01-20-2013, 06:23 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NY/NJ
Posts: 195
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Getting ready to do brake pads - rotor question
So I'm getting ready to put new pads in the front brakes. They are making a high pitched squeal when stopping.
The rotor looks fairly OK, but it does have a very minimal lip around the edge. Does this mean the rotor is shot? Or can I just put in new brake pads and I should be OK?
I may want to buy a micrometer and check the thickness. Can this be done through the wheels, or do they have to come off?
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01-20-2013, 06:35 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Guelph, ON
Posts: 981
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Standard wear limit is 2mm from new... so if the edge is just minimal, break the lip with a small grinding pad... and run another set of pads. Make sure you inspect both sides of the rotor as sometimes the outside looks good and the inside is bad. A good rule on these cars is 2 sets of pads for every rotor (but in the end it all depends on your driving habits)... and if you have to replace one rotor... always change them in pairs (both front or both rear).
I think the wear limits for the 986 S is 28mm F/26mm R and the 986 Standard is 22mm F/16mm R.
Hope that helps
H
http://pcars.prophpbb.com/
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Previously owned:
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Last edited by Heiko; 01-20-2013 at 06:37 PM.
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01-20-2013, 06:36 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NY/NJ
Posts: 195
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What happens if I just put the new pads in there, and leave the minimal lip?
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01-20-2013, 06:40 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Guelph, ON
Posts: 981
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The pad will take a while to adapt to the previous wear contour which has formed into the rotor.... if you leave the lip it will probably sound rough until the lip on the rotor has worn the pad down enough to fit - basically harmless, but for the amount of work, I would just take them off and go over them lightly to take the edge off.
H
http://pcars.prophpbb.com
__________________
_________________________________________
Previously owned:
2000 Boxster S 3.2 Ocean Blue / 1974 911 Targa Silver
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01-21-2013, 11:31 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NY/NJ
Posts: 195
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I picked up a micrometer, and I'm not sure if the lip is affecting the measurement, but I got around 22.6mm measurements on the front, which seems to be right around the minimum wear.
So it looks like I'm going to go with pads and rotors. When doing it, what do you do first? The diys are a little vague on this - do you first switch out the rotor, and then the pads? Or vice versa?
I'm getting Textar pads and Zimmerman coated rotors. Seems pretty close to OEM for the cost, what do you guys think? I thought about the cheaper mintex pads and balo rotors, but I'm not sure if they are as good.
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01-21-2013, 11:36 AM
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#7
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Certified Boxster Addict
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 7,669
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Here is the order that I use: Remove the old pads. Then remove the caliper. Then replace the rotor. Replace caliper. Install new pads.
Textar pads and Z rotors are a great OEM replacement.
__________________
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01-21-2013, 11:37 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Little Switzerland, north carolina
Posts: 551
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I use textar and zimmerman and have had great results. I am seriously thinking about ceramic pads the next time though for the lower dust output.
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01-21-2013, 11:49 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Miami florida
Posts: 1,591
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Mintex pads are very good. They have a higher coefficient of friction than the very expensive Brembo pads, little dust and are the cheapest of the OEM at a little less than $70.
__________________
Current car
2000 Boxster 2.7l red/black
Previous cars
1973 Opel Manta
1969(?) Fiat 850 Convertible
1979 Lancia Beta Coupe
1981 Alfa Romeo GTV 6
1985 Alfa Romeo Graduate
1985 Porsche 944
1989 Porsche 944
1981 Triumph TR7
1989 (?) Alfa Romeo Milano
1993 Saab 9000
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01-21-2013, 12:45 PM
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#10
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1999 base
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 1,617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thstone
Here is the order that I use: Remove the old pads. Then remove the caliper. Then replace the rotor. Replace caliper. Install new pads.
Textar pads and Z rotors are a great OEM replacement.
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was thinking about going with the same setup.
any recombination of were to buy?
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01-21-2013, 02:33 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NY/NJ
Posts: 195
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I had read that some Mintex pads did not have the opening for the brake wear sensors - do the ones that Pelican sells have this, or was that just an older version of the pads?
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01-22-2013, 05:32 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,266
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I put Balo rotors and Mintex pads on my 2000S with no problems. I recommend replacing rotors when the car has over 60K miles on it.
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02-01-2013, 01:29 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NY/NJ
Posts: 195
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I put the balo rotors and Mintex pads on the front, but they are making a lot of noise when coming to a stop.
is this normal on new pads and rotors? Or is there something amiss? No anti squeal was used.
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02-01-2013, 06:40 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NY/NJ
Posts: 195
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I just came back from a drive, and did a few hard brakes to see if it would help - but nope, a lot of noise still under 15mph.
Basically, is it normal and will it go away once the pads form to the rotor, or is this something that needs to be done again with some anti squeal or something?
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02-01-2013, 06:51 PM
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#15
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Autobahn Glanz
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rondocap
I just came back from a drive, and did a few hard brakes to see if it would help - but nope, a lot of noise still under 15mph.
Basically, is it normal and will it go away once the pads form to the rotor, or is this something that needs to be done again with some anti squeal or something?
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You should not be having this problem. Balo's rock and Mintex work just fine...though dusty compare to Akebono. I'll get the name of the brake lube I use, it works fine. I used some stuff once that was supposedly the best and it squealed at stop lights (very embarrassing). I'll get both brands in the morning and update you.
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02-01-2013, 06:54 PM
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#16
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Track rat
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southern ID
Posts: 3,701
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Did you bed your pads? This is the final step when installing new front brakes.
-| Mintex Pads |- from New Dimensions -
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02-01-2013, 06:58 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NY/NJ
Posts: 195
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I did try tonight to "bed them". I read somewhere else though to brake fairly hard from 60mph, and I did that a few times. That article said to brake moderately from 40mph. I hope I didn't mess anything up!
After my attempt, squeal seemed to get better for a few minutes but then came back as bad as before. Maybe I just need a couple more good stops, I'll try the moderate from 40 to 5mph.
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02-01-2013, 07:06 PM
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#18
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Autobahn Glanz
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rondocap
I did try tonight to "bed them". I read somewhere else though to brake fairly hard from 60mph, and I did that a few times. That article said to brake moderately from 40mph. I hope I didn't mess anything up!
After my attempt, squeal seemed to get better for a few minutes but then came back as bad as before. Maybe I just need a couple more good stops, I'll try the moderate from 40 to 5mph.
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You didn't mess things up. If you went to 60, hit them hard down to 5mph and did it again 2 more times you should have started to smell the pads. You did it right, it wouldn't be the reason for low speed squealing. You just need to use the right lube and put enough on. You'll see once you figure this out you be an expert at it, I know I had to learn the hard way too.
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02-01-2013, 07:08 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NY/NJ
Posts: 195
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I have some of that CRC Anti-brake Squeal stuff, think that'll do the trick? I may try to drive on them for 300-400 miles and see if it gets better, if not I'll add it.
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