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People, don’t make this more complicated than it really is.
You need to relieve the fuel pressure; this can be done by attaching a gauge with a pressure relief setup to the test port, it can also be accomplished by pulling the fuel pump fuse or relay while the car is idling. As others have noted, get everything you don’t need out of the way, undoing the bracket with the other lines and pulling them (gently) to one side with a bungee cord does wonders in this department. You need a container with a lot of surface area to catch any drips; a bucket is the wrong choice. A large, flat pan or tray, like a darkroom developer tray, is perfect. In the shop, we use a fluid catch system that is over 36 inches across, lots of surface to catch any drips or spurts, easy to dump and clean when you are done.
Wear shop gloves; we prefer nitrile over latex due to allergy’s and the fact the nitrile gloves are more chemical resistant, and are available with a textured surface for grip. Put on the gloves when you are ready to pull the filter, take them off and toss them when you are finished; absolutely no gas smell on your otherwise clean hands.
While changing the fuel filter is easier on a lift, as is just about anything else, it can still be done on the ground if you approach it in the correct manner.
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“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
Last edited by JFP in PA; 12-27-2012 at 05:46 PM.
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2001 Porsche 986 Boxster
Hybrid Mode
