Brake Rotor Replacement
I am doing about six track days per year. I run Pagid Yellow RS29 pads. My stock rotors have developed little cracks around the cross-drilled holes, so I am looking at slotted rotors. However, I seem to overheat my brakes more than others and boil the brake fluid (Motul RBF600, just had the system pressurized by Porsche and they found no leaks), so maybe the cross-drilled and slotted rotors may be more suitable.
I am looking for your experiences/recommendations. Has anybody used R1 Concepts? http://www.r1concepts.com/ I noticed that they have two different lines of rotors. Any other companies out there? |
Welcome to the club.
This weekend my brother and I completed a two day time trial at Buttonwillow in unusually cool conditions and both our front rotors are really warped when hot. My car has Balo rotors and his are OEM but they are equally thrashed. I doubt they could be turned out because the serious judder only happens after lap 2 (hot). It gets so bad that in heavy braking zones I can barely hang on to the car. Any good solutions for better rotors/better heat management for the fronts? We are running BSX cars that are just class legal weight (2950) with pagid yellow pads and SRF fluid. No noticable fade issues but really rough rotor judder under heavy braking as the session progresses. We do basic brake cool down lap and no E-brakes on track days. Pagid yellows can sure take the heat but may be a poor match for our rotors. The veteran track guys I recently talked to use OEM/Zimmerman rotors with Raybestos ST-43 pads. They tell me it is a good working combination for track use but don't underestimate the importance of your cool down lap to get brake temps down B4 bringing her to the pits. Adding 996GT3 front brake ducts may also help. Any other ideas? |
^ Did you read the article in Excellence about the BSX and BSR? Maybe this is a good question for the author. Maybe they'll print your question.
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@Perfectlap - You just reminded me that I have not received the Excellence Magazine since I moved - I should probably change my address. So no, I have not read the article and I am looking for a quick decision so I can install them before my next event.
@Topless - I am not sure what your recommendation is but I read it as ' buy the cheapest ones because they won't last anyway'. BTW - I did install the GT3 brake ducts. |
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I guess my preliminary recommendation is to buy OEM quality and really "Sunday cruise" your cool down lap. Experiment with pad combinations to find the right setup for you. |
Here's another company that somebody recommended to me:
http://www.frozenrotors.com/ Apparently they are expensive but last a long time. Has anybody used them? |
I would think slotted and/or drilled rotors would make the problem worse rather than better. You want more metal to hold and disperse the heat rather than less metal.
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I thought the cross-drilled holes' purpose was to ventilate the brakes?
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cross drilled make the rotor lighter
OEMs cross drill to save weight ... cooling happens through the gap between the two sides of the rotor.
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Go for 2-piece rotors from either GiroDisc (requires 18"+ wheels) or PFC (if you want to retain OEM size).
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Brake rotor replacement cost?
Hi everyone,
I have my break/break wear signal on and it looks like the problem is coming from the brake rotors. Does anyone know how much this should cost me roughly (with labor) if I need to change all 4 on my 02 boxster? Thanks for your help! |
If your brake wear indicator is on, then it is not for your rotors but your pads. You can take a flashlight and check all the pad thicknesses easily without taking the wheels off.
However, the case could be that you need new rotors too. The brake wear sensors however, are on the pads. |
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I plan on using PFC's two-piece rotor when the time comes for new rotors. Do you have any first-hand experience with them? Or know of anyone who does other than random Internet folk? Thanks. |
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An employee from auto parts told my my rotors needed changing. |
they may have not put in new sensors or not correctly. Either way, the light will turn off once it is fixed. So the brake place you went to, replaced the pads and not rotors?
that is strange. but yes they will go away once the sensors are replaced. |
I'm currently putting Zimmerman rotors in back. Anyone know the size of those hex/torx bolts holding the calipers in place?
Thanks |
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I always use a big c-clamp and a slice of wood. Go slow and watch the brake reservoir so it doesn't overflow. Works like a charm.
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