and pushed the blue harness forward a little more and then locked it in place. Plugged everything back in and now all is well.

[GreenMachine]

UPDATE:FIXED! Inspected left and right side wiring harness and noticed the left harness had some play in it. Removed the yellow clip and pushed the blue harness forward a little more and then locked it in place. Plugged everything back in and now all is well.[/QUOTE]

Just for anyone visiting this page like I did many years later, it's also worth checking the electrical connections where the indicator bulb holder connects to the headlight cluster, as this can become loose and give an intermittent indicator bulb failure, and is easy to confuse with the symptoms listed above.

This is the testing procedure I followed to identify this issue in my car - posting to help others..

• Remove the offending headlamp unit and confirm the continuity of the offending blub.
• Test for current at the wing-connection to the headlight referenced in jonny3303's post above by getting a test lamp to illuminate (the indicators are the second pair of female connectors from the top on the car side).
• Remove the indicator bulb holder from its recess and the electrical plug that connects it to the headlamp (see pic).
• Bridge the two male connections on the headlamp-side of the connection and test for continuity at the poles on the indicator end (ie. testing the headlamp unit itself).
• Then test for continuity between the bulb holder and the electrical plug that connects it to the headlamp.
• Supply power direct to the male headlamp connections (crocodile clips connected via a battery) and squeeze the plastic shroud (black plastic connector) that holds the electrical plug to the underlying poles. If the bulb illuminates the shroud has become loose causing an intermittent failure.
• Remove the shroud (black plastic connector) entirely, solder new connections that provide a strong interference fit to the poles, insulate them, and reassemble everything.

[GreenMachine]

UPDATE:FIXED! Inspected left and right side wiring harness and noticed the left harness had some play in it. Removed the yellow clip and pushed the blue harness forward a little more and then locked it in place. Plugged everything back in and now all is well.[/QUOTE]

Just for anyone visiting this page like I did many years later, it's also worth checking the electrical connections where the indicator bulb holder connects to the headlight cluster, as this can become loose and give an intermittent indicator bulb failure, and is easy to confuse with the symptoms listed above.

This is the testing procedure I followed to identify this issue in my car - posting to help others..

• Remove the offending headlamp unit and confirm the continuity of the offending blub.
• Test for current at the wing-connection to the headlight by getting a test lamp to illuminate (the indicators are the second pair of female connectors from the top on the car side).
• Remove the indicator bulb holder from its recess and the electrical plug that connects it to the headlamp (see pic).
• Bridge the two male connections on the headlamp-side of the connection and test for continuity at the poles on the indicator end (ie. testing the headlamp unit itself).
• Then test for continuity between the bulb holder and the electrical plug that connects it to the headlamp.
• Supply power direct to the male headlamp connections (crocodile clips connected via a battery) and squeeze the plastic shroud (black plastic connector) that holds the electrical plug to the underlying poles. If the bulb illuminates the shroud has become loose causing an intermittent failure.
• Remove the shroud (black plastic connector) entirely, solder new connections that provide a strong interference fit to the poles, insulate them, and reassemble everything.