Brake Rotor Replacement

[hvangeel]

I am doing about six track days per year. I run Pagid Yellow RS29 pads. My stock rotors have developed little cracks around the cross-drilled holes, so I am looking at slotted rotors. However, I seem to overheat my brakes more than others and boil the brake fluid (Motul RBF600, just had the system pressurized by Porsche and they found no leaks), so maybe the cross-drilled and slotted rotors may be more suitable.
I am looking for your experiences/recommendations. Has anybody used R1 Concepts? http://www.r1concepts.com/ I noticed that they have two different lines of rotors. Any other companies out there?

[Topless]

Welcome to the club.

This weekend my brother and I completed a two day time trial at Buttonwillow in unusually cool conditions and both our front rotors are really warped when hot. My car has Balo rotors and his are OEM but they are equally thrashed. I doubt they could be turned out because the serious judder only happens after lap 2 (hot). It gets so bad that in heavy braking zones I can barely hang on to the car. Any good solutions for better rotors/better heat management for the fronts? We are running BSX cars that are just class legal weight (2950) with pagid yellow pads and SRF fluid. No noticable fade issues but really rough rotor judder under heavy braking as the session progresses. We do basic brake cool down lap and no E-brakes on track days.

Pagid yellows can sure take the heat but may be a poor match for our rotors. The veteran track guys I recently talked to use OEM/Zimmerman rotors with Raybestos ST-43 pads. They tell me it is a good working combination for track use but don't underestimate the importance of your cool down lap to get brake temps down B4 bringing her to the pits. Adding 996GT3 front brake ducts may also help. Any other ideas?

[Perfectlap]

^ Did you read the article in Excellence about the BSX and BSR? Maybe this is a good question for the author. Maybe they'll print your question.

[hvangeel]

@Perfectlap - You just reminded me that I have not received the Excellence Magazine since I moved - I should probably change my address. So no, I have not read the article and I am looking for a quick decision so I can install them before my next event.
@Topless - I am not sure what your recommendation is but I read it as ' buy the cheapest ones because they won't last anyway'. BTW - I did install the GT3 brake ducts.

[Topless]

Originally Posted by hvangeel

@Topless - I am not sure what your recommendation is but I read it as ' buy the cheapest ones because they won't last anyway'. BTW - I did install the GT3 brake ducts.

I still have more questions than answers. My Balo OEM quality rotors were dirt cheap at around $40 ea. Zimmerman are OEM quality for around $80 ea. and many Boxster drivers say they are better than Balo. Genuine Porsche rotors are around $150 ea. I got 17 track days on the Balos since last May and they were pretty good until this weekend so I shouldn't complain too loudly. The guys I know who have tried the high tech/ high$$/slotted/crossdrilled aftermarket specials have complained about cracks forming the first weekend out. I have no personal experience with them but brake safety is a biggie and cracks are bad news.

I guess my preliminary recommendation is to buy OEM quality and really "Sunday cruise" your cool down lap. Experiment with pad combinations to find the right setup for you.

[hvangeel]

Here's another company that somebody recommended to me:

http://www.frozenrotors.com/

Apparently they are expensive but last a long time. Has anybody used them?

[Mike_Yi]

I would think slotted and/or drilled rotors would make the problem worse rather than better. You want more metal to hold and disperse the heat rather than less metal.

[hvangeel]

I thought the cross-drilled holes' purpose was to ventilate the brakes?

[sdharmani]

OEMs cross drill to save weight ... cooling happens through the gap between the two sides of the rotor.

Originally Posted by hvangeel

I thought the cross-drilled holes' purpose was to ventilate the brakes?

[ekam]

Go for 2-piece rotors from either GiroDisc (requires 18"+ wheels) or PFC (if you want to retain OEM size).

[JTP]

Originally Posted by sdharmani

OEMs cross drill to save weight ... cooling happens through the gap between the two sides of the rotor.

Weight savings is minimal. Brake pads out-gas under heavy braking and cross drilling allows those gases to escape so the pad maintains contact with the disc. Modern brake pads out gas much less than before so it's not as much an issue but the performance image of drilled rotors sells. The downside to drilled rotors are they eat up pads quicker and if subject to repeated heavy braking, cracks can emanate from the holes.

[knicksplayer]

Hi everyone,

I have my break/break wear signal on and it looks like the problem is coming from the brake rotors. Does anyone know how much this should cost me roughly (with labor) if I need to change all 4 on my 02 boxster?

Thanks for your help!

[Lobo1186]

If your brake wear indicator is on, then it is not for your rotors but your pads. You can take a flashlight and check all the pad thicknesses easily without taking the wheels off.

However, the case could be that you need new rotors too. The brake wear sensors however, are on the pads.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by ekam

Go for 2-piece rotors from either GiroDisc (requires 18"+ wheels) or PFC (if you want to retain OEM size).

ekam~
I plan on using PFC's two-piece rotor when the time comes for new rotors. Do you have any first-hand experience with them? Or know of anyone who does other than random Internet folk?
Thanks.

[knicksplayer]

Originally Posted by Lobo1186

If your brake wear indicator is on, then it is not for your rotors but your pads. You can take a flashlight and check all the pad thicknesses easily without taking the wheels off.

However, the case could be that you need new rotors too. The brake wear sensors however, are on the pads.

I have two different indicators on...brake wear indicator and brake indicator. The pads were all changed but I'm thinking maybe the front sensors weren't changed and might cause the break wear signal to turn on? No need for a computer reset after you change your pads for the signal to go away right?

An employee from auto parts told my my rotors needed changing.

[Lobo1186]

they may have not put in new sensors or not correctly. Either way, the light will turn off once it is fixed. So the brake place you went to, replaced the pads and not rotors?

that is strange.

but yes they will go away once the sensors are replaced.

[Oaktown 986]

I'm currently putting Zimmerman rotors in back. Anyone know the size of those hex/torx bolts holding the calipers in place?

Thanks

[thstone]

Originally Posted by Oaktown 986

I'm currently putting Zimmerman rotors in back. Anyone know the size of those hex/torx bolts holding the calipers in place?

Should be a 10mm hex head bolt. Torque to 63 ft-lbs on re-installation. Some people say that the caliper bolts are one-time use only and should be replaced each time they are removed.

[Oaktown 986]

Originally Posted by thstone

Should be a 10mm hex head bolt. Torque to 63 ft-lbs on re-installation. Some people say that the caliper bolts are one-time use only and should be replaced each time they are removed.

Ok, now I'm trying to put the calipers pistons back into the caliper enough to fit the new pads in. What's the recommended method? C clamp and wood or wood and mallet like in the pelican article? My mechanic buddy back east said that doesn't seem to be a wise method...

[thstone]

I always use a big c-clamp and a slice of wood. Go slow and watch the brake reservoir so it doesn't overflow. Works like a charm.