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Old 03-20-2013, 12:17 PM   #1
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Bleeding Brakes and changing brake fluid

So weather today in the Uk hasnt improved ..but thought must get on..
New rotors fitted and Red stuff pads to the rears, along with Goodridge lines

So armed with my new `Motive Brake Power Bleeder` recently imported..got on with the task of bleeding the brakes and doing a full brake fluid change while i was at it..

Armed with 4ltrs of Ate Blue racing fluid...complete overkill !!!! Didnt take more than 1.5 ltrs...so where i read 3-4 ltrs is complete rubbish.
Existing fluid was gold, so changing through with the blue made it easy.

The Motive Bleeder worked well...but you do have to keep pumping up the pressure

While i was there have fitted the new Cree Sidelight bulbs...wow bright white light!!

Looking forward at last to get the New Victor 19" wheels on tomorrow

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Old 03-20-2013, 12:54 PM   #2
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I'll be interested to hear how much heavier/lighter your Victor wheels are compared to stock.
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:24 PM   #3
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You're supposed to keep the pressure around 20. I'll usually bleed one wheel and then go pump it back to 20 before starting the next one.
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Old 03-20-2013, 02:28 PM   #4
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Yeah was doing one wheel at a time and keeping the pressure at 20..
2 bleed screws per caliper of course.. good tool though..and very easy to use
Just took 1 fill up of the bleeder and done it all...poored about 1 1/2 litres in and had a bit left over...so a complete fluid change was around 1.4lt at a guess..

Any UK member want to buy 2 cans of Ate Blue?? Was thinking of offering a brake fluid change service to any locals..??


re wheels;
Have read a few hundred threads on wheels etc., and i am interested why people get
obsessed with the weight....Its not a race car after all.. Chuck the passenger out or lose a few pounds and diet??
Clear all the crap out of the boot....and only ever have no more than 1/2 tank of fuel??? These all save weight dont they
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Old 03-20-2013, 07:40 PM   #5
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The weight of the wheels doesnt have to do with the overall wight of the car.
It has to do with the weight of the suspension assembly.
Less weight more stibuilety.
I'm sure someone here will be able to explain it better. (my English is not that good)
Just for an example, in Alfa Romeo cars (80's models), the whole braking system was removed from the wheel side of the half shaft, and positioned on the transmission side, just to extract wight from the suspension (Alfa sud, Alfa gtv and more).
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:18 PM   #6
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The other reason is that wheels are revolving weight, and lighter wheels will enable quicker acceleration as the rim has to be rotationally accelerated and f=ma.

But I agree that it is silly to obsess about these things on a street car. If you're shaving 1/100th's of a second on the track because you're a professional driver and your payday depends on it, that's one thing, but if it's a street car then what difference does it make, really, if the car is that slight bit quicker? I laugh at these kids that come on here saying that they need more power. Uh huh, you need more power. eh? And why is that, exactly?
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:49 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porsche Pete View Post
re wheels;
Have read a few hundred threads on wheels etc., and i am interested why people get
obsessed with the weight....Its not a race car after all.. Chuck the passenger out or lose a few pounds and diet??
Clear all the crap out of the boot....and only ever have no more than 1/2 tank of fuel??? These all save weight dont they
Its called unsprung weight....
If you reduced your wheels / brakes / tyres / lower suspension parts by (say) 20%the suspension and tyres react so much quicker and more accurately to road imperfections and change of direction. Even in a road car this is a real advantage which you can actually feel on the street.
A 5kg unsprung weight loss is roughly equal to a 25kg body weight loss, maybe even more on the track.....
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:46 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Mark_T View Post
The other reason is that wheels are revolving weight, and lighter wheels will enable quicker acceleration as the rim has to be rotationally accelerated and f=ma.

But I agree that it is silly to obsess about these things on a street car. If you're shaving 1/100th's of a second on the track because you're a professional driver and your payday depends on it, that's one thing, but if it's a street car then what difference does it make, really, if the car is that slight bit quicker? I laugh at these kids that come on here saying that they need more power. Uh huh, you need more power. eh? And why is that, exactly?
More like Torque =0.5Mxr2xalpha
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:17 AM   #9
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Hmmmmmmmmm too technical for me and not sure i am bothered.. However the 19" Victor Kanhs are light cos i have fitted them on today

Will get some pics up soon when the site has been fixed to upload pics again

Went for a short drive but the new Red Stuff rear pads are tight in the calipers, too tight me thinks, and calipers got very hot and started making horrible noises

So limped home, tail between my legs. Will have the rear wheels off again in the morning and i think i will take the dampening pads out from the back of the pads and see how that goes...will give it couple of mm clearance then...Guess i can always put back in if needed at a later date..once the pads bed in a bit..

Handbrake was also very tight...although i havent touched this at all i guess it will need slacking off a tad as have fitted new rotors.. is this best done at the wheel or from inside the cockpit??

Thanx guys and girls.. Pete
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:27 AM   #10
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Chuck the passenger out or lose a few pounds and diet??
I opted for chucking the passenger out. The other option is too hard.
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:32 PM   #11
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I`m on a diet...far too fat...worked out a can do 0-60 in under 5 secs if i weigh 2 1/2 stone........Lol Only another 13 to lose.....

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