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Old 08-15-2011, 02:03 PM   #1
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Sorry to not be posting something contributing to the resolution, but I have to ask just for my own understanding...are you saying that the car was idling for 4 hours?
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Old 08-15-2011, 03:32 PM   #2
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Over Drive, I meant engine not running, sitting quietly, not "idling". Initially I assumed the sound was from oil draining and it maybe it was just lifter chatter at first.

JFP, so I don't have to give up hope!

I found the same picture from pelican and checked the wiring, but I wasn't sure if the sensor was why no dev bank 2 on Durametric.

So it is that sensor that would send out the cam 2 deviation, meaning that is what I should do now, replace that sensor? And its easy too since it is bank 2 right behind the driver seat side of the engine?? Please say yes, that it will at least spare me for now dropping my engine!
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Old 08-15-2011, 06:50 PM   #3
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The way the system works is the crank position sensor data is compared to the individual cam position sensors, and the “deviation” value is determined by an algorithm in the DME mathematically. The readout value is how far it is off “ideal”.

There are two cam position sensors, one on each bank, and I believe they are interchangeable, as well as being testable (they are a simple Hall Effect sensor that generates a signal when a ferrous alloy shutter passes nearby). You should be able to bench test the suspect, or swap them around to see if the reverse occurs. They cost between $70 and $150 each, aftermarket vs. OEM.
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:14 PM   #4
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DUDE JFP YOU ROCK! I DOnt have to drop my engine yet, all is not lost, yet...

I REALLY did not want to dive in and drop this engine.. Not ready to tackle that yet...

And do you think that the sensor being out would cause the rattle at start up? Prior I was also getting mediocre starts in first, hesitation, and mediocre GPM. I have the hope that this sensor was dying and this will be the solution. Lets hope anyway.

You definatley deserve a smiley flat six!


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Old 08-15-2011, 07:18 PM   #5
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One more really DUM question(Yes I spelled it D U M on purpose). Is left side of the car when you face it from front or back? In other words is driver side left or right?

Bank 2 is driver side of car? aka Driver side is Left? or right Bank? OIver thinking this...?
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:54 AM   #6
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Ok, left and right in a car is always from the driver’s position (e.g.: left is his left). Bank one is the passenger’s side, cylinders 1-3.

I really do not think a bad sensor is making the noise, more likely it is a worn tensioner or chain paddle.
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:36 AM   #7
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That has been the strange thing, the noise started a while back, and she ran ok with the exeption of slightly lugging out of first if I didn't heavy foot the peddle. Then as I was pulling out my drive, it started running really rough and threw the Flashing CEL.
Would this be symtomatic of a bad sensor? or tensioner/ paddle?

As you know we read with the ELM unit and got bank 2 cyl misfires. So I have changd out the tensioner on the driver side (I new which side was Bank 2, just didn't know left from right heh). The car actually runs slightly better than before and the CEL stil flashes and now I know it is probably the sensor throwing the CEL.

I will laugh maniacally if the tensioner on bank 1 is the one going bad, and it was the sensor throwing codes for bank 2.

Would a worn tensioner paddle throw a code?

I have a new sensor coming in this afternoon.
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