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Old 02-22-2009, 11:25 PM   #1
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o2 sensor + idle air control

I bought a 2000 boxster s a couple months ago and it is having minor problems. I have the durametric which gives me codes and lets me reset. The guy I bought it from said that o2 sensor will come on, but he just reset it to make it go away since he didnt want to buy another one.

The first time I checked the codes since the CEL came on, I noticed that the o2 sensor error (p1115) was there alongside another one labeled idle air control system (p0507). I spoke to the guy I bought it from and he said he didn't know about the p0507 error.

They are both related to the air system and I was thinking they were related. Is it possible that if I fix the o2 sensor, then the other one will go away?

I found one really cheap here but don't know if it is going to be difficult to install since the other end doesn't match what the oem end looks like.

http://www2.partstrain.com/store/?N=0&Nr=AND(make:Porsche,model:Boxster,year:2007,brand: Replacement,sku:USOS-2000,part:Oxygen+Sensor)&ptc=S1171391678W45d204bec356b

Any advice would be appreciated.

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Old 02-28-2009, 03:48 PM   #2
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bump


Today I started my car and it was puttering at first, then right as it sounded like it was going to stall, the computer kicked in and put it at about 1000rpm. This is definitely not normal so I want to know what you guys think as to what the culprit could be. I also hooked my computer up to check the codes again and they are gone. The idle is still weird though. I'm guessing that the CEL will pop back on soon.
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Old 02-28-2009, 05:34 PM   #3
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The P1115 fix

is probably a $95 Bosch sensor (from www.************************************************************. Part # 15182 Oxygen Sensor - OE Type Before Catalyst) passenger side of a US car nearest the engine though it can also be a wiring problem.

Any exhaust place can change it for you...charge should be about $50 as it takes 10 minutes max once the exhaust system has cooled down and you drive it onto the lift. Or an easy DIY if you can get under the car safely.

I'm having a friendly tire place swap one of mine (just because they have a lift) with that part next week. And the dealer is 35 miles away.

Don't know if that will fix the 507 code.

P0507 Idle speed too high can be caused by the throttle valve sticking or a leak in the air intake system per the DME docs.

Last edited by mikefocke; 02-28-2009 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 02-28-2009, 06:41 PM   #4
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partstrain.com has them for 28 bucks. Will this work? How do I get the right end for the wires.
http://www2.partstrain.com/store/?N=11567+1698+4294965129+11921+4294967260
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Old 03-01-2009, 10:12 AM   #5
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There are 4 price points

1. The Porsche branded one with the right wires. Plugs in.
2. The Bosch one that is made by the people who sell the part to Porsche and which has the right characteristics and the right wires. Plugs in.
3. The universal Bosch one that has the right characteristics but you must fashion the wire connections for it (and don't solder them).
4. Generic ones...you take your chances...you must fashion the wires. These are the $28 ones...Walker brand usually.

Since #1 differs from #2 only in markup, I choose #2. And I save on labor by doing it myself or having a muffler shop or tire shop do the install for $50. Porsche dealer wants $550 total. I can get it done with the exact same part for $150 total. That is saving enough for me.

#3 has too much wiring risk. Bosch has million dollar wire connection machines and I figure I'm not gonna duplicate their quality of work on my workbench.

#4 has too much risk of not giving the right signal (and multiple mechanics I respect have warned me against them (and they have no financial stake in what I select because they aren't going to sell me the part and they know that) though you will find people on the web who say they have used them successfully).

IMHO. Your choice.
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Old 03-02-2009, 02:50 AM   #6
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Just so I dont get the wrong side...

The code I got was for P1115 which is the os2 ahead of the catalytic converter for bank 1 (which I'm guessing is cyl 1-3)

Are all of these adjectives referring to the same o2 sensor position?

in front
ahead
precatalyst

part #15182 looks like it would be that (above)

part# 15183 looks like it be would described below

rear
behind
postcatalyst

I don't really see why the price difference is so much for the other position.
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Old 03-03-2009, 02:27 AM   #7
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Yesterday I ordered 4 Universal O2 sensors from partstrain.com. Part # USOS-2000. They are each about 28 bucks. I saw that there was a coupon code that expired the day before and I called up to make the order, and they even honored the coupon. In total, it cost me $115 including $15 shipping.

I also placed an order with Cosmic LED who sold posi-lock connectors. They were in packages of four so I got four of them. With shipping, it was $14 bucks (lots of fours there ) Not bad for 2-3 day shipping.

Before placing the order with cosmic, I called up Bosch to ask what guage wire is used in their sensors. I figure that would be a good foundation in determing what to expect. He told me 18 so I bought the posi-lock connectors for that size. It will fit anything from 18-24 which is good since I heard from another member (thanks derb) that it's 24 guage. Either way I can't lose.


Some of my sources for this are below:

http://www.boschautoparts.com/NR/rdonlyres/3BB8A8FA-C707-4333-9098-727C01AF4B7D/0/OxygenSensorInstall.pdf


http://www.posi-lock.com/lock2.html


(I got the red one. Part number PL1824)

I will also probably get some heat shrink but I can pick that up at any hardware store.

Sensors come in 4-7 days so I will report back when I get em.

Last edited by Viper5; 03-03-2009 at 02:32 AM.
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Old 03-03-2009, 05:18 AM   #8
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I'm trying to get the old sensor out today and I feel like I'm gonna break something. Does it just pull out or is there some type of mechanism holding it together? I know the part that connects to the cat can be removed using a just a 22mm wrench.

I'm also confused about the pre and post catalyst positions. My error says that it's the sensor ahead of the catalytic converter for bank 1. I see two. One closer to the three pipes from the engine manifold, and another further down (closer to the final exhaust pipe out the back). I don't know which one to replace.

Ahead of the catalytic converter and precatalyst (like it says in service manual) should match, but they seem contradictory.
Does ahead mean precatalyst or postcatalyst?

Last edited by Viper5; 03-03-2009 at 06:23 AM.
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:28 PM   #9
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I installed all 4 sensors last week using posilock connectors PL1824 and they seem to be working, however my post-catalytic converter o2 sensor for the left side is faulty. I'm returning it for a replacement. They are very simple to install using the connectors and you don't even have to take apart any pieces underneath the car to access any of them. You just need a 22mm open end wrench and you're good to go. Also, I found out you have to push on the piece sticking out inward towards the sensor. It was hard getting them off at first but it eventually came out.

Furthermore, I would definitely recommend this procedure since it is very simple and cheap. I spent a total of $115 for all 4 sensors at partstrain.com with a coupon code and even still it would only have been $125 without it. Thanks for the help.

Last edited by Viper5; 03-10-2009 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 04-05-2009, 06:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefocke
1. The Porsche branded one with the right wires. Plugs in.
2. The Bosch one that is made by the people who sell the part to Porsche and which has the right characteristics and the right wires. Plugs in.
3. The universal Bosch one that has the right characteristics but you must fashion the wire connections for it (and don't solder them).
4. Generic ones...you take your chances...you must fashion the wires. These are the $28 ones...Walker brand usually.

Since #1 differs from #2 only in markup, I choose #2. And I save on labor by doing it myself or having a muffler shop or tire shop do the install for $50. Porsche dealer wants $550 total. I can get it done with the exact same part for $150 total. That is saving enough for me.

#3 has too much wiring risk. Bosch has million dollar wire connection machines and I figure I'm not gonna duplicate their quality of work on my workbench.

#4 has too much risk of not giving the right signal (and multiple mechanics I respect have warned me against them (and they have no financial stake in what I select because they aren't going to sell me the part and they know that) though you will find people on the web who say they have used them successfully).

IMHO. Your choice.
thank you for that explanation!

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